READYxWICK for non cotton people

[HappiVappi]

One more time, so what is squonking?
Filthy-Beast wrote..."But when you a get bottom feed device like a Reo that all goes away. You get the convenience of a tank without the build or leaking issues " So, what are the names of a few of these bottom feeding drippers? I didn't want a new hobby when I took up E-cigs but I ended up with one. Are drippers more or less work than cartos or tanks? I currently rebuild my coils.

Urge

If you press the bottle the juice will be forced through the tube and through the 510 connector into the atomizer. That soaks the coil and the wick. Sure enough the bottom of your atty is full of juice as well. As soon as you release the bottle a vacuum effect sucks the excess juice back into the bottle. Most of the time you hear the sound. SQUONK!

Whoever came up with that word could have chosen SQEESH! or something similar, but he did not. Alas squonking became the acronym for all bottom feed action.

BTW, the beauty about this is, that there is no leaking involved. I squonk, vape and can put the device down even with the air hole pointing downwards - nothing.
A standard dripper will leak no matter what. There are just a few designs (Veritas) which are quite leak proof but the majority is not.

HTH.

Cheers.

 

[mountaingal]

Ok, I have been looking into Ready-x-wicks safety. Overall, it is looking promising. While I am still making a decision, I would not recommend using nichrome with this wick. Here is a qoute from the Nextel literature Page 40 http://www.thermostatic.com/nextel/files/notebook.pdf

"The transition
metals of titanium, vanadium, manganese,
nickel and copper degrade 3M Nextel Fibers
under oxidizing high temperature conditions."

Not sure of the risks, but still it would have me concerned, especially if torching the wick to clean. Just thought I would let the community know.

I read the product specs and the degradation was in a controlled temperature test at 1472 degrees! I don't think a dry burn when the readyxwick is still wrapped in wire will ever, ever, ever reach those temps. I say the safety factor is most promising.

For the ceramic wick:
In general, under oxidizing conditions any metals that form low melting oxides will degrade the performance of 3M Nextel Fabrics. These include alkali metals such as sodium, potassium and lithium. Also included are low melting glass formers such as lead, phosphorous, tin and antimony. The transition metals of titanium, vanadium, manganese, nickel and copper degrade 3M Nextel Fibers under oxidizing high temperature conditions.
{The above quote is from the spec sheet, page 40 of : http://www.thermostatic.com/nextel/files/notebook.pdf }

For the Kantal A-1 wire:
Kanthal wire is a ferritic iron-chromium-aluminum (FeCrAl) alloy. It does not easily rust or oxidize in industrial applications and has excellent resistance to corrosive elements.
Kanthal wire has a higher maximum operating temperature than Nichrome wire. Compared to Nichrome, it has a higher surface load, higher resistivity, higher yield strength, and lower density. Kanthal wire also lasts 2 to 4 times longer than Nichrome wire due to its superior oxidation properties and resistance to sulfuric environments.
{The above quote is from the wire guide at : Kanthal Wire }

That being said, I am off to buy some readyxwick today. I have been using ss mesh#500 with good results.

 

[supertrunker]

So to degrade nextel you need molten metal, whether that's the wire you make your coils from, or the metal your atty is made from?

I vape some low Ohm coils, but i never got close to melting anything and when you consider the point at which PG and VG boil that's no surprise.

T

 

[HgA1C]

I read the product specs and the degradation was in a controlled temperature test at 1472 degrees! I don't think a dry burn when the readyxwick is still wrapped in wire will ever, ever, ever reach those temps. I say the safety factor is most promising.

If the coil is glowing red, then the surface temp of the wire is in the range of degradation. Whether that will have a meaningful impact is definitely up for debate. However, 3M did not express any concerns over any component in Kanthal. Hence, why I said you might want to skip the nichrome.

Next, they really need to update their site (ready-x-wick). I wasted many hours researching crystalline silica. Only to finally notice on their msds that ready-x-wick is actually aluminoborosilicate (ABS because I am lazy). HUGE, HUGE, HUGE, difference between the two!!! The jury is still out on ABS (meaning no negative reports that I could find, and no OSHA regulations on dust), but it has not shown to be a concern like crystalline silica. 3M has done testing and found it to relatively benign. Page 2 Link: http://www.thermostatic.com/nextel/files/notebook.pdf

"The potential
for Nextel 312 Ceramic Fiber dust to cause biological
effects was evaluated in an intratracheal instillation
study in rats. Intratracheal instillation delivers test
materials directly to the lower respiratory tract and thus
bypasses the processes by which fibers and dust are
normally filtered out in the upper airways when they are
inhaled. In this study, Nextel 312 Ceramic Fiber dust
caused lung inflammation with no evidence of more
serious effects such as granulomas or fibrosis. A control
group similarly exposed to quartz dust developed lung
granulomas and fibrosis. From this study it was
concluded that thepotential for Nextel 312 Ceramic Fiber
dust to cause pulmonary fibrosis or other significant lung
injury is minimal"

So to degrade nextel you need molten metal, whether that's the wire you make your coils from, or the metal your atty is made from?

I vape some low Ohm coils, but i never got close to melting anything and when you consider the point at which PG and VG boil that's no surprise.

T

No, Nextel will degrade some at very high temperatures or in the presence of transition metals and a few other substances at lower oxidation enviroments/temperatures. Nickel is one such metal and dry burning can be at that temp when the coil is glowing bright or you torch it. Most likely it is not a huge concern, and probably the worst case scenerio is very trace offgassing and premature wear of your coil. However, why take a chance, especially when Kanthal is such a good choice?

 

[muzichead]

If the coil is glowing red, then the surface temp of the wire is in the range of degradation.

Seems my coils are glowing orange... What does that mean?

 

[HgA1C]

Seems my coils are glowing orange... What does that mean?

Here is a link that explains temperature and glowing colors.

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100403092633AA6OclZ

ETA:
It is almost impossible to know what the coils will do to ready-x-wick in this temperature range and environment. Your coils are either at or near the correct temperature to potentially degrade nextel in the presence of nickel. I prefer to play it safe and avoid risk when possible. Chances are there are no major concerns. However, it is your health and you should decide.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Here is a link that explains temperature and glowing colors.

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100403092633AA6OclZ

ETA:
It is almost impossible to know what the coils will do to ready-x-wick in this temperature range and environment. Your coils are either at or near the correct temperature to potentially degrade nextel in the presence of nickel. I prefer to play it safe and avoid risk when possible. Chances are there are no major concerns. However, it is your health and you should decide.

Don't know about impossible HgA1C but I agree with some of your points regarding Ni. Kanthal's materials user manuals show the color temp gradients for Kanthal as transitioning from dark red to yellow achieving the temp's necessary for some concern. So I think yes there could be a possible issue with Ni alloy in particular. But an orange indication is well within Kanthal A1's capabilities <1100F. We'd need more accurate thermal tests than I have seen of coil firing during installation in particular to be sure. I believe we usually and quite casually achieve very high temp's dry burning far inferior wicking materials with little consequence. The bright yellow temps we're used to encountering during dry burns may be above 1,450F but are likely to be well within Kanthal's tolerance and why the media has so far been successfully applied. I've personally built or participated in the building and testing of substantially more than a thousand Kanthal installs without incident damaging either Kanthal or Nextel in any way.

Optimizing the oxidation of a coil for vaping is most rapidly and adequately achieved when it is first a micro coil (in the generic sense) and a tensioned contact microcoil specifically. The less asymmetry is present in the wind the less thermal shorts (electron jump) is likely to occur as the coil oxidizes. I introduced the concept of tension winding to adhesion on this forum earlier this year. I suggest strongly we learn to use the principle of strain to assist us to make coil preparation as rapid as possible. I described the technique briefly just earlier today with my post…

What's a tensioned micro coil again?

In other words, to cite a practical common example, there's no point or advantage overheating oil in the pan. We don't need to risk scorching it or any attendant byproducts (grease smoke). Only to apply the heat necessary for us to get where we need to go. The temperature necessary to cook. Similarly we don't need to torch or risk overheating Kanthal to clean it (as in the high temp blue zone of a torch). Fact is simple washing and just enough of a dry burn to vacate remaining moisture is usually enough to remove moist sediment. An absolute pristine white surface is not necessary to good flavor, flow or performance.

I personally try to keep burn in and dry fire temps to a minimum and as brief as possible, in the red-yellow color temp transition. And only to ensure that there are no significant breaks provoking coil/hot zones. It's the latter that can significantly drive temps up the scale and exactly what we want to avoid. My reason for introducing the stable tensioned micro coil.

Save your battery for vaping. For such a small savings and with the additional temp tolerance opt for Kanthal A1.

Interesting discussion. Thanks for your contribution.

Good luck.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

One more time, so what is squonking?
Filthy-Beast wrote..."But when you a get bottom feed device like a Reo that all goes away. You get the convenience of a tank without the build or leaking issues " So, what are the names of a few of these bottom feeding drippers? I didn't want a new hobby when I took up E-cigs but I ended up with one. Are drippers more or less work than cartos or tanks? I currently rebuild my coils.

Urge

You just happen to be in a Thread, in a sub forum devoted to one of the best, REO. Reos Mods

They are amazing, simple, tough, superb performance, great customer service. They have a wonderful user group. 99% of the people who try one, Say why did I wait so long.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Seems my coils are glowing orange... What does that mean?

Hey music, see my post above. I think Nextel's temp sensitivities and potential metallic interactions are far above the typical ranges of normal use in vaping. Still due care should be exercised with high temperature exceptions in operation, like shorts and coil burn-in. On the issue of Nichrome I note also from P40 of the KA1 notebook...

At temperatures above 2192°F (1200°C) in a hydrogen containing atmosphere with a very low dew point, the SiO2 component in our fibers can be reduced to SiO gas and degrade the fabric.

So I think we're cool. But we all should look at the data if in doubt. It's pretty readily available.

Good luck.

 

[pennysmalls]

I'm getting ready to place an order with rbasupplies for more rxw and was going to try the 3mm this time around. I've been using the second to smallest jig that came with the gizmo for the 2mm and I'm wondering what you all are using for the 3mm?

 

[HappiVappi]

I'm getting ready to place an order with rbasupplies for more rxw and was going to try the 3mm this time around. I've been using the second to smallest jig that came with the gizmo for the 2mm and I'm wondering what you all are using for the 3mm?

2.5mm, 2.6mm, 2.7mm, 2.8mm drill bits.
Mind you that the shafts on metric drill bits are 3/100mm smaller. So far I like the 2.6 and the 2.7 the best.
HTH.

Cheers.

 

[pennysmalls]

Thanks HappiVappi, I'll have to see which of those I have laying around here.

 

[rudy4653]

2.5mm, 2.6mm, 2.7mm, 2.8mm drill bits.
Mind you that the shafts on metric drill bits are 3/100mm smaller. So far I like the 2.6 and the 2.7 the best.
HTH.

Cheers.

If you don't have metric bits - 12g luer needle = 2.76 mm 7/64" bit = 2.77

 

[Alamedean]

I'm getting ready to place an order with rbasupplies for more rxw and was going to try the 3mm this time around. I've been using the second to smallest jig that came with the gizmo for the 2mm and I'm wondering what you all are using for the 3mm?

You can get the 2mm to work with that jig? I can't, it seems just a tad too small. What's your secret?

 

[olefolks]

You can get the 2mm to work with that jig? I can't, it seems just a tad too small. What's your secret?

The Gizmos' second smallest jig is 1.5mm dia. I have no problem putting the 2mm RXW into the coil. Use Filthy-Beasts' method by screwing the wick into the coil like you are putting a nut onto a bolt. Make sure you are twisting the wick with the same way the coil was wrapped. Just saying!!

 

[pwheeler]

The Gizmos' second smallest jig is 1.5mm dia. I have no problem putting the 2mm RXW into the coil. Use Filthy-Beasts' method by screwing the wick into the coil like you are putting a nut onto a bolt. Make sure you are twisting the wick with the same way the coil was wrapped. Just saying!!

Precisely the method I use in both single and double coil. Works like a charm. I've tried using 3mm, but have trouble with it falling apart on me, so I limit it to the 2mm.

 

[Clark F]

It's seems the 3mm is quick to unravel at the ends with a short wick for me anyway. I think a smaller coil with the 2mm might work better, but I have almost 2 feet of 3mm to use up.

 

[HappiVappi]

It's seems the 3mm is quick to unravel at the ends with a short wick for me anyway. I think a smaller coil with the 2mm might work better, but I have almost 2 feet of 3mm to use up.

My experience is almost the opposite. Using a 2.6mm or 2.7mm - the 3 mm gets in somewhat easy. It feels quite loose, but it works great. For the thinner RxW I use two wicks fed through a 2.25mm coil. Everything else I tried, did not work good for me.

Cheers.

 

[TraceyS]

I have the 2mm and I've been on my same wick 8 days! I'm impressed. I read here and finally, although I was scared to, I started rinsing it and not taking the wick out and then dry burning to white again. Awesome stuff.

Tracey

 

[rudy4653]

I have the 2mm and I've been on my same wick 8 days! I'm impressed. I read here and finally, although I was scared to, I started rinsing it and not taking the wick out and then dry burning to white again. Awesome stuff.

Tracey

You have just experienced the tip of the iceberg!
I've run mine for over a month without replacing!