This smaller meter is 22.74 x 10.11
Look for the caliper pics on the ebay page.
Yours at shapeway is 23 x 14.5 this would be 23 x 10.5
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Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
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This smaller meter is 22.74 x 10.11
Look for the caliper pics on the ebay page.
Yours at shapeway is 23 x 14.5 this would be 23 x 10.5
I'm on my phone but I think the one you linked has 0.36" digits and the one I linked has 0.28" digits????
The link has this pic, but then farther down has another pic with a 14mm reading.
Global smallest, no shell
Dimensions: 24x11x9mm
Cutting Size:24x11mm
1.V18 DC2.5-30V two wires
2.V18 DC0-100V two wires
And in the pic they show a 3 wire.
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I have a bunch of the 24mm x 15mm just thought this 10.11mm would save us some room on the Raptor.
so guys i decided to build one of these for myself, finally finished it today but i seem to have a problem and need some help diagnosing it, everything works fine and dandy but when i adjust the potentiometer all the way up im only firing at 4.2 ish volts, but i can see on my volt meter that when i first fire it, it'll show 7v for a second then drop to 4 something. maybe i have a connection with a little high resistance? or is the board acting funny because i have a 2.5 ohm coil in it for now? thanks for the help guys
BJ I almost forgot.....but I remembered
Housing for 0.28" digit volt meter - https://www.shapeways.com/model/1736356/volt-meter-housing-0-28-quot-digit.html
Housing for 0.28" digit volt meter - https://www.shapeways.com/model/1736356/volt-meter-housing-0-28-quot-digit.html
Update: with using the on/off control pin on this Raptor board, there is no reverse polarity protection for the batts even with the fuses. The board is protected, but not the batts. Without using the on/off control pin, fuses protect the entire circuit including the batts, but the batts are not protected when using the on/off control pin.
Have tried various re-wiring. Have got it so there is reverse polarity protection for the batts, BUT not if the fire button is pressed. So that's no go.
Looking into wiring in a P-FET, so will update when I have done that. Have the P-FET on order (thanks to Craig for recommendation on the part number!).
In the meantime, pay attention to correctly insert the batts!
Have tried various re-wiring. Have got it so there is reverse polarity protection for the batts, BUT not if the fire button is pressed. So that's no go.
Looking into wiring in a P-FET, so will update when I have done that. Have the P-FET on order (thanks to Craig for recommendation on the part number!).
In the meantime, pay attention to correctly insert the batts!
Reverse polarity protection for the Raptor... tested and good to go with protecting the batts if put in backwards and with no adverse effect on the circuit - voltage drop under load is the same with and without the P-FET.
Wiring in a P-FET:
Part # SI7157DP (many thanks to Craig for recommending the appropriate P-FET to use for this board - the P-FET I had used for reverse polarity protection for the dna was no go with this board and I'd prob still be searching for the right one
many many thanks for sharing, Craig!!)
S: Vin
D: Batt +
G: Batt -
1. This is a teeny tiny smd part and needs mounted. I used a 3x4 piece of veroboard and removed areas of copper as shown below...
2. Solder the source (green wire), drain (red wire), and gate (black wire) on the veroboard by inserting the bare wire end from the underside of the veroboard in the appropriate edge hole and sliding the wire though to the top, apply flux to the bare wire end, then apply solder to the iron and swipe across the wire including the copper traces connected to that wire...
3. Position the P-FET in place, apply flux to all pins, then solder to the board - line up the gate pin (orient toward the black wire) and solder it first, then apply solder to the tip of the iron and swipe it across the 3 source pins (toward the green wire) making sure you don't solder the gate pin to the source pins, then apply solder to the iron and swipe it across the 4 drain pins (toward the red wire)... make sure the 3 source pins and the 4 drain pins have connecting solder and that the gate pin remains isolated from the source pins...
4. Insert shrink tube over the P-FET and apply heat...
Updated wiring for reverse polarity protection...
Wiring in a P-FET:
Part # SI7157DP (many thanks to Craig for recommending the appropriate P-FET to use for this board - the P-FET I had used for reverse polarity protection for the dna was no go with this board and I'd prob still be searching for the right one
many many thanks for sharing, Craig!!)S: Vin
D: Batt +
G: Batt -
1. This is a teeny tiny smd part and needs mounted. I used a 3x4 piece of veroboard and removed areas of copper as shown below...
2. Solder the source (green wire), drain (red wire), and gate (black wire) on the veroboard by inserting the bare wire end from the underside of the veroboard in the appropriate edge hole and sliding the wire though to the top, apply flux to the bare wire end, then apply solder to the iron and swipe across the wire including the copper traces connected to that wire...
3. Position the P-FET in place, apply flux to all pins, then solder to the board - line up the gate pin (orient toward the black wire) and solder it first, then apply solder to the tip of the iron and swipe it across the 3 source pins (toward the green wire) making sure you don't solder the gate pin to the source pins, then apply solder to the iron and swipe it across the 4 drain pins (toward the red wire)... make sure the 3 source pins and the 4 drain pins have connecting solder and that the gate pin remains isolated from the source pins...
4. Insert shrink tube over the P-FET and apply heat...
Updated wiring for reverse polarity protection...
So i think im going to attempt this here in the near future. But i have a couple questions. First off how safe is this. Primarily in regards with the batteries and over discharging. And second are there other battery options? Bc i dont care for this case and would like to use a lipo with onboard charging.
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This is mine with a 4200mAh 65C A Spec lipo. Have never been able to find a small balancing charger to install onboard. I use a charger that charges thru the balancing plug. The diode protects from over discharge and I use a 6.2v instead of the 5.6v for the lipos, with the .4v in the Raptor this gives me a 6.6v cutoff or 3.3v per cell.
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Interesting. Any more info on the "balancing port" and the charger? Im no master with electronics but i can follow instructions and modify as needed.
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Ok Mamu I would like to build something like this but I am not so schematically inclined, would you be able to draw up a circuit with a digital pot run off of dual tacts and an ohm checker?
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Breaktru has already done work with this and has a schematic for adding a digital pot in a couple of his modding threads at his forum.
Modding
Hi mamu, I finally got around to changing the the diode to the 6.2v. Working great for the lipo flat pack. Clic pic for video.
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