READYxWICK for non cotton people

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MacDiver

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Thanks to Tim for the thread and everyone that offered advise and direction. I'm convinced and ordered some a few days ago. I got the 2mm slim. Looking for that vapemail :)

Do more wraps of the coil move the ohms up or down?

Do I need a butane torch to burn off or will a cig lighter work? I also have a VV passthrough from Vapor Kings that gets pretty hot too at the highest setting putting out 4.8V. That work too?
 
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BlueSnake

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Thanks to Tim for the thread and everyone that offered advise and direction. I'm convinced and ordered some a few days ago. I got the 2mm slim. Looking for that vapemail :)

Do more wraps of the coil move the ohms up or down?

Do I need a butane torch to burn off or will a cig lighter work? I also have a VV passthrough from Vapor Kings that gets pretty hot too at the highest setting putting out 4.8V. That work too?

More wraps are higher ohms. I haven't been torching anything. Not the wick or the wire.
 

MacTechVpr

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Thanks to Tim for the thread and everyone that offered advise and direction. I'm convinced and ordered some a few days ago. I got the 2mm slim. Looking for that vapemail :)

Do more wraps of the coil move the ohms up or down?

Do I need a butane torch to burn off or will a cig lighter work? I also have a VV passthrough from Vapor Kings that gets pretty hot too at the highest setting putting out 4.8V. That work too?

Some of the following build reports on the Protank MicroCoil Discussion!! thread for conventional (torched) and tensioned microcoils are directly portable to the REOS. This will give you an idea as to resistance scalability…


Here is a sum-up of the most pertinent validations I have made for KPT (addendum in blue) for your vaping pleasure…


32AWG, 7/6 1.75mm i.d. m.c. = 2.2Ω √
32AWG, 5/4 2mm i.d., loose m.c. = 1.85Ω √
30AWG, 11/10 1.75mm i.d., t.m.c. =2.35Ω √
30AWG, 11/10 1/16-1.58mm i.d., m.c. = 2.1Ω √
30AWG, 11/10 1/16-1.58mm i.d., m.c. = 2.1Ω √ #292 MrOcelot
30AWG, 11/10, 1.2mm i.d., t.m.c. = 1.8Ω √ #601 Christopherja
30AWG, 10/9 1/16-1.58mm i.d., m.c. = 2.04Ω √
30AWG, 9/8 1.75mm i.d., t.m.c. =2.01 √
30AWG, 9/8 1.58mm i.d., m.c. =1.93Ω √
30AWG, 9/8 1.58mm i.d., t.m.c. =1.83 Ω √
30AWG, 8/7 1.75mm i.d. m.c. = 1.85Ω √
30AWG, 8/7 1/16-1.58mm i.d. m.c. = 1.81√
30AWG, 8/7 1/16-1.58mm i.d. t.m.c. = 1.73Ω √
30AWG, 7/6 1.75mm i.d., m.c. = 1.68 √
30AWG, 7/6 1/16-1.58mm i.d., m.c. = 1.57Ω √
29AWG, 10/9 1/16-1.58mm i.d., t.m.c. = 1.95Ω √
29AWG, 9/8 1.75mm i.d., t.m.c. = 1.73Ω√
29AWG, 9/8 1/16-1.58mm i.d., t.m.c. = 1.63Ω √
29AWG, 8/7 1.75mm i.d., t.m.c. = 1.52Ω √
29AWG, 8/7 1/16-1.58mm i.d., t.m.c. = 1.40Ω √
28AWG, 12/11, 1/16-1.58mm i.d., m.c. = 1.3Ω #241 vdaedalus
28AWG, 10/9, 2mm i.d., m.c.= 1.62Ω
28AWG, 9/8, 2mm i.d., m.c.= 1.49Ω
28AWG, 8/7 2mm i.d., m.c.= 1.3Ω

Some standard verification m.c. winds are included for perspective. All results were three times hit, verified on separate cargo-meters and variable in operation. Wire spec is Temco, Kanthal A-1. Nominal lead lengths typically noted on avg. are ~7mm(Neg)+9.25mm(Pos).

m.c.= conventional (hand or mechanically wound) contact coil
t.m.c. = tensioned contact coil

Your submissions would be helpful and appreciated. Please post or pm and I will validate (replicate) for this table as soon as possible.

(n.b. A mechanically wound coil is not necessarily tensioned. Preferably tension adequate to induce turn-adhesion must have been applied for its use to be inferred or reported. Not merely external heat or forming pressure. Thank you, as there will be resistance implications and its important to make the destination.)

Hope this info is helpful in targeting your temp sets. Let me know your validations please (or successful improvement so we can test it!).

Good luck all.

Good luck md, enjoy the journey…

:)
 
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RattlerX

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Received my 3mm RxW today and immediately built a quick semi-ugly coil using 6 wraps of 28ga on a 2.5mm mandrel. I installed in a LP RM2 and it vapes great. I did insert a small mandrel down the center but that was it. I get great flavor and vapor.

I am still puzzled why some just can't get the flavor they want. I spent almost no time and basically threw this together and BAM…I don't use fruity or sweetened flavor. I only use vanilla's and custards.

One thing I noticed it that I do tend to loose flavor with lower ohm coils. But if I stay in the 1.1-.9ohm range everything is great.

There are times when I want a hard quick hitting monster and then I just use .6ohm coil and straight unflavored. That REO is set-up for emergency use only….lol
 

MacTechVpr

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Thanks MacTechVpr! I sure can use that.

:)

MD, you're likely to encounter some slight variations to the downside. Leads on a Protank are typically shorter than most drippers. Perhaps not for some useful on the REOS. Will depend on how tight to posts you build. I started posting these tables as a rough roadmap for novice builders. To give a sense of what building towards a temperature target implies in resistance.

Good luck and enjoy the vape.

:)
 

pwheeler

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I have been running 3mm RxW in a .5 ohm coil on my rm2 using a fairly clean liquid. Dry burned twice during that time to clean it. Yesterday, I noticed a marked decrease in liquid retention. I was getting the dry, burned taste during one lung hit. I opened it and the RxW was broken in two. One half mostly inside the coil with a part hanging out the end opposite the fluid hole. The other half had floated away to the other post. Overall, I'm still impressed getting 12 days, almost on one wick. I'd still like to find out why it came apart like that. I just stuck some Ko Gen Do cotton wick in there for the moment as it's my only Reo that I am using, but I'll try another wick/coil setup when I get the chance.
 

Filthy-Beast

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I just switched from using spaced coils to compressed micros. So I changed my wick and coil that had been running for over 8 weeks now. Only thing I can think of is you damaged the coil during initial build or during a cleaning. I found if I wrapped the coil over the wick it was easy to cut through it with the wire.
 

MasterofNone

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I just switched from using spaced coils to compressed micros. So I changed my wick and coil that had been running for over 8 weeks now. Only thing I can think of is you damaged the coil during initial build or during a cleaning. I found if I wrapped the coil over the wick it was easy to cut through it with the wire.

I experienced this as well, once with kanthal and once with the Rene- hell Rene was MEANT to cut things, lol. My wicks are all inserted now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

MacTechVpr

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Thanks to Tim for the thread and everyone that offered advise and direction. I'm convinced and ordered some a few days ago. I got the 2mm slim. Looking for that vapemail :)

Do more wraps of the coil move the ohms up or down?

Do I need a butane torch to burn off or will a cig lighter work? I also have a VV passthrough from Vapor Kings that gets pretty hot too at the highest setting putting out 4.8V. That work too?

You won't be disappointed. With the right coil match and tension it's as close to cotton as you can get. For many flavors better. Plus the flow capacity is hard to describe. So this translates to the ability to use more power. Not to mention an easy build.

Good luck Mac.

:)
 

ltrainer

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You won't be disappointed. With the right coil match and tension it's as close to cotton as you can get. For many flavors better. Plus the flow capacity is hard to describe. So this translates to the ability to use more power. Not to mention an easy build.

Good luck Mac.

:)
Mac, your avatar. Is that you or is that Bruce Willis? If its Bruce Willis is his photo elongated?
 

rudy4653

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I just switched from using spaced coils to compressed micros. So I changed my wick and coil that had been running for over 8 weeks now. Only thing I can think of is you damaged the coil during initial build or during a cleaning. I found if I wrapped the coil over the wick it was easy to cut through it with the wire.

I noticed that as well. I always used to just insert mandrell and hand wind the wire around the wick, nice quick & easy. Now that I do the insert way I noticed I don't get the little "fuzzies" on the wick any more. I now believe that it was because as I hand wound the tension on the wire actually cuts threw the tiny fibers of the wick. I am now a converted insert wick builder. :)
 

MacTechVpr

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Mac, your avatar. Is that you or is that Bruce Willis? If its Bruce Willis is his photo elongated?


Naaah, he's just hungry.
Just keep it on the downlo.
Some say I kinda/don't resemble him,
Just like to yippie-kay tho.
A sketch I think, it doesn't taper
Got it off the funny papers.
Good luck.

:)
 

oldbroad

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I noticed that as well. I always used to just insert mandrell and hand wind the wire around the wick, nice quick & easy. Now that I do the insert way I noticed I don't get the little "fuzzies" on the wick any more. I now believe that it was because as I hand wound the tension on the wire actually cuts threw the tiny fibers of the wick. I am now a converted insert wick builder. :)

I really have nothing to contribute to this thread...

I just want you to know Rudy, that I really really want your

Reo..this is stunning!
 

Dconnor

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For those of you using single coils and having dry hit issues, here's a suggestion. I was having the same problems. Just did not feel like a "juicy" enough hit. For about two weeks I have been using an infinity coil with two pieces of 2mm. It is 28ga kanthal, 8 wraps (4 on each side) and comes out to right at 1 ohm. Works really well to reduce the dry hits. You want to be sure the center of the wick is open and I have the ends touching the deck.
Below on the YK1 is two weeks old. Just built the second pic but it is an IGO-bf and it is a winner as well.
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Someone at a local B&M called it bunny ears!
7upyheqy.jpg
 
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