yeah, amazing actually. i kinda miss all the time spent sparking it up with the cam-welder. now its just zip-zap wire tap. i've made at least 3 months of wires...way easy.
waiting on my 30gauge silver to test that...but nickel is easy-peasy.
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yeah, amazing actually. i kinda miss all the time spent sparking it up with the cam-welder. now its just zip-zap wire tap. i've made at least 3 months of wires...way easy.
waiting on my 30gauge silver to test that...but nickel is easy-peasy.
OMG. LOL. You crazy. LOL.
Where, pray tell, did you get that steel stock base?
Where, pray tell, did you get that steel stock base?
My spot weld - fixed base and wand setup.
I made the wand with readily available parts incase anyone wanted to make one.
- the shaft is a 3/8" pex toilet riser part ~$2.50 from lowes
- the pex was a little flimsy, so I reinforced it with the handle of a used epoxy brush. A big pack of epoxy brushes is a couple bucks at harbor freight.
- the cap charge button is just a radio shack tact switch. It's not rated for this, but I tested it and it worked. So it might not last.
- the weld lead is 12g solid wire soldered to the blue 16g wire
- wires are just some I had.... The blue is 16g fine strand silicone shielded, and the tact switch wires are some ~24g servo wires.
The base is just some 2" steel round stock I had, with a hole drilled in the center for the 12g solid wire. There is screw coming in from the side to lock it in place. Another piece of 16g standed wire is soldered to the solid wire.
Breaktru....I'm anointing you the Touch Master....Sounds a little pervy but its a complement I promise
I have decided to give the touch method another try, but I needed some Touch Master approved clips.
I am submitting the below clip for approval
-These Radio Shack 2-1/2" Insulated-Grip Alligator Clips
-12g solid wire ran up to tip of the clip and filled with solder and sanded flat
- The top is two pieces of 12g solid wire soldered and sanded
- The solid wire will be soldered to the cap
- The other lead will be similar except with flexible stranded wire
Breaktru....I'm anointing you the Touch Master....Sounds a little pervy but its a complement I promise
I have decided to give the touch method another try, but I needed some Touch Master approved clips.
I am submitting the below clip for approval
-These Radio Shack 2-1/2" Insulated-Grip Alligator Clips
-12g solid wire ran up to tip of the clip and filled with solder and sanded flat
- The top is two pieces of 12g solid wire soldered and sanded
- The solid wire will be soldered to the cap
- The other lead will be similar except with flexible stranded wire
Haaaa! touch master. that's what she said...
Looks like the same style clips that I'm using. Got a bunch about 10yrs ago from my ole man.
As long as the spring tension feels tight. Good job w/ the soldering flat. Makes a difference as far as my welding went.
I only used 20ga wires. But that shouldn't matter.
Haaaa! touch master. that's what she said...
Looks like the same style clips that I'm using. Got a bunch about 10yrs ago from my ole man.
As long as the spring tension feels tight. Good job w/ the soldering flat. Makes a difference as far as my welding went.
I only used 20ga wires. But that shouldn't matter.
Yeah, the 12g is plenty but its the only solid wire I had. It's kind of nice because it's rigid but not solid, so it can be manipulated kind of like a helping hand. I figure a good helping of epoxy on the inside box where it comes through will hold it. The other lead will be the auto parts store 20g stranded I bought for the dna but didn't like.
hmm, all the sudden ive noticed my cap is discharging on its own, as soon as i stop supplying power to the cap it starts to drain fast. ive tried a new cap, a new lm2577 board, eliminated everything except the board, the cap, and wires...have it bread-boarded. not sure what the hell is going on. ideas?
Sorry out of my league now. The only thing I have and it is more of question....If the battery powering the lm2577 is low would it suck power back?
wonder if i jacked up the diode. ill test that...thanks break.
edit: yep, break was dead on...somehow i blew up one of my diodes. wonder how i did that.
edit2: silver still eludes me, no matter what zapper i make!! i just can't get silver to stick...30 gauge, 28 gauge...to 32 kanthal and nichrome.
edit: yep, break was dead on...somehow i blew up one of my diodes. wonder how i did that.
edit2: silver still eludes me, no matter what zapper i make!! i just can't get silver to stick...30 gauge, 28 gauge...to 32 kanthal and nichrome.
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wonder if i jacked up the diode. ill test that...thanks break.
edit: yep, break was dead on...somehow i blew up one of my diodes. wonder how i did that.
edit2: silver still eludes me, no matter what zapper i make!! i just can't get silver to stick...30 gauge, 28 gauge...to 32 kanthal and nichrome.
I don't understand any of this - isn't your charge switch after the diode? Once the switch is opened up again there should be no feedback whatsoever; the cap should be isolated.
You are using a charge switch, right?Try cleaning your silver with fine sandpaper or emery cloth before welding.
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i think i may have inadvertently damaged my originally installed diode (ordered 2 thank god). after replacing, everything was back to normal.
i have the LM2577 out to diode to cap. the switch is after the battery on the LM2577 in.
i have the LM2577 out to diode to cap. the switch is after the battery on the LM2577 in.
You should have a N.O. momentary switch between the cap and the incoming DC (there would be no need for the diode) - push it to charge the cap and when it is released, the cap will be completly removed from the power supply. The main switch is used to power down the whole unit.
Why use a diode when it is not needed and prone to spikes.
Edit: you are also drawing a large instantaneous current when switching the unit on if you don't add a charge switch or at least a current limiting resistor before the cap - that is what probably shorted the diode.
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