RBAs a nessosary for mods?
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IMO the best taste and flavor will come from an RDA, keep in mind you can also tailor your vape by the coil configuration/resistance/placement. Cloud chasing isn't just about getting to see big thick vapor, for me it is about density and warmth of flavor.
There are many great tank systems out there that are very easy to use that give a great vape for sure. I use them often especially for on the go but when I can I drip or use a Reo, no tank system can compare at least for the way I like to vape. Isn't the most convenient way to vape, for convenience I use a Nautilus Aspire, KFL+, PTmini2, or even an Evod tank. Really all depends on what you're looking for but as mentioned earlier you can absolutely use drippers, KFLs, etc. on vv/vw devices as long as you build your coils high enough. Most prefer to use mechs or a high wattage device like a DNA20/30 or something like a Duke to push their gear but again, all depends on how you vape.
Good news is there are a lot of choices. Bad news is there are a lot of choices...lol.
There are many great tank systems out there that are very easy to use that give a great vape for sure. I use them often especially for on the go but when I can I drip or use a Reo, no tank system can compare at least for the way I like to vape. Isn't the most convenient way to vape, for convenience I use a Nautilus Aspire, KFL+, PTmini2, or even an Evod tank. Really all depends on what you're looking for but as mentioned earlier you can absolutely use drippers, KFLs, etc. on vv/vw devices as long as you build your coils high enough. Most prefer to use mechs or a high wattage device like a DNA20/30 or something like a Duke to push their gear but again, all depends on how you vape.
Good news is there are a lot of choices. Bad news is there are a lot of choices...lol.
I have tried it. They are great. I own a SmokTech Gripper that hits great also. I like it better because it uses 18650 batteries. So i can just change out the battery whenever i need to. And if it breaks, I already plan on making my own box mod for the chipset in it.
Ahhh, there we go. Upgrading from an eGo, I'd say either a vv3 or an MVP2. They're far cheaper than the big boys and I think a great backup if you ever do decide to get a bigger mod or a mech.
Myself, if I'd known better, I'd have gone for the MVP2. It's a solid device, great battery life and can even charge your cell phone in a pinch. The vv3 I do have is very nice, but it just doesn't have the battery for bigger toppers. Not to mention the fact it looks downright silly with my EHPro KFL+ on it.
But given my druthers, I'd have ...
A vv3 with a mini-pt2. Cheap, easy to deal with, light, rebuildable coils or 5/$5.95 heads. Oh, yeah, not round!
An MVP2 with same. Better battery life and able to charge other devices. Again, not round!
A Provari with either an RBA or a carto tank. Reliable, reliable, reliable. RBA should last forever. Carto tank can look really cool.
Otherwise, maybe a box mod of some kind, like a Reo or make a bottom feeder with a DNA/SX chip or ... but that's just for fun.
Myself, if I'd known better, I'd have gone for the MVP2. It's a solid device, great battery life and can even charge your cell phone in a pinch. The vv3 I do have is very nice, but it just doesn't have the battery for bigger toppers. Not to mention the fact it looks downright silly with my EHPro KFL+ on it.
But given my druthers, I'd have ...
A vv3 with a mini-pt2. Cheap, easy to deal with, light, rebuildable coils or 5/$5.95 heads. Oh, yeah, not round!
An MVP2 with same. Better battery life and able to charge other devices. Again, not round!
A Provari with either an RBA or a carto tank. Reliable, reliable, reliable. RBA should last forever. Carto tank can look really cool.
Otherwise, maybe a box mod of some kind, like a Reo or make a bottom feeder with a DNA/SX chip or ... but that's just for fun.
You do not have to go sub-ohm to vape on a mech. In fact what many start with is basically a mech that's unregulated or regulated to 3.4v eGo and they use standard resistances just fine.
I like VV/VW because I like more consistent than unregulated mechs supply. The voltages I use are anywhere from 3.4v-4v, all within what a mech provides. The resistances I use are mostly 2Ω gennies although I have RDA's single @1.6Ω, a dual @ 1Ω and single 1.8Ω on a mech.
I started out with VV/VW mods using a Protank or Vivi-Nova's. I knew from eGos I wanted regulated voltage. I knew from eGo Twist I wouldn't go above 4v. I only got a mech to see what the hype was about and I was right, I didn't like unregulated eGos and I don't like unregulated mechs. I didn't like low resistance PT and VN, I don't like low resistance gennies or super low resistance RDA's.
You can vape what you like. You don't have to like what someone else likes.
I'm betting you have a good idea of what you like already. If you don't want to build coils you don't have to.
I like VV/VW because I like more consistent than unregulated mechs supply. The voltages I use are anywhere from 3.4v-4v, all within what a mech provides. The resistances I use are mostly 2Ω gennies although I have RDA's single @1.6Ω, a dual @ 1Ω and single 1.8Ω on a mech.
I started out with VV/VW mods using a Protank or Vivi-Nova's. I knew from eGos I wanted regulated voltage. I knew from eGo Twist I wouldn't go above 4v. I only got a mech to see what the hype was about and I was right, I didn't like unregulated eGos and I don't like unregulated mechs. I didn't like low resistance PT and VN, I don't like low resistance gennies or super low resistance RDA's.
You can vape what you like. You don't have to like what someone else likes.
I'm betting you have a good idea of what you like already. If you don't want to build coils you don't have to.
Every atomizer I've ever used works with my VTR... It has a little black extension rod that fits into the 510 connector to raise it a bit for the larger devices that won't actually slide in there, but a kanger aerotank or protank fits in there quite nicely.
Building coils is easier than you may think. I personally do NOT sub ohm. The lowest I go with my coils are 1.0 ohms. I really love the flavor that comes from a good RBA. I like the rba because it has a tank and I don't constantly have to drip like a rda. I build simple micro coils and all they consist of is usually a 28 gauge Kanthal wire, 6 wraps on a 3^4 inch drill bit, then I compress the coil with tweezers, heat to glowing red with torch let cool and put on the posts, check my ohms, wick and Im off and running. Whole process takes about 5 min. Of course some builds are more particular than others but it's very much worth learning. The taste is pretty incrediable. Best two RBAs I've tried are the kayfun and taifun. Both giving amazing flavor thick vapor . The difference is night and day. If you do get a mod, you would be selling yourself short if you didn't get a good tank . The taste is like eating a candy it's such a amazing difference
The wicking material I use most often is organic cotton or sterile cotton. I do urge you to try it. I know you will love it. I personally love tinkering with things and was very used to working with small things as I practiced dentistry for 25 plus years. However I understand building isn't for everyone. In fact, I build for my husband because he can't get the hang of it very well. But I do suggest trying. If you don't like it, or can't seem to grasp it then maybe it's not for you but at least you tried and know. But if you do like it building will make a great difference in flavor. Hope this helps and best wishes
The wicking material I use most often is organic cotton or sterile cotton. I do urge you to try it. I know you will love it. I personally love tinkering with things and was very used to working with small things as I practiced dentistry for 25 plus years. However I understand building isn't for everyone. In fact, I build for my husband because he can't get the hang of it very well. But I do suggest trying. If you don't like it, or can't seem to grasp it then maybe it's not for you but at least you tried and know. But if you do like it building will make a great difference in flavor. Hope this helps and best wishes
Also most new mods, (not the mechanicals) have a safety feature in them and if you have a short in your wire it simply won't run it. Or will say check atomizer. So if your worried get a mod with protection. I believe the dna 20 and 30 have this protection, such as the Hanna mod. So you wouldn't have to worry about shorting like you would with a mechanical mod.
RBA/RDA isn't necessary for a vv/vw, but they are definitely worth it provided you get a good build/wicking.
When I got my ProVari, I was using clearos still and continued to do so for a few weeks. Then switched to cartotanks for a few weeks and now using kayfun. All were great. Clearos would last me a week before flavor started being a little off but still usable for about another week I'd say. Cartos were stretching it on a week. Kayfun I've only built coils to play with different build styles, otherwise it's just a rewick when changing flavors.
So in summary, anything will work as long as you like it. The varying factor will be longevity/cost of maintenance.
When I got my ProVari, I was using clearos still and continued to do so for a few weeks. Then switched to cartotanks for a few weeks and now using kayfun. All were great. Clearos would last me a week before flavor started being a little off but still usable for about another week I'd say. Cartos were stretching it on a week. Kayfun I've only built coils to play with different build styles, otherwise it's just a rewick when changing flavors.
So in summary, anything will work as long as you like it. The varying factor will be longevity/cost of maintenance.
No problem.
Get a RDA, you can get genuine UD for fairly cheap. Put it on a VV/VW like Vamo/SVD they simply won't fire if you "bork it" and go too low or short out. With the SVD I think you can go down to .8Ω and dip your toes into sub-ohm if you want.
The mod takes care of all the safety issues. Won't fire anything it can't. Won't supply voltage above the amp limit it has.
There's talk about amp drain on the battery in a VV/VW. I don't think it's that much of an issue, but if you do get a 10a battery and you should be beyond safe.
You probably will need to be able to drill an air hole and won't know what size you like. That is where you are most likely to screw up the RDA, jumping to too big of a hole and deciding you want smaller. But like I said, they're fairly cheap and they'll still work with some tape covering the hole, just won't look as good.
RDA is usually easy to build on and not much to screw up.
If you like it you can decide to go on to Kayfun or gennies.
I'm definitley leaning to getting a RBA, likely the taifun. with the Kanthal wire can you get it get it hot enough with a lighter or do I actually have to buy a small torch?
I have a torch, but I haven't used it. Once I wind and mount the coil onto an atty, I check the ohms and then screw it into a mod. Before wicking, I fire the mod a few times, to make sure that they glow red from the inside out in a uniform way. While they are still hot, I squeeze the coils together to create a micro coil. Then I wick with cotton. A Bic lighter should work to torch the kanthal as well though.
With an RBA you will be able to buy a 100 foot roll of kanthal and wrap your own coils yourself instead of buying replacement coil heads.
Basically cost better than 10 times less.
And RBA is a ReBuildable Atomizer.
An RTA is an RBA with a Tank.
An RDA is an RBA with no tank, so you Drip on it instead.
For your first mod, you should get a VV/VW.
Best bang for the buck is the mvp2 passthrough battery.
On a really tight budget, get a mech with a kick;
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