Reo clone query

[Ben85]

Hi all,

I have a Reo clone on the way which I intend of converting to LP.

I have read that some have put genuine Reo contacts etc in their clones. Have those that have done this noticed any real increase in performance? And if you have, what kit was it that you put in (new or old)?

 

[AU717]

Voltage loss, 93. Better contacts provide less resistance through them resulting in better current flow from the battery to your coil.
However, I personally would have bought a beat up used REO before even considering supporting someone who has stolen Rob's tedious design and workmanship.
ok I will shut up now.

 

[herb]

I don't see how my clone would last any less of a time.

The clone is solid aluminum , will last forever , REO nuts WILL ALWAYS dis the clone so pay no mind .

Enjoy it .

 

[supertrunker]

Just for general information, i don't build below 0.3Ω on a Reo or anything else for that matter. It becomes a trade-off between mod maintenance and battery life.

At the risk of being obtuse let me state that the best 30A battery is only just capable of powering a 0.14Ω build, with no headroom, margin for error or safety buffer. As the battery ages its performance decreases.

93 is right and single battery devices imo cannot handle that thrashing for long.

T

 

[Frenchfry1942]

I didn't bother even using the guts that came with my SKU 2760500. I kept them for emergencies as a back-up to the other 9 back-up sets of guts that I got.

I received it, broke it all down and proceeded to clean and paint. From wherever you get it, it is really nice in that it is easy to completely break it down. After the paint, I just assembled it and had the tires aligned. I thought it was a wet cinder block, but someone said granite. Anyway, it was nice and rough so I could grab it easily. I did put two clear coat layers on it for protection and that took about 1/3 of the roughness away. I am happy.

It and my "original" plus 6 toppers are a part of my vape-apocalypse survival kit. As someone said, a CREO.

 

[93gc40]

Its about time you admitted it...

The great thing about a Reo is you only have to purchase "1" to last a lifetime!!! There is no such thing as having to purchase a replacement!!!

Can you please stop trolling the Reo now?

Clone users are not the TROLLs of this thread.

I can't help that you feel shame for spending all that extra money on your mod.

Fact is you are still living, I assume. So you have no Idea if you Reo will last a lifetime. You only know what the advertising claim say. Just as I have no Idea how long my crappy cheap clone will.

Now the fact that I need to make the exact same upgrades to my clone as I would have had to do with a ORIGINAL Grand. The only real difference between the 2 I can find is craftsmanship and maybe methods of construction.

Even if my mod never fails, I just loose them, I can still buy 4 more before I get to the cost of a single Reo. OK, 3 more since I vape at low enough ohms to need upgraded contacts.

 

[Ben85]

Much better...

 

[Ben85]

Why would you expect performance to change? All the kit should do is allow for lower ohm or higher power builds. It the coil and battery that determine performance in a mech NOT the box you use to connect them.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

That's not exactly correct. You not heard of voltage drop? If the contacts in the clone are that shoddy (and by shoddy I mean adding resistance) then it's worth upgrading for the increased performance. But I won't if people have not found this to be the case.

 

[supertrunker]

The newer Reo contacts are better than anything that preceded them, but there are still some people that use even thicker firing pins and silver screws, rather than a spring at all.

Naturally, this is not a recommended or necessarily safe way of vaping, but it happens. Similarly a few years ago, a lot of us took to using fuses instead of springs precisely to try to eliminate some of the voltage drop.

Genuine Reos now have a newly designed adjustable 510 connector that is more efficient than the old ones, because the spring and 510 are 2 of the main bottlenecks in such a mech.

T

 

[supertrunker]

It's difficult to recommend the elimination of all safety features without knowing what batteries, or coil building ability the OP has.

Some of us do it either to push the envelope or because we are experienced and confident in our batteries and safety precautions. If you pressed me on it, i'd say that the voltage drop using an auto fuse is an acceptable price to pay for the short-circuit protection and really, only seriously low-Ohm builds demand solid connections.

Only one of my Reos is unmodified, so you test your coils about 4 times before you fire them and with the atty fully assembled!

T

 

[93gc40]

That's not exactly correct. You not heard of voltage drop? If the contacts in the clone are that shoddy (and by shoddy I mean adding resistance) then it's worth upgrading for the increased performance. But I won't if people have not found this to be the case.

Yes I know about voltage drop. I also know the only way to even notice it at the power levels a Reo runs. You would need a very expensive volt ohm meter. voltafe drop is really only applicable to very high wattage and ultra low ohm builds at sub .2ohm. Which is well beyond the capacity of even an upgraded original Reo.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[Ben85]

I will post pics tomorrow, but my clone has had a few upgrades today including;

Genuine Reo adjustable pin (now has reverse threading)
Genuine Reo Spring contact (and surface underneath stripped and polished)
Genuine Reo heavy duty contact
Genuine Reo bottle and tube kit
Genuine Reo button and aluminium button cap
LP conversion all painted in Matt black.

Using a velocity mini on it and I am dead chuffed with it. All of the Reo goodness for a fraction of the price (sorry Reo fans!).

 

[Ben85]

What method did you use to remove the old 510 assembly?
I know stainless steel is tough to drill.

I didn't replace the whole 510, just the centre post. With the clone, the grub screw screws in as you put the atty on. With the genuine Reo one, the post is reverse threaded so this doesn't happen.

 

[muzichead]

I think what he was asking is how did you put a left hand threaded screw in a right hand threaded hole? You either had to replace the entire 510 to the left hand threaded or drilled and tapped the chinese setup to be reverse threaded... He was asking you how you did that?

 

[Ben85]

From what Ben85 said he has switched the entire centre pin including the adjustment screw from a genuine Reo 510 connector, leaving the negative outer part of the clones 510 in place.

@Ben85 did you do any voltage drop tests before and after the modifications? just wondering how much of a difference there is?

That would have been really helpful of me ey - oops.
Have some pics instead...

 

[muzichead]

Forgot that Rob sold just the pin by itself. Very nice work and congrats on your Creo!!! Enjoy...

 

[puffon]

That would have been really helpful of me ey - oops.
Have some pics instead...

Looks good.
Regarding replacing just the pin in the 510.
How is the old one removed.
Is it screwed in or just a press fit.?
Thanks!

 

[Ben85]

It is just press fit. Just push it upwards out of the body.

BTW, everything internal swapped out very easily. No modification was needed.

 

[Ben85]

You didn't have to mod the hole for the button? I replaced my button with an authentic so i could use the metal cap,but i had to make the hole just a little bigger.

Nope, the genuine button slid in perfectly. I was surprised from what I had read.

 

[b.m.]

Just to note, this mod cost me a total of $77 including shipping to me here in the UK. If I wanted the genuine Reo version of exactly what I have (which would be exactly what I have but with a different alloy case and delrin piece) I'd have to pay $195 plus good old customs charges. I am not saying that the genuine is not worth the money, but I could not justify paying over $118 more for nigh on the same performing mod.

That was my exact same thought.I swapped out the contact,spring,and button on mine and am still at less than $60 in it.Really the only reason i even swapped the spring was because i collapsed the original one,otherwise i would not of even changed it,and only reason for the button swap was because i wanted to put the aluminum button cover on it haha.