Since I've gotten into RBAs, I've only used them on VV, but keep running into posts that allude to mechanical mods as being great for RBAs. Is there something "better" about using one? If so what is it? Does it have to do with being able to run very low resistance?
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I resisted mechanicals for quite a while, mainly because I have quite a collection of various vv and vw mods. I purchased my first mechanical, for the purpose of only setting up unoxidized wicks with it; with no intention of actually building lR coils and vaping with it. Eventually, one day, when I was bored, I set it up with a .9Ω coil, just to try. I must say that the results were fantastic.
I've since added a couple more mechanicals to my collection, and use them often; alternately with my vv devices, which have coils in the 1.5Ω-1.8Ω range.
The way I look at it, it doesn't have to be all one or the other. For me, both have their place and time. The vape with the sub 1Ω coil on a mechanical is intense, and the response is quick. The vape on a vv device is more 'laid back', kinda 'cigar like'. Sometimes I feel like one. Sometimes I feel like the other. I can't say that one is better than the other. Just different experiences.
The main reason is indeed lower resistance coils. For me, the size of a mech with an RBA is more to my liking. Drawtube with an AGA-T in 18650 is a good bit smaller than my Vamo with the same AGA in 18350 mode. The DrawTube in 18350 is downright small even with the stupidly large AGA on top.
I think its ideal to have one of each. Like Rule62 said, setting up un/partially oxidized coils is a job for mech. VV is handy as as a multimeter (checking resistance, battery charge, troubleshooting). And every now and then, after you've tried superlowresistance, you can build a coil over 1.2Ω for the VV and think back on the early days of your vaping.
VV devices have basically three safety cut outs. A low ohm, a maximum watts, and a maximum amps. I find, with RBAs, that a good vape can be had if the resistance of the coil, and the corresponding voltage can be set, so that the wattage approaches the maximum allowed by the vv device. For a Provari version2, that limit is 15 watts. This is doable with coils at 1.2Ω, or slightly above.
I was being silly. By the way, Rule, I've been trying Super_X_Drifters coil methods, and it puts the bite back into SLR. I'm comparing these small diameter bunched together wraps to my fat'n'wide ones, and the difference in kick, brightness and flavor is amazing. Now my fat'n'wides are totally cigar, and these little bundles are HH357-style. He just posted some of his coils in the "show us pictures" thread, mine are there too
I was just looking at the pics. Interesting. Just goes to show, there's more than one way to skin a cat.
Yesterday, I was sitting around, and with my Ohms Law Calculator app on my phone, I wanted to see at what point the Provari's maximum watt cut out (15 watts), and the maximum amp cut out (3.5 amps) converged. The result was, 1.22Ω @ 4.28V.
It's just the latest fad. Take a high power/high discharge lithium battery, wind a coil as close to a DEAD SHORT as possible, activate it near your face. It's like an accident waiting to happen. - That's what I read when I see recent posts about super low resistance.
Takeaway: Don't do it without knowing the dangers/without proper tools. It has high potential for disaster.
Takeaway: Don't do it without knowing the dangers/without proper tools. It has high potential for disaster.
Ummm... No. Not trying to be a jerk but this is just not true. Sure if you don't wrap it right and you do give yourself a short, yeah your battery is likely to vent if you do some stupid crazy setup, but done safely it's not much different from anything else except in performance. I don't know about you but when I wrap a coil in my Penelope I certainly don't purposefully make it so that it will short out and I don't picture anybody else doing so either. Plus there are VapeSafes, Shortstops, etc. and other similar short circuit protections out there that work great.
The high drain batteries can take FAR, FAR higher loads than we give them with vaping, even with SLR setups and their safety is well proven and documented, not only among vapers, but among high powered flashlight buffs that have been testing maximum amp draws, etc. long before we have been making SLR coils.
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Though to be fair, when people first started experimenting with sub-1ohm coils, I said to myself "wow these people are idiots, why on earth would they do this, they're going to blow all the teeth out of their faces" and didn't go below 1.3ohms for quite some time. It does sound a lot more scary than it really is at first because a year or so ago, 1.5ohms was considered a very low resistance coil, so hearing people talk about 0.6-0.8ohms sounded absolutely ridiculous at the time. Not so much so now, vaping is still VERY new and we are still defining what is normal every day.
Oh noes I shorted a high drain Li-Mn battery whatever will I do? Oh I'll just put the PV down until it cools off.
The humanity!
Great comments everyone, thanks!
I don't think I will be "pushing the envelope" in this area. If my Ω is in the ballpark of 1.8 to 2.6 and I set the voltage to around or under whatever adds up to 8w, I'm good.
I don't think I will be "pushing the envelope" in this area. If my Ω is in the ballpark of 1.8 to 2.6 and I set the voltage to around or under whatever adds up to 8w, I'm good.
True, true. IMR batteries don't explode on a hard short. They do get up to ~250 degrees, but even that takes a while. Just don't put it down next to the vodka bottle.
Just to give everyone a better idea on this, here are the results of a continuous load test performed by one of our forum suppliers. These were done using AW IMR 18350 batteries, which have a much lower C rating than the larger 18500s and 18650s. Remember, these were continuous load tests, which are much more strenuous than what we put the batteries through when vaping. Even in light of this, always use common sense and be safe whenever using SLR coils because accidents can still happen.
It is important to note that when every one mentions SLR set ups they are using 28g wire usually to achieve it. Using 32g wire and doing 2 wraps will make for a SLR coil but the vape will be bad. The advantage to using 28g wire is that it can handle high watts with out burning the juice like thinner 32g wire....so you get a super responsive coil and clouds of vapor with out burning the juice.. The builds with 28g wire are super stable. Once you set it up you never have to touch it again.
As some people have mentioned when you want to vape a more relaxed cigar type of vape, VV devices are handy. Although All I do when I want a more relaxed vape when using a mechanical device is to loosen the top nut on the positive post. That raises the ohms of the coil and the resulting vape is a lot less intense.
As some people have mentioned when you want to vape a more relaxed cigar type of vape, VV devices are handy. Although All I do when I want a more relaxed vape when using a mechanical device is to loosen the top nut on the positive post. That raises the ohms of the coil and the resulting vape is a lot less intense.
Path77...that graph perfectly demonstrates why mechanical devices should be used with high drain IMR batteries that are rated 10 amps and above. It also demonstrates why using a mechanical devise is actually very safe when using the correct batteries.
that's why rba's are for the experienced. i feel comfortable with what i build and check resistance and do my math prior to any use. if the battery starts to feel warm then i know im pushing the limit.
as far as rba's,....mechanicals are the only way to truly enjoy it's potential. and to have ur atty perform towards your preference. yes clearomizers and cartomizers work fine but they way they come out of the box is the best they will ever perform, as for rba's you can really taste and get your nic fix as well as huge plumes of vapor to your liking. and when the coil or wick finally goes you can build it all over again for less than a dollar.
it's all preferance....
that is what i try to achieve with my provari, 1.2Ω, it is getting the most bang for your buck with the provari.
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