Reo compatible RBAs
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There is a new bottom feeder atomizer in production now: Aero Vapes | BF by aero, the bottom feeder atomizer
At the moment it is available at: BF - Bottom Feeder Rebuildable Atomizer Stainless Steel - InTaste
It looks like a Chalice copy without a hole in the top cap - feeding air and juice through the connector. I will report its size for the table when I have it in my hands.
At the moment it is available at: BF - Bottom Feeder Rebuildable Atomizer Stainless Steel - InTaste
It looks like a Chalice copy without a hole in the top cap - feeding air and juice through the connector. I will report its size for the table when I have it in my hands.
Well, I will see when I have it here. If it's gurgly and choked, there's always a dremel and a drill bit =)
The cap is threaded, so I rather drill the air hole myself and have it at the right position.
The cap is threaded, so I rather drill the air hole myself and have it at the right position.
That one seems like a fairly simple mod like drilling an airhole on the side would correct the gurgling problem and airholes are easy fixes even with hand drills
Update on the AeroVapes BF: It is actually a tiny bit thinner than a Chalice and it does fit a Mini 14500 - and thus all of the models.
There is not enough room for a hair, though, and I fear it is important to look at the thickness of the coating of the coated models. If you plan on using it on a Mini, better get a plain or satin BF, not the coated black one.
I haven't coiled it yet, though, I can't comment on the vaping side of it.
Edit: Cleaned it, coiled it, works on the 14500 Mini. But the gurgling and stiff draw from the bottom air hole is unbearable. I'll treat it with an o ring in the catch cup and a side air hole and report back.
There is not enough room for a hair, though, and I fear it is important to look at the thickness of the coating of the coated models. If you plan on using it on a Mini, better get a plain or satin BF, not the coated black one.
I haven't coiled it yet, though, I can't comment on the vaping side of it.
Edit: Cleaned it, coiled it, works on the 14500 Mini. But the gurgling and stiff draw from the bottom air hole is unbearable. I'll treat it with an o ring in the catch cup and a side air hole and report back.
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Mini is dirty, pics are unedited, but you get the idea.
I've not yet modded the cap - I'll find some time in the evening.
This is the "Satin" Version - stay away from the ceramic plated ones (Edit: At least for now) - we've heard reports of them being badly plated.
I've not yet modded the cap - I'll find some time in the evening.
This is the "Satin" Version - stay away from the ceramic plated ones (Edit: At least for now) - we've heard reports of them being badly plated.
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Ok, drilled the air hole. This is some serious steel so I needed some ninja Dremel-fu and still scratched the top cap a bit. I don't mind, really, this way the atomizer has some history and personality of its own =)
Performance after drilling and closing the air path on the 510 with an O-Ring in the catch cup is as expected - I can't see a difference in performance to my Chalice II V1, other than the size (The BF is a tiny bit tinier and just fits my Mini 14500 while the Chalice does not). And my self made air hole is in the correct spot - my Chalice needed the top cap dremeled down half a millimeter.
All in all it's a good atomizer. Well made, sturdy and it fits the 14500 mini. But I really recommend drilling that air hole - best to ask someone with a drill stand - and staying away from the ceramic plated versions, because drilling those would possibly result in tears.
AeroVapes should consider offering an air hole drilling service, really.
Performance after drilling and closing the air path on the 510 with an O-Ring in the catch cup is as expected - I can't see a difference in performance to my Chalice II V1, other than the size (The BF is a tiny bit tinier and just fits my Mini 14500 while the Chalice does not). And my self made air hole is in the correct spot - my Chalice needed the top cap dremeled down half a millimeter.
All in all it's a good atomizer. Well made, sturdy and it fits the 14500 mini. But I really recommend drilling that air hole - best to ask someone with a drill stand - and staying away from the ceramic plated versions, because drilling those would possibly result in tears.
AeroVapes should consider offering an air hole drilling service, really.
So after reading this thread (and many others like it) I have come to the conclusion that all bottom fed RBA/RDA's are expensive. So I asked myself why? Does adding a hole for liquid to come through justify a $40 price increase? I just do not get it. For example Smoktech 510 RDA Rebuildable Drip Atomizer as compared to Easily Rebuildable Atomizer - ERA - ERA / Hornet Rebuildable Atomizer Information They look nearly identical, minus a few cosmetic differences and a "hole". Now what justifies the $65 price difference? Sorry for the rant 
So after reading this thread (and many others like it) I have come to the conclusion that all bottom fed RBA/RDA's are expensive. So I asked myself why? Does adding a hole for liquid to come through justify a $40 price increase? I just do not get it. For example Smoktech 510 RDA Rebuildable Drip Atomizer as compared to Easily Rebuildable Atomizer - ERA - ERA / Hornet Rebuildable Atomizer Information They look nearly identical, minus a few cosmetic differences and a "hole". Now what justifies the $65 price difference? Sorry for the rant
The Smok is a cheap clone. The ERA is the original. Smok just cloned it, and bypassed the idea, design, prototyping and all that.
Think about it. What if you came up with a design for a great dripper, spent countless hours and loads of money to get it produced, then China copies it and and sells it for 1/10th of the price. What would you feel?
I was using the two as a comparison as far as design is concerned not whether it's a clone or an original. One being a straight dripping RDA and the other being a BF Compatible RDA. Since one allows juice to flow up to the coil does that justify things price wise? As far as clones are concerned, if it can be cloned, China will clone it. Good or bad, more people will buy it because of the price point. Is it fair to the original creator of the product, in a sense no but does the majority of the vaping public care? no. To simplify my point: Why are BF Compatible RDA/RBA's so much more expensive compared to their counterparts, when the main primary difference is the ability for juice to flow upwards into the coil? i.e. A "Hole"
>But I really recommend drilling that air hole - best to ask someone with a drill stand
is that the same thing as a drill press?
all i have is a dremel (but totally lack dremel-fu) and am trying to figure out how best to drill on a rounded surface.
]
also, anyone know the hole size on the stock rm2?
is that the same thing as a drill press?
all i have is a dremel (but totally lack dremel-fu) and am trying to figure out how best to drill on a rounded surface.
]
also, anyone know the hole size on the stock rm2?
None BF ERA costs the same...
But pretty much the best BF atty for any Reo is the RM2 at around $40, and worth every cent.
Yes - I meant a drill press, sorry.
You can do it with a dremel, I did, but you may scratch the finish a bit, like I did.
Use any thick sticky tape (gaffer tape, duct tape) and put a layer of it around the top cap. Mark the spot where you want your air hole to be on the tape. Use the tiniest little drill bit you have (I started with 0.5 mm), then work up the drill bit size until you have the right size hole.
If you can, use a punch to create a little dent in the top cap where the air hole should be before drilling, that way you won't slip with the tip of the drill bit (in theory, I did anyway).
Use a vice (vise?) to fix the top cap, or find another way to hold it in position.
Drill through the tape into the top cap.
You can do it with a dremel, I did, but you may scratch the finish a bit, like I did.
Use any thick sticky tape (gaffer tape, duct tape) and put a layer of it around the top cap. Mark the spot where you want your air hole to be on the tape. Use the tiniest little drill bit you have (I started with 0.5 mm), then work up the drill bit size until you have the right size hole.
If you can, use a punch to create a little dent in the top cap where the air hole should be before drilling, that way you won't slip with the tip of the drill bit (in theory, I did anyway).
Use a vice (vise?) to fix the top cap, or find another way to hold it in position.
Drill through the tape into the top cap.
I know, I have one on order. Still holding to my argument though. I don't think an RDA should cost $20-$60 more just because it has the ability to be bottom fed.
You are comparing apples to oranges. Compare a Dripper Cyclone to a BF Cyclone, some places they are the same price others $5 more for the BF. Compare one of them to the Cyclone Clone, like you are with the ERA and you'll find what you do with any Original vs Clone comparison.
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