Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...

[juggalofisher88]

Thanks
Just ordered everything i needed from mouser (everything was in stock! 150 some chips left though)
I ommited the battery holder, enclosure, and on-off-on switch though as my monies was limited.
Going to order them a different paycheck along with the screen and a master switch. Also just ran out of solder... And wire... So gotta get those too, and heatshrink crap lol
So it might be awhile longer before i can try it

 

[Joshleeman]

Any tips or ideas as to how I can get a more flush look for my 510 on a 1590B. The "Hammond lean" is like major, and I'm not a super ocd kind of guy it's just waaaaay crooked. I dont have major power tools, no dremel or beltsander. Using fdv spring 510 and I'm not opposed to spending a few bucks on a fix but it certainly doesnt bother me enough to spend a few hundred on tools I'll only use once. Thanks everyone for your help, what a fun project this has turned out to be!!!

 

[KurrptSenate]

get a file, use a vice or clamp, then file off enough to counteract the slope of the hammond enclosure

 

[rhelton]

This is a really great video on making a OKR mod and he show's how to square up a hammond box.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QRPTuwohlLE

 

[Tcar]

OK, need some input here. It's been a few years since high school electronics class, but I think I can do this build wise. . . Raptor is on the way and when it comes in I'd like to get cracking. Really wanna build this on a small board but direct connection may just have to do. . . . Looking at the "no idle current drain" circuit diagram for mamu's build using the P-FET and N-FET,what heck is the "on/off" pull down resistor? Is that the 4.7k ohm resistor that goes from pin3 to pin 5 or am I missing something?

 

[mamu]

done done and done woot!!

Avani 3D Raptor - 81mm x 58mm x 25mm.

Raptor 20A 120W
Input and output voltage display
Reverse polarity protection via externally added P-channel MOSFET
Input overcurrent protection via externally added PTC fuses
6v (loaded) low voltage cutoff via externally added zener diode

Case and voltmeter bezel printed on the Ultimaker 2. Case material is bronzefill and bezel material is ABS. After printing finishing for the case with maroon scotch brite (thanks Dino!), then fine steel wool, then 2 coats clear coat, then buffed with Barkeeper's Friend (thanks Nin!).

 

[BillsBerryDB3]

that is awesome! thats a nice form factor, any chance on selling just the case?

 

[mamu]

Thanks BillsBerry!

No - takes about 5 hours to print the case plus lid, then the case and lid need after printing finishing work. I'm not up to doing that to sell to others.

 

[BillsBerryDB3]

Then I'll settle for the 3d file...


That sucks it takes so much work. I've been looking for something small like that as my first mod build. I don't like the big boxes or even the flip box in the OP. I pocket carry all the time so smaller is def better haha

Thanks BillsBerry!

No - takes about 5 hours to print the case plus lid, then the case and lid need after printing finishing work. I'm not up to doing that to sell to others.

 

[sammiiclifford]

I look forward to using this as a guide.

 

[sammiiclifford]

Is there a layout of this in a normal box, with a macro USB charging port instead of using the dc charger?
(bare with me if I sound dumb, I'm new at this all)

 

[Joshleeman]

Hello everyone, so I have everything soldered together and was wondering if theres any tests I can do with a multimeter to make sure all my connections are solid and that I didnt screw up any parts while soldering before I put batteries in it?

 

[avpnut]

I had mentioned a while ago that i was working on something, i finally got around to finishing my prototype. I haven't seen anything quite like this so here it is:



I have yet to figure out how to post larger images in this forum so for larger ones go here: http://imgur.com/a/SfKJV#LZhHe7V

This is a prototype model of an E-Hookah i built. The finished model will have 4 available devices/tubes. I am developing them for a local vape shop. The hookah uses a raptor as the Mod and is attached to the 12v rail on a computer power supply via a XLR plug. I put it on the XLR connector so you can build different mods for this device. The xlr is wired to provide 12v or 5v power depending on which way it is wired. On the top there is a fat daddy vapes 510 as well as a standard 3.5mm stereo jack for the remote fire switch. the fire switch is wired to the raptor via a P-Fet so it does not need a rated switch. I have clear tubing going up to a PVC pipe handle and mouthpiece. It Works very well, the few People that have tried it love the relaxing cool vape that it provides. I have tried it with a few strong Hookah flavored e Juices and they taste just like a tobacco hookah.

Being that this is a prototype i am playing with a few thoughts.

Do i really need to have this able to use multiple devices or is the raptor powerful enough for anything atm? If i will only use the raptors i can do this a little different and build the raptors into the base with just the 510 and remote wire on the top of each device. Or i can keep the idea of multiple devices and just recess the boxes so they don't stick out so much....

Also if i build the raptors into the device i am debating on useing the 5v rail on the power supply to put a usb port or two on each side so people can charge their phones while they vape.... lol

 

[Joshleeman]

Wow that pretty cool thing u got goin on there, I think 120 watts is gonna be more than enough power for most people but Ive never used a hookah and since you say it's a cool vape who knows what ppl might be inclined to vape at. I wish I had the time, patience, tools, and knowledge to build stuff like that just for fun but my head about exploded when I first saw just the basic schematics of the different raptor builds and it's taken me a few weeks of reading, watching, and asking to finally completely understand whats going on there. Get that money while you can because China has finally realized our hunger for high powered regulated devices so the value of these raptors are gonna take a huge hit. It will still be much cheaper to build one for yourself but getting 200-300+ dollars for one aint gonna happen when someone can buy a 180 watt box for under 100.

 

[avpnut]

I know its gonna take a hit, the price for the full unit is gonna be up there but no where near what people are charging per raptor x4. that would be ludicrous.....
I will figure out the cost of building four raptor units for it plus the power supply and however the customer wants it to look within reason. I am not an artist by any means. This local vape shop is going for a campground type setting, so its going to be wooden and i am going to find reclaimed wood to give it an old feel. When i finish one of the big units i will post a pic, it will take a while though. I am hoping only a few weeks, but its gonna be a lot of work. I may get my friend that is a very good woodworker help me build the outside. I am looking for a possible way to get rid of the button, If i could get a auto fire pressure switch like the ones in the el-cheapo e-cig sticks (lol) that would be great. I have yet to figure out a way of doing it without screwing up the copious amount of airflow it has. I want to be able to use ANY atomizer on this including drippers. If anyone has a resource for this let me know.

Oh and i have to give credit to MAMU and this thread for the raptor design. Could not have done this without the help from here!!

 

[Joshleeman]

So I ran into what I think is an issue but I wanted to get some feedback on it. I got the pot thats pictured below and when I was going to mount it (epoxy it to inside of METAL case) I just realized that the metal connections are exposed and exactly where it was to sit flush. I'm trying to figure out what to do here, I thought to just cover it with a small piece of electrical tape and then epoxy but Im just picturing the tape unsticking as soon as pressure is put on it from above. Will coating the exposed pieces with liquid electrical tape and then epoxying it be safe and durable? Should I get another pot? What would you do? Thanks

 

[texanator]

put it inside shrink tubing and shrink it and the cut a small hole for the knob.

 

[avpnut]

Mistake post sorry

 

[mamu]

LOL at trusting the China mods to not only do what they are suppose to do, but trusting it to be accurate and safe. I've also seen where these mods are already falling apart and where attys are getting broken off in the connector. People keep forgetting you get what you pay for.

Do you think these souless bastids care anything about safety? We've already seen how unsafe and dangerous the DNA clone boards are. They don't care if you blow your face off they have their money.

No modder who builds quality regulated mods has to worry about their price point or are going to take a hit, whether it be DNA mods or Raptor mods.

...Oh and i have to give credit to MAMU and this thread for the raptor design. Could not have done this without the help from here!!

Welcome, avpnut! Looking forward to seeing how your project goes.

...I just realized that the metal connections are exposed and exactly where it was to sit flush.

I simply put a small piece of Kapton tape over the metal of the trimmer that will be in contact with the metal of the box, then epoxy in place.

 

[DrewB313]

I have to say Thank You to Mamu for the original wiring guide. I did end up using a different guide that I think I found inside this thread but you are the reason I felt confident in building one! I am now happily vaping on my Raptor and it is wonderful! My Mech mods are rarely used, even my DNA 30 and SX350 are starting to collect dust.