ReadyXWick - Round 2

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Roscoe01

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I found that the coil starts looking a little ragged long before the wick has issues. This one was on week 9 when I decided to change it because the coil was turning brown even after a rinse and dry burn.

IMAG1915_1-L.jpg
I have a twisted 28g coil at .8 ohms in this one so a lot of mass there. I suspect I will be able to go a long time before any degradation in the coil. I will run this build until I no longer get the performance I desire. Generally I don't even dry burn until I start getting harsh hits and it's almost always a hot spot developing on one side of coil due to gunk build up. Dry burn and rinse and it's good to go again.

Thanks to all for turning me on to this stuff. I no longer leave the house with rebuilding supplies. Rxw together with reos have greatly simplified my vaping experience.
 

rudy4653

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Maybe you can shed some light... When I see pics of coils wicked with readyX, they're all really short wicks like that. Is there a particular reason to keep readyX wicks that short specifically, or is it just indicative of the preference of the builders I've seen posting pics?

I got a little of both sizes the other day. I really just wanted it for the RM2 on my 14500 mini... long story short: The mini only gets occasional use (5 or 6 ml per week) so I'm finding it difficult to get in to a good re-wicking rythm compared to the Grand which gets done every second or third night before bed no matter if it needs it or not. ... I cut the readyX just like I would silica and left some tails to reach the deck. It seems to be OK. I'm just wondering if there's a specific to readyX reason to keep them shorter.

You got alot of answers regarding short wick.
Regarding how often you need to change the wick and getting into a 'rythm" using RxW it's an easy rythm...set it and forget it! :) Need only to get into a dry burn rythm. As others have mentioned , I have had my wicks on my Woodvils and 14500 mini for over a month and not even thought about rewicking! :)
 

ed101z

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Been experimenting with 2mm RxW, and found that it's easy to break apart after torching, and leaves a dusty mess like silica does. Makes me wonder. What's the difference between 2mm RxW, and 2mm hollow Ekowool? I know specs say this; say that, but that could just be a marketing crap.

Has anyone on here compared 2mm RxW with 2mm hollow Ekowool? Just wondering if there's a significant difference to justify the price.
 
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ed101z

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Thanks for clarifying FB. I do need to learn more about the RxW. For instance, how many times can it be dry burned - using drained battery at 3.7v ?? I've noticed dust residue on the RM2 deck after dry burning. Took the piece of RxW out of the coil (a #51 drill bit for this test), and dry burned the coil. RxW had a scorched ring around it, so I torched it (about 5 seconds) to clean it. Tried to re-insert it, and it broke in half as I tried to spin it in the coil. That was using a #51 drill bit though. I can't imagine using a tight 1/16 bit. For removing the 2mm RxW ... I find the #50 drill bit to be the perfect diameter. It's easy peazy with #50.

Is it best to leave the RxW in the coil to dry burn? If so, how many times can this be done? I'm using a 1.25ohm coil.
 

Filthy-Beast

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I never mess with it once inserted. I've dry burned twice a week for over 8 weeks. I lightly rinse with a trickle of water and dry burn. The wick was still looking going fine but the coil was pretty ugly by that point so I changed it out.

The edges where the dry burn cannot get hot enough to clean can get dark, when it bothers me I touch the ends. I'm more worried about the torch damaging my rba insulators than about the dark on the wick.
 

ed101z

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......The edges where the dry burn cannot get hot enough to clean can get dark, when it bothers me I touch the ends. I'm more worried about the torch damaging my RBA insulators than about the dark on the wick.
Sorry. I'm not getting the picture. Do you leave the coil on the RBA as you torch it? If so, this definitely has potential to damage it if you're not extremely careful. I completely slide the RxW out of the coil, and then, stick a wire through the hole to hold it - as I lightly run the torch over it. Had to do this exact step when I was using SS Mesh, but it's a lot easier to mess with than SS Mesh though because you don't have to worry about hot spots. Once the RxW is lightly torched and cleaned off, it swells up a little, but it spins back in the #50 drill bit with no problem. I think the problem that caused it to break in half was trying to spin it back in the tigher #51 bit coil - which is a little towards the 1/16 side.

Have you tried using a #50 bit coil yet? What's your take on it?
 

muzichead

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Yes Ed, you torch it in the atty....very carefully I might add. I have done it once or twice and was usually w/ the 3mm setup. I have since corrected that setup and all is good now. I use the 2mm almost exclusively and pretty much always have. There should never be an instance where you would have to remove the wick to clean it up.

As FB pointed out it lasts quite a long time. I had one setup that went for almost 5 months before rebuilding, only because the coils were so degraded. The one thing I have noticed on all the coils I have wicked is that if the wick just slides in and out easily, I always have performance issues. The wick needs to be very snug inside the coil and make as much contact with it to perform at peak level. I believe if you watch the video's over at RBA Supplies it is even mentioned in one of them. I think it was the newer video. The recommended mandrel sizes are 1/16" and 7/64" depending on which size wick you are using.
 

rudy4653

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I also recommend NOT taking the RxW wick out of the coil each time as FB suggests. No need!
The little ceramic fibers will break as you torch them dry then also the weave will change slightly each time you disturb by pulling out and sliding back in. I think it's best to set and forget! just my 2cents. :)
I do torch mine while directly on the rba with a very small butane pipe lighter. It's small enough that I can just do a few passes after dry burn and not damage the RBA at all to get that crisp white wick again.
If you want to learn more check out the first ReadyXwick thread. MacCregor(?) think thats the name has thread that are VERY specific in the properties of the ceramic wick. MIT explanations! :)
 

ed101z

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Thanks. I'll check it out. I do bunch or push it together to fatten it up once inserted in the coil. As far as performance, it's working really good with the #50 drill bit coil. Getting really good flavor, and no dry hits. Tinkering with it is most likely my problem. I'll try not touching it, and see how long it will goes. :)
 

rudy4653

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Thanks. I'll check it out. I do bunch or push it together to fatten it up once inserted in the coil. As far as performance, it's working really good with the #50 drill bit coil. Getting really good flavor, and no dry hits. Tinkering with it is most likely my problem. I'll try not touching it, and see how long it will goes. :)

If you are into tinkering, I would try slightly smaller manddrel so you don't have to "fatten up". That changes the properties. Use a size that you can SCREW into the coil. If it spins around inside the coil easily that is too loose. The angle cut end/screw in method is the way to go. I use a 16G luer with my 2mm RxW, it's slightly larger than1/16" bit @ 1.65mm vs 1.58mm.

FYI :)

50 drill bit = 1.77mm
51 = 1.70mm
16g leur= 1.65
52 = 1.61
1/16 = 1.58
 
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ed101z

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If you are into tinkering, I would try slightly smaller manddrel so you don't have to "fatten up". That changes the properties. Use a size that you can SCREW into the coil. If it spins around inside the coil easily that is too loose. The angle cut end/screw in method is the way to go. I use a 16G luer with my 2mm RxW, it's slightly larger than1/16" bit @ 1.65mm vs 1.58mm.

FYI :)

50 drill bit = 1.77mm
51 = 1.70mm
16g leur= 1.65
52 = 1.61
1/16 = 1.58

Thanks. Learning more about RxW. Will look into many things today::
  • 16g leur. Don't know where to get the around here, but do have a #51. May try it again.
  • Had to dry burn just now, and added a couple drops of spring water to the coil - BEFORE pulse dry burning. Seemed to help matters, and didn't leave any residue. Got a fresh taste when juice saturated the coil upon refill.
  • Look into a fine tip torch so I can dry burn the coil while it's still on the RM2.
 

rudy4653

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Thanks. Learning more about RxW. Will look into many things today::
  • 16g leur. Don't know where to get the around here, but do have a #51. May try it again.
  • Had to dry burn just now, and added a couple drops of spring water to the coil - BEFORE pulse dry burning. Seemed to help matters, and didn't leave any residue. Got a fresh taste when juice saturated the coil upon refill.
  • Look into a fine tip torch so I can dry burn the coil while it's still on the RM2.

51 should be better than your 50.
16g luer can be ordered from DIY juice vendors like MFS or Wizard Labs. I'm lazy and don't use a jig so I like the leur as I can hold the plastic end with the wire under my thumb and wind a somewhat tensioned coil. A simple butane pipe lighter works great as a "mini torch"! Glad you are making progress! :)
 

ed101z

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I'm a true believer in RxW now. I've used it 4 days, and had to perform a few dry burns (to keep the coil clean and juice tasty). I used the drops of distilled/spring water to the coil + RxW (as FB suggested), and slowly pulse fired while blowing on the coil. Ordinarily, I would've had to change cellucotton twice already. The RxW still gives awesome flavor and taste... just like a new build would give. Loving the RxW.

One question though: What steps do you take when you're going to change the coil ....yet reuse the same RxW? I ask this because I've ruined a couple of pieces already.
 

MacTechVpr

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I also recommend NOT taking the RxW wick out of the coil each time as FB suggests. No need!
The little ceramic fibers will break as you torch them dry then also the weave will change slightly each time you disturb by pulling out and sliding back in. I think it's best to set and forget! just my 2cents. :)
I do torch mine while directly on the rba with a very small butane pipe lighter. It's small enough that I can just do a few passes after dry burn and not damage the RBA at all to get that crisp white wick again.
If you want to learn more check out the first ReadyXwick thread. MacCregor(?) think thats the name has thread that are VERY specific in the properties of the ceramic wick. MIT explanations! :)

Thanks for the nod Rudy. Glad to see so many of you have been able to glean some advantage from my observations on Nextel. Now likely over a thou builds with this stuff…and the joint and personal builds continue.

Vaping test pairs right now, duals on 454BB's and MutX's at .3Ω with 26 and 24 AWG respectively. That's 60W through these things on a full charged 650. These things are powerful and awfully scorch resistant. But true that, no need to torch 'em. Indeed burn them before vaping and you damage the delicate micro fibers. Think on it. It's ceramic folks. Like glass. Make it thin enough and they're going to be damaged.

Your recommendation is right on point. Move the wick slightly to one side then the other and brief low voltage pulsing (3.3-3.5V) is enough to return the fibers beneath the coil to a pristine white state. Good approach to limit power (were not vaporizing) to not damage the good build and oxidation you developed when you created the coil either. That isn't needed. At the end of clearing the wick and any coil accretion one good solid pulse to make sure you light end-to-end and it's good to go.

Some residue of pigment will get forced out to create the signature rings at the edges of the coil when you pulse. These as you also suggest can be easily dusted off with a very low heat butane pencil or lighter even taking care of course not to overheat the atty as you do so…if you're a stickler on the coil being neat and uniform. It will perform just as well if you ignore that.

As you vape a ceramic fiber wick it cures. Inter-fiber channels compacted by the evacuation of air through kilning expand and others develop with use like the minor streams in a delta. Flavor and performance are enhanced as this happens. These enlarged conduits account for the wick's exemplary flavor neutrality and fullness. This is the only wicking material I have tested that actually improves with time. Again, as you point out, assuming one doesn't damage the material through handling or processing. We live in the physical universe after all.

Thanks again Rudy.

And best of luck to you all this Holiday Season.

:)

Enjoy the vape!

p.s. This example I posted on RxW many weeks ago, still going strong! An amazing example of Nextel's impressive vertical lift capabilities (evidence of it's incredible flow potential). No gunk, no fuss, with regular maintenance…


359705d1406426217-protank-microcoil-discussion-img_0959a.jpg
 

ed101z

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....As you vape a ceramic fiber wick it cures. Inter-fiber channels compacted by the evacuation of air through kilning expand and others develop with use like the minor streams in a delta. Flavor and performance are enhanced as this happens. These enlarged conduits account for the wick's exemplary flavor neutrality and fullness. This is the only wicking material I have tested that actually improves with time. Again, as you point out, assuming one doesn't damage the material through handling or processing. We live in the physical universe after all......
This explains why I'm having great experiences with the #50 drill bit. After heat expands the RxW, it fills into the coil. Getting awesome flavor; taste; and vapor. Will try #51 on my next build and see how that goes.
 

Filthy-Beast

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I'm a true believer in RxW now. I've used it 4 days, and had to perform a few dry burns (to keep the coil clean and juice tasty). I used the drops of distilled/spring water to the coil + RxW (as FB suggested), and slowly pulse fired while blowing on the coil. Ordinarily, I would've had to change cellucotton twice already. The RxW still gives awesome flavor and taste... just like a new build would give. Loving the RxW.

One question though: What steps do you take when you're going to change the coil ....yet reuse the same RxW? I ask this because I've ruined a couple of pieces already.
I don't reuse it. If I change a coil it gets new wick. Unless I'm testing different builds and trash it early a coil last 8 weeks or more.
 

RattlerX

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Just changed out a 3.5 month coil/wick due to coil failure. During a routine cleaning the coil snapped in the middle. The RxW was getting a bit frayed on the edges and was dark in color but was still vaping beautifully.

As I said before I clean my coil/wicks after each bottle. I have multiple REO's so it does not get used all day every day but it was in a REO that I use a lot. Rinse and pulse until dry and clean. This keeps them lasting a long time.
 

danibanani

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Hello, everyone!

I have read through the thread, but I am having some issues.

I tried the coiling gizmo that I've been using with my coils. I quickly learned that none of these will work with the 2mm Readyxwick. I ended up getting out a 2.4mm screwdriver and wrapping 4-5 ugly coils around it which gave me an ohms reading of 0.8. I did finally get the readyxwick into that build. I looked at the card that came with this, and it said to use a 1/16th drill bit. Is this something I can get at Lowes? Will it slide through that with ease if I cut it at the 45 degree angle?

I am having to squonk at every hit. Is this normal, or will the need to sqounk go down as the wick gets used more?

I read that this thing could be blowtorched on the actual RM2. I take it that one would take it off the precious Reo, am I correct?

I was also told that a 3mm wick was better to get and more sturdy. Is this what you guys prefer?

So far, I am loving this wick. Such a smooth taste. I am just such a newbie to all of this. My brand new REO will hopefully be here by the end of the week. :) Pictures will follow, naturally. ;)

Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Sincerely,
Dani
 
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