No, don't use nylon. Use either 316 or 18-8 stainless. I would get the 2mm x 2.5mm cup point 18-8 stainless.
REO Technical Issues/Shop Talk
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No, don't use nylon. Use either 316 or 18-8 stainless. I would get the 2mm x 2.5mm cup point 18-8 stainless.
thanks hun. Dadgummit Bolt depot is the same I think on the derringer ones. But they are a bit cheaper.
thanks that's what I wuz thinkin but wuzn't sure
When you're shopping for metric set screws, the first number is always the diameter. The second number is always the length. Ex: 2mm x 2.5mm is 2mm diameter x 2.5mm long.
Nuppin Grub Screws:
The screws are the same size for the center post and negative holes in the deck. Link is directly from Peter's(pdib) thread(ECF/muzichead)
Set Screw - 18-8 Stainless Steel Cup Point M2(Metric 2mmDiam), 2.5mm Long, 0.4mm Pitch - Hex key 0.9mm or 0.035"
McMaster-Carr
I put the cup point grub screw on the end of a .9mm hex key and sand the cup point a little with fine sand paper to knock off any sharp edges
The screws are the same size for the center post and negative holes in the deck. Link is directly from Peter's(pdib) thread(ECF/muzichead)
Set Screw - 18-8 Stainless Steel Cup Point M2(Metric 2mmDiam), 2.5mm Long, 0.4mm Pitch - Hex key 0.9mm or 0.035"
McMaster-Carr
I put the cup point grub screw on the end of a .9mm hex key and sand the cup point a little with fine sand paper to knock off any sharp edges
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yeah this part I get, it's the 4-40, M2 things like that I have no idea on. I really do appreciate your help hun.
Oh great.......thanks!!
It's a little confusing, because Americans size screws a little differently than metric.
4-40 is an American screw size. The first number (4) is a numerical size, assigned to a certain diameter. A #4 screw is .112" diameter, or about 2.85mm. The second number (40) is the number of threads per inch.
With metric size screws, the M indicates Metric. The 2 indicates that the diameter is 2mm. So, an M2 is a metric size screw, 2mm diameter. An M2.5 is 2.5mm diameter, etc.
I have to drill an air hole in a new virgin RM2 cap. I like to build my coils as high as possible in my RM2 for the throat hit and taste. I'm thinking of drilling the new hole higher than the stock hole would be. Seems like it would breathe better. If anyone has any experience in this or any general input, I'm all ears
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If i recall the stock hole is 3/64" but i have had much success with a 1/16" hole and now all my RM2's are so drilled.
They are easy to drill because they are chrome-plated brass.
T
They are easy to drill because they are chrome-plated brass.
T
If the holes above the coil you'd just be sucking air. Personally I wouldn't want to go any higher. I know when I made those old were they rm7's ? Into top breathers I drilled the holes as low as I could.I have to drill an air hole in a new virgin RM2 cap. I like to build my coils as high as possible in my RM2 for the throat hit and taste. I'm thinking of drilling the new hole higher than the stock hole would be. Seems like it would breathe better. If anyone has any experience in this or any general input, I'm all ears
Okay, figured something out with my P67 and thought I'd share in case anyone else was running into the same issue:
The positive contact is raised and the edges are rather sharp and pulling the battery straight out was starting to damage the wraps.
Easy fix- lock it, then take out the batt. Derp.
Maybe I'm only thick one it took two weeks to figure this out.
Edit: only applies to flat top batts, nipple top wouldn't ever notice.
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The positive contact is raised and the edges are rather sharp and pulling the battery straight out was starting to damage the wraps.
Easy fix- lock it, then take out the batt. Derp.
Maybe I'm only thick one it took two weeks to figure this out.
Edit: only applies to flat top batts, nipple top wouldn't ever notice.
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
I checked it out, and you are right, it is rather sharp. I always pry down on the top of the batt with my finger nail, then pull it out.
Yep. I take mine out the same way.
My other vice besides caffeine and nicotine is nail biting, so that's a no go for me. Lol.
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
A7 that's what those things were. They were a decent little arty when the bottom breather was .... off stabilizing the center pin and making them too breathers.
a little tip I saw on one of Rob's videos........wrap some packing tape around the battery, leave enough for the ends to make a tab when they come together. Grab the tab, pull down and out.
If you like to build your coils high and dill your new hole even with the higher coils, Why would you be sucking air ???
You're right but that's the trick, isn't it? I need to eyeball it correctly the first time--both in longitude and latitude
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You will need perfect tooling, & skills if you don't want to slip & slide your way into a new hole on that small curve.
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