Rebuilding Kanger Pro Tank Coils

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JStallings

Full Member
Verified Member
Oct 15, 2014
32
27
Houston, Texas, United States
Greetings all and Happy vaping :cool:

After considering the fine advice offered by the responding posters in my earlier thread "Kanger Dual Bottom Coil Service Life", I went out on the interwebs and located the youtube toots for both cleaning and rebuilding Kanger coils.

What I took away from watching them (and especially after disassembling a couple of old nasties I had laying about), was that cleaning them was probably an act of desperation, a recourse of last resort.

Rebuilding them, however looked like it might not be so tough I wouldn't approach it; especially given that I could exercise some control over wicking material, wire gauge and number of turns in the coils.

My local shop recommended 30 gauge wire and 100% organic rayon batting. I took home $5 worth of each and set to work, using the rebuild tutorial as a guide.

All the caveats and warnings I got when I purchased the materials focused on the difficulty of winding a nice neat coil; something I knew I wouldn't have a problem with, and didn't. I made the two coils, filled them with the wicking, and made it look just like the toot. Then I stacked them, separated by a layer of the wicking, and reassembled them into the burner housing using the posts and silicon insulators as per the toot.

Trimmed up with the seals on it looked like a brand new one, and it read 1.2 to 1.6 ohms on my general purpose ohmmeter between the center post and housing; good to go, says I!

So I primed it, juiced up a tank, put it all together on a spinner and...
...nuttin'. Blinking light on the battery, as if dead. It wasn't, was freshly charged; tried other burner/tank, its fine. Tried three batteries, same deal all the way around.

Where did I jack it up?


Thanks for reading my screed, and thanks for any help you might offer :D


Cheers!
James
 

IMFire3605

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
May 3, 2013
2,041
3,148
Blue Rapids, KS, US
Sounds like a short, one wire contacting the ground (body) that shouldn't. Got this a lot in my adventures of rebuilding Protank 1 and 2 heads. With 32awg you could make a parallel 10 wrap on a 1/16th drill bit, generally measures out to 1.4 to 1.6 ohms, just have to once assembled and before trimming the leads, using needle nose pull the leads tight, this setup in technicality makes a dual coil once the leads are trimmed, and you'll have to put more wicking on the top of the coil to stop flooding with a PT3 head.
 

Jeff Adams

Full Member
Nov 2, 2014
6
1
36
Hickory, NC, USA
google search steam-engine coil calculator (would have posted link but im still new to this forum) for your coil calculator. it can figure out any combination of gauge kanthal, inner diameter of your coil and target resistance, or ohms. I use a 2mm drill bit to twist my coils around. get the specified number of loops set out in the calculator, then torch the coil with a cheap butane torch for 10 seconds. after installing to the coil body, I use 1.5mm ecowool or silica wick. I twist 2 wet strands together going through the coil and then lay 2 on top and them re assemble. don't forget to test your coils resistance on an omnimeter, you can get these on ebay by SMOK for about $15. it will not tell you if you have a short, so make sure to test on a cheap mod with short circuit protection before vaping on a good mod to avoid any fires or any other craziness.
good luck and happy vaping
, jeff
 

JStallings

Full Member
Verified Member
Oct 15, 2014
32
27
Houston, Texas, United States
I've come to the conclusion after a couple of attempts that winding 8 wraps with 30 gauge wire produces a coil that is simply too long to avoid hitting the heater body. Even if that can be avoided, the wire is sufficiently stiff as to be near impossible to bend out of the way at the bottom of the heater.

I'm going to get some 32 gauge, which is significantly lighter/thinner, and have a go with that. I'll let y'all know how it goes :cool:


Cheers and Happy Vaping!
 

JStallings

Full Member
Verified Member
Oct 15, 2014
32
27
Houston, Texas, United States
Heh, Mea Culpa!

I went to Vapor Sense and got a EHPro Kayfun Lite V2 clone; it's bad to the bone and I made the first coil used in it and likely will make the rest. The vape quality has been top notch since the first puff at 12:15 PM or thereabouts ;)
I'm looking forward to many happy returns given the consistency of quality throughout this tank and the high degree of maintainability (rewicking between coils, yes please) and no stream of trashy waste xD

Not to mention, no 20$/week tab for coils :cool:


Cheers
James
 
Last edited:

Btsmokincat

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Oct 10, 2013
1,987
2,354
Waterville ME
Greetings all and Happy Vaping :cool:

After considering the fine advice offered by the responding posters in my earlier thread "Kanger Dual Bottom Coil Service Life", I went out on the interwebs and located the youtube toots for both cleaning and rebuilding Kanger coils.

What I took away from watching them (and especially after disassembling a couple of old nasties I had laying about), was that cleaning them was probably an act of desperation, a recourse of last resort.

Rebuilding them, however looked like it might not be so tough I wouldn't approach it; especially given that I could exercise some control over wicking material, wire gauge and number of turns in the coils.

My local shop recommended 30 gauge wire and 100% organic rayon batting. I took home $5 worth of each and set to work, using the rebuild tutorial as a guide.

All the caveats and warnings I got when I purchased the materials focused on the difficulty of winding a nice neat coil; something I knew I wouldn't have a problem with, and didn't. I made the two coils, filled them with the wicking, and made it look just like the toot. Then I stacked them, separated by a layer of the wicking, and reassembled them into the burner housing using the posts and silicon insulators as per the toot.

Trimmed up with the seals on it looked like a brand new one, and it read 1.2 to 1.6 ohms on my general purpose ohmmeter between the center post and housing; good to go, says I!

So I primed it, juiced up a tank, put it all together on a spinner and...
...nuttin'. Blinking light on the battery, as if dead. It wasn't, was freshly charged; tried other burner/tank, its fine. Tried three batteries, same deal all the way around.

Where did I jack it up?


Thanks for reading my screed, and thanks for any help you might offer :D


Cheers!
James

I've found turning a kanger dual coil into a single coil is much easier! i have a two part blog showing how I do it. Click on the "2" next to blog entries under my avatar. It might give you some ideas....
 

leekeylee

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 22, 2014
491
583
Hull, UK
I've found turning a kanger dual coil into a single coil is much easier! i have a two part blog showing how I do it. Click on the "2" next to blog entries under my avatar. It might give you some ideas....

I have rebuilt all my kanger heads from T3s to Protanks and I now use the EMOW Mega that uses the new enclosed dual coils. I re-build these to a vertical coil and the vape is amazing.

Here is how I re-build to vertical. You can do it in the older style heads that have the wicks sticking out the side again a much better vape in my opinion.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ed-kanger-dual-coil-single-vertical-coil.html
 
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