the quoted capacity for LiCoO2 is at .2Ah discharge, you start discharging them at 1.5A and you'll get the same life out of them as you do LiFePO4 and LiMN, the charts I posted show the true Ah life at different discharges
Rc123a tenergy batts!!
- Thread starter quovadis
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
the quoted capacity for LiCoO2 is at .2Ah discharge, you start discharging them at 1.5A and you'll get the same life out of them as you do LiFePO4 and LiMN, the charts I posted show the true Ah life at different discharges
I don't know the first thing about batteries, but I was looking on CR123A Batteries CR123 Batteries CR123A Battery CR123 Battery and found the following info. Sounds like this could explain the problem. If not, sorry for the dumb post; just trying to be helpful.
Rechargeable CR123A
Rechargeable Li-Ion 3.6V 900mAh CR123A battery with short-circuit and low voltage protection circuit board.
RCR-123A battery $9.00 Add to Cart
These may not be compatible with other chargers or other RCR123A batteries.
NOTE: These top off at 4.2V so watch the voltage and the device you are using them in. We do NOT recommend them for use in incandescent lights or multi-cell applications. MORE instructions below
The Charger: The BC-RCR-123A charger will charge one or two batteries at a time. The batteries do not have to be taken out of the charger when fully charged as they will just float charge at that point. The charge indicator will turn from red to green as the battery or batteries charge. These batteries have no memory effects and do not need to be cycled so the more you charge them the happier they are. The wall adaptor is made for domestic 120VAC voltage. The service life of the battery will be improved if the battery is not discharged all the way on a regular basis.
The Batteries: The RCR-123A battery has proven to work best in single cell applications; especially single cell LED flashlights. This battery has a safety circuit which protects it against overloads, short circuits, etc. When used in series, the batteries sometimes will "open" or go to the fault condition as they think there is a problem. The more closely balanced or evenly charged they are, the easier it is to use them in series. Keep in mind that they are protected but not regulated, so you are dealing with a battery that will reach about 4.2V coming right off the charger if fully charged. This voltage can be harmful to incandescent lights. We do not recommend their use in incandescent flashlights due to the higher voltage of the battery.
We opted to stick with the unregulated version because the regulated ones thus far have been much lower capacity and the regulator portion of the battery has not been able to withstand very heavy current. It would short out and you would end up with an unregulated battery anyway at half the capacity of the non-regulated one. We figured it better to just start out with the non-regulated one but be careful about the 3.6V (4.2V hot off charger) higher voltage. These cells are protected with a low voltage cutoff of about 2.5V.
If you happen to get one of them to trip to the "open" or fault condition, it will reset. You can simply place it in the charger over night and it will reset and begin charging as though all was normal. We have found a few other chargers that this battery will work in but cannot guarantee that your existing charger will work and cannot recommend you using different chargers.
Rechargeable CR123A
Rechargeable Li-Ion 3.6V 900mAh CR123A battery with short-circuit and low voltage protection circuit board.
RCR-123A battery $9.00 Add to Cart
These may not be compatible with other chargers or other RCR123A batteries.
NOTE: These top off at 4.2V so watch the voltage and the device you are using them in. We do NOT recommend them for use in incandescent lights or multi-cell applications. MORE instructions below
The Charger: The BC-RCR-123A charger will charge one or two batteries at a time. The batteries do not have to be taken out of the charger when fully charged as they will just float charge at that point. The charge indicator will turn from red to green as the battery or batteries charge. These batteries have no memory effects and do not need to be cycled so the more you charge them the happier they are. The wall adaptor is made for domestic 120VAC voltage. The service life of the battery will be improved if the battery is not discharged all the way on a regular basis.
The Batteries: The RCR-123A battery has proven to work best in single cell applications; especially single cell LED flashlights. This battery has a safety circuit which protects it against overloads, short circuits, etc. When used in series, the batteries sometimes will "open" or go to the fault condition as they think there is a problem. The more closely balanced or evenly charged they are, the easier it is to use them in series. Keep in mind that they are protected but not regulated, so you are dealing with a battery that will reach about 4.2V coming right off the charger if fully charged. This voltage can be harmful to incandescent lights. We do not recommend their use in incandescent flashlights due to the higher voltage of the battery.
We opted to stick with the unregulated version because the regulated ones thus far have been much lower capacity and the regulator portion of the battery has not been able to withstand very heavy current. It would short out and you would end up with an unregulated battery anyway at half the capacity of the non-regulated one. We figured it better to just start out with the non-regulated one but be careful about the 3.6V (4.2V hot off charger) higher voltage. These cells are protected with a low voltage cutoff of about 2.5V.
If you happen to get one of them to trip to the "open" or fault condition, it will reset. You can simply place it in the charger over night and it will reset and begin charging as though all was normal. We have found a few other chargers that this battery will work in but cannot guarantee that your existing charger will work and cannot recommend you using different chargers.
I know absolutely noting about what you guys are talking about, Hubby does the mod stuff.
But we have these
4 Pack RCR123A 3V 900mAh Rechargeable Li-Ion Battery with Smart Charger
(with a 5v limiter in line) and I can vape heavily (4-5 ml a day) for 24 hours on them. I use a 901 atty on them. 5V is my sweet spot!
Now if I could just find a box they'd fit in that wasn't clear that I have to spray paint and the paint wears off, I'd be a happy bunny.
But we have these
4 Pack RCR123A 3V 900mAh Rechargeable Li-Ion Battery with Smart Charger
(with a 5v limiter in line) and I can vape heavily (4-5 ml a day) for 24 hours on them. I use a 901 atty on them. 5V is my sweet spot!
Now if I could just find a box they'd fit in that wasn't clear that I have to spray paint and the paint wears off, I'd be a happy bunny.
That's good, you are only drawing 1.4 amps..
You are safe then
Atty's that draw 1.8 amps will trip them
You are safe then
Atty's that draw 1.8 amps will trip them
I have ordered 4 x2X Rechargeable Battery cr123a Li-ion TR 16340 1000mah 3.7V
- Handling fee: Yes
- Insurance: NoUSD$23.60
I had not received these after 3 weeks. My husband uses a warehouse for his knife business and also sales Streamlight flashlight. They carried a CR123a 3.0 volts. I tried this battery but got very little vapor and the atomizers was barely warm. Would the difference in the battery cause this. I changed the 510 atomizer 3 times with old and new ones.
Jeff's Answer:
The 3.0 volt batteries you have now are way underpowered. The 3.7 colt ones are actually 4.2 when charged. Once you get the correct battery, you will love it! You are running it at almost 40% less voltage than it needs
- Handling fee: Yes
- Insurance: NoUSD$23.60
I had not received these after 3 weeks. My husband uses a warehouse for his knife business and also sales Streamlight flashlight. They carried a CR123a 3.0 volts. I tried this battery but got very little vapor and the atomizers was barely warm. Would the difference in the battery cause this. I changed the 510 atomizer 3 times with old and new ones.
Jeff's Answer:
The 3.0 volt batteries you have now are way underpowered. The 3.7 colt ones are actually 4.2 when charged. Once you get the correct battery, you will love it! You are running it at almost 40% less voltage than it needs
In looking for a PV mod that runs at 5v (I like 510's at 5v, I think that's the sweet spot), I came across this thread. Is anyone aware of a well made aluminum (not a box mod) PV that runs at 5v? They all seem to be rated at 3.7, 6 or 7.4 volts. I see a diode is used to drop the voltage down, is there a pv made that i can remove this from to get my magic voltage? Starting to think i'm going to have to build my own mod to get what I like.
Thanks, sorry if i'm hijacking your thread.
Thanks, sorry if i'm hijacking your thread.
Totally agree. I am using RCR123A 16340 3.6v 880mah batt's in my SB and it's working far better than than the 3.0v batt's. It hasn't had any effect on the atty's or KR808 carts that I use.
Well how heck do people vape 6v if this happens to everyone and nobody knows why? I'm already stupid when it comes to batteries and electricity, but I'm way lost here.
The 5V version of the GLV from supplier Great Lakes Vapor.
It's from last fall so I'm sure you're ok there by now!
I'm gonna try explaining this is laymens terms, now I'm in no means a battery expert, but I do have extensive knowlege in electrical flow,,, Battery curent flows from the positive side to the negative side. Since these batteries are stacked, the top battery goes thru a little resistance in getting to the bottom battery, hence the curent flow is not as much. Thus meaning that the bottom battery will be taking up the slack and supplying most of the current to the device. As the bottom battery uses up more current, the top battery will try to replace what's being used, that is until the bottom battery can't supply enough voltage and currnet to supply the device. Once that happens, the top battery going through the resistance of the bottom battery is all used up to the point that it can't pass any more currnet to the bottom battery. This is very common to all devices. If you want to really test this theory, try the same experiment in a common flashlight.
Like I said, I am in no means an expert on batteries, however, I work as my profession with electricity. So take this with a grain of salt and conduct your own experiments with other common products like a flashlight.
Home this clears up some of the misconceptions!
Like I said, I am in no means an expert on batteries, however, I work as my profession with electricity. So take this with a grain of salt and conduct your own experiments with other common products like a flashlight.
Home this clears up some of the misconceptions!
I just startted a personal project mod to use 2 3.7 volt batteries in parallel along with a voltage regulator to see if I can get the same drain out of both batteries. Might take me a while to get the completed product cause I'm still lookin for parts it. It may not be pretty but I hope it will be promising and also give longer battery life. I'll post info once I get a prototype finished. and btw, I plan on using 2 AW 17670 1600mAh batteries, should be slim enough to fit nicely into your back pocket with out too much bulk.
this happens on any multi-battery source.
use a flashlight that has more than one battery.. or even a wireless keyboard.
rotation of batteries is needed for any electronic device.
i have nicad rechargable batteries in both my mouse and keyboard and when they start dieing i swap them from current location to where the other is.
- Status
