Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
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No.
You have to complete the circuit. You go from fuses (leg with the led) to PFET Drain (middle leg).
Well hell, I screwed something up. Got the parts for an OKR 10 mod, put it all together and the cap blew as soon as I put in the batts. I cut it out and tried it again. Fires constantly whether the button is pressed or not. Not sure what I did wrong, maybe got something too hot soldering.
The caps will pop if they are in backwards if you use the orange ones. They have a red mark for positive. I'm not sure about the other type of caps though. I'm not sure about the constant firing. I've never built an OKR. But I've had caps pop and a raptor auto fire a wickless build at over 8 volts. Let me just say neither one was very pleasent.
Ah. Didn't realize they had polarity. As far as the auto fire, I have no idea what I did. I rebuilt the switch circuit thinking the zener melted but same result. Have it working with a NC sw to ground but have no low volt protection.
Is there a diagram anywhere do to it without the PFET? I broke mine trying to disassemble and reassemble to get it to fit in the box...
Only using this box as a prototype anyways to make sure I can get it to work, before building my next one which will include the LED, screen, and on/off switch.
Only using this box as a prototype anyways to make sure I can get it to work, before building my next one which will include the LED, screen, and on/off switch.
5.3 and 6 for what? Volt to atty? Or volts in batteries? Either way something doesnt sound right.
Doesn't matter.
I give up.
....ed up the PFET, and the chip both trying to clean everything up and shorten the runs so it would all fit, so I give up. I'll buy one from somebody and retry my own when I've got the money to be wasting.
Was able to solder a wire where I busted off the pin, so going to rewire it all and see if it works. Any ideas on how exactly to bypass the pfet, led, and on/off switch?
Just don't include those parts and wire Vin directly to one side of the fuse. If you're not using a fuse either, wire Vin directly to the batt + contact on the battery holder.
Thanks a lot.I reinstalled the cap, making careful note of polarity lol. Worked great. Figured out what I did wrong on the switch, I had too many diagrams and got two mixed up. Went back through it and found I hooked the pulldown resistor to the wrong spot. All wired up and works great, just need to epoxy it into the box. I was even able to fit it into the G box. I have no idea how you can fit the raptor in there. I could barely fit the OKR. When I get my raptors they are going into a B box, hopefully with 26650s. I think I'll be able to fit it in there.
Jeepster67, I posted a pic of my raptor box (uses 26650s) on page 37 in a B box (click image to make it larger). It's the build with pfet and nfet circuitry. No master switch. No voltage display. The problem with 26650s is that there are no commercially made battery holders, you have to McGyver something together yourself. I used pieces of copperless circuit board material and keystone battery clips.
I haven't vaped with anything else than my box for the last two weeks and I don't need a voltage display, I'm familiar how the box fires. I can tell when my batteries are getting weaker just by atty firing sound, vapor production and taste. My sony 26650s run the box well, got me a new pair of orange mnke 30a-60a peak (supposedly) 26650 and boy, those were LIMP. I mean useless. They just don't want to fire at all... just a little sizzle at any voltage setting. Yesterday I got me a pair of black KeepPower 26650 50A ultra high drain 4400mAh batts and they've been great for the last 8 hours. (full raptor voltage, .35ohmish coil) They might be better than my sonys, too early to tell.
I haven't vaped with anything else than my box for the last two weeks and I don't need a voltage display, I'm familiar how the box fires. I can tell when my batteries are getting weaker just by atty firing sound, vapor production and taste. My sony 26650s run the box well, got me a new pair of orange mnke 30a-60a peak (supposedly) 26650 and boy, those were LIMP. I mean useless. They just don't want to fire at all... just a little sizzle at any voltage setting. Yesterday I got me a pair of black KeepPower 26650 50A ultra high drain 4400mAh batts and they've been great for the last 8 hours. (full raptor voltage, .35ohmish coil) They might be better than my sonys, too early to tell.
That's what I'm doing lol. I have some stripboard that I'm using and have the clips on the way. Here are the pieces cut and test fitted. I was planning on putting the nfet and 47k res in the little cavity at the bottom.
That's interesting. I was hoping to use the MNKEs for the extra run time. I have both Sony and MNKE and will see if I have the same result.
That's hot! I think i'm probably going to top out at the 80 watt area. Maybe with different builds but I have trouble getting it to wick fast enough at higher wattage.
Raptor with 1590G is doable.
Just have to do some creative space management and dremeling the sides a bit.
1550P is also doable but must really do some creative packing and dremeling the case and also remove the corner posts leaving just a lip for the magnets.
What also helps is snipping the Raptor pins flush with the edge of the board and using strap fuses and a D-Pak size P-FET and stacking all on the board.
My parts for the 1590G build - 1550P is the same except for the fire switch...
Just have to do some creative space management and dremeling the sides a bit.
1550P is also doable but must really do some creative packing and dremeling the case and also remove the corner posts leaving just a lip for the magnets.
What also helps is snipping the Raptor pins flush with the edge of the board and using strap fuses and a D-Pak size P-FET and stacking all on the board.
My parts for the 1590G build - 1550P is the same except for the fire switch...
Wow, those look nice, very tidy. That 1550P box is incredible, lots of trimming to get it in there.
I didn't think about narrowing the battery holder and didn't notch my post so maybe I will be able to squeeze it in.
Thanks for the pics, they were very inspirational.
I didn't think about narrowing the battery holder and didn't notch my post so maybe I will be able to squeeze it in.
Thanks for the pics, they were very inspirational.
What are you guys doing about the aluminum box's slanted sides, top, and bottom. It personally bugs me how the atty is crooked and when you stand it up it really looks crooked. I used to sand mine down but stopped and switched back to abs cause it was too time consuming with sand paper
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I use a heavy duty cut-off wheel no. 420 with the dremel and remove about a half mm or so from the back half of the underside of the FDV 22mm washer. Then sand the underside of the washer smooth and even using 100 grit sandpaper.
I lost 3 washers
before I got the hang of it and got the results I wanted.
Hammond 1590G - before on the left, after on the right...
Hammond 1550P - before on the left, after on the right...
I lost 3 washers
before I got the hang of it and got the results I wanted. Hammond 1590G - before on the left, after on the right...
Hammond 1550P - before on the left, after on the right...
I use a heavy duty cut-off wheel no. 420 with the dremel and remove about a half mm or so from the back half of the underside of the FDV 22mm washer. Then sand the underside of the washer smooth and even using 100 grit sandpaper.
I lost 3 washers
Hammond 1590G - before on the left, after on the right...
Hammond 1550P - before on the left, after on the right...
I see. Nice. U really do have pics of just about everything lol
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