Resistance-No Resistance wire welder

[dezyner]

hi guys, gotta ask, this looked like "the" spot. The instructables doesn't have an LED, and would like to build that in, where in the schematic would an LED go? between what components? thanks in advance, as always. cheers.

 

[Scope666]

My best buddy recoils his Kanger EVODS and was complaining about an occasional rubbery taste. After I put together my welder, I suggested he use nr wire also. He said it stopped giving him the rubbery taste, probably because he has rebuilt his 10 EVOD heads dozens of times.
I have an Oddy clone, Steam Machine and two Penelope (Euphoria) clone. I could never get the Oddy clone to taste as good as the Steam Machine, plus it is to bulky and has a cool vape. I use my two Euphoria's all the time now. And with the welded wires it is so easy to set-up now, and you don't have to worry about the KNOTS chocking the wick. I like having my first and last wrap the N/R wire, from .5 to 1 wrap, it keeps the coil from getting pulled while installing.
Don't get to crazy when you get your welder working. If you prepare enough wire to last you months, that means it will be months before you need to use the welder again.

Hey, do you have a good link for those Euphoria's? I'd be curious to try one of those... I'm still searching for that perfect delivery device. ;-)

Thanks for the tips too!!!

 

[Scope666]

hi guys, gotta ask, this looked like "the" spot. The instructables doesn't have an LED, and would like to build that in, where in the schematic would an LED go? between what components? thanks in advance, as always. cheers.

I think that would depend on what you want the LED to indicate. If you added a power switch to the circuit that had to be "on" before you could charge with the charge button, you could put it just upstream of the on / off switch, which would definitely go before the LM2577, because after that board you're at 35 volts. Also the LED would have to be able to handle the 4.2 volts coming out of a freshly charged 18650 battery.

 

[dezyner]

I think that would depend on what you want the LED to indicate. If you added a power switch to the circuit that had to be "on" before you could charge with the charge button, you could put it just upstream of the on / off switch, which would definitely go before the LM2577, because after that board you're at 35 volts. Also the LED would have to be able to handle the 4.2 volts coming out of a freshly charged 18650 battery.

thanks Scope. was trying for LED to indicate voltage...so you could see what the voltage was? i made a welder out of an old disposable camera flash for myself, which works fine for me, but was trying to hook a buddy up with one with all the safety stuff i could care less about. lol, you know, fuses, boards and momentary switch, whistles and bells like that. lol, here's the parts list I'm working from, and the LED is Mini DC 0V To 99.9V 0-99.9V 100V LED Digital Panel Volt Voltage Voltmeter Meter...just trying to figure out where the LED get's put in-line...

Batter Holder: BH-18650-W-ND
Project Box: 377-1165-ND
Momentary Switch: 507PB-ND
Resistor: 3.6W-10-ND
Fuse: 507-1032-ND
LM2577 Board: Ebay
Diode: 1N914B-ND
Capacitor: 399-6556-ND
Smooth Jaw Alligator clips: 314-1018-ND

 

[Scope666]

thanks Scope. was trying for LED to indicate voltage...so you could see what the voltage was? i made a welder out of an old disposable camera flash for myself, which works fine for me, but was trying to hook a buddy up with one with all the safety stuff i could care less about. lol, you know, fuses, boards and momentary switch, whistles and bells like that. lol, here's the parts list I'm working from, and the LED is Mini DC 0V To 99.9V 0-99.9V 100V LED Digital Panel Volt Voltage Voltmeter Meter...just trying to figure out where the LED get's put in-line...

Batter Holder: BH-18650-W-ND
Project Box: 377-1165-ND
Momentary Switch: 507PB-ND
Resistor: 3.6W-10-ND
Fuse: 507-1032-ND
LM2577 Board: Ebay
Diode: 1N914B-ND
Capacitor: 399-6556-ND
Smooth Jaw Alligator clips: 314-1018-ND

Ah, I think the way to do that would be to have it right after the LM2577 board, since you have to be after that board to read anything higher than what the battery is putting out... but somebody smarter than me can probably confirm.

 

[turnforward]

Hey, do you have a good link for those Euphoria's? I'd be curious to try one of those... I'm still searching for that perfect delivery device. ;-)

Thanks for the tips too!!!

Here is the link for it. You can get 10% off when you enter "10off" coupon code. My review of it is on the page, the newest one.

Euforia Tank

 

[Scope666]

Here is the link for it. You can get 10% off when you enter "10off" coupon code. My review of it is on the page, the newest one.

Euforia Tank

Awesome ... is that the same size ceramic or a mini version? Do you do micro coils in it or more of a standard build?

Thx!

 

[turnforward]

Awesome ... is that the same size ceramic or a mini version? Do you do micro coils in it or more of a standard build?

Thx!

Yea, it is about the same size as the Oddy. I haven't really tried Micro-coils, but lately I have been using 2 inches of 30G Kanthal on a doubled 3mm wick. That gives me 7 wraps plus 2 wraps of the no-rez, and that is with spaces between at 1.5oms. You "COULD" probably get 12 to maybe 14 TIGHT wraps of 30g wire in the ceramic. Thinner wick tends to flood about half the time but the 3mm wick doesn't. If your 3mm wick feels course and not soft to the touch (Some suppliers do and some don't), I found it's a good idea rinsing (while squeezing) it and letting it dry (if it doesn't feel soft).

 

[Scope666]

Yea, it is about the same size as the Oddy. I haven't really tried Micro-coils, but lately I have been using 2 inches of 30G Kanthal on a doubled 3mm wick. That gives me 7 wraps plus 2 wraps of the no-rez, and that is with spaces between at 1.5oms. You "COULD" probably get 12 to maybe 14 TIGHT wraps of 30g wire in the ceramic. Thinner wick tends to flood about half the time but the 3mm wick doesn't. If your 3mm wick feels course and not soft to the touch (Some suppliers do and some don't), I found it's a good idea rinsing (while squeezing) it and letting it dry (if it doesn't feel soft).

That's a good tip, I'll have to try that. Right now I only have 2 mm, so I'll have to order some 3. I've been hearing good things about the German silica, gotta try and hunt that down.

 

[dezyner]

my LM2577 board only charges to 31.5 volts, no more....bad board?

pot all the way open, it will reduce voltage by turning the pot the other way, but wide open i am only getting 31.5... replaced the diode i was using with a larger one, nothing, and i'm using a 50v cap....

thanks in advance

 

[turnforward]

my LM2577 board only charges to 31.5 volts, no more....bad board?

pot all the way open, it will reduce voltage by turning the pot the other way, but wide open i am only getting 31.5... replaced the diode i was using with a larger one, nothing, and i'm using a 50v cap....

thanks in advance

I had a bad LM board too. Just meter it from the connections on the board before the diode, that's what the board is producing. The input side of the board from the battery should meter 3.7 volts. The diode only stops the current from going the wrong way.

 

[dezyner]

anybody know of any boards with LED and that go over 35 volts? like maybe up to 60V? thanks.

 

[BJ43]

anybody know of any boards with LED and that go over 35 volts? like maybe up to 60V? thanks.

I am using a 42v, have a 60v but have seen no need for it. Led separate.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...no-resistance-wire-welder-32.html#post8381620

Bought this but have not used it yet.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Max-4...t_Portable_Car_Appliances&hash=item232e8a910c
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-3-Digi...561?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c7930061

 

[dezyner]

I am using a 42v, have a 60v but have seen no need for it. Led separate.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...no-resistance-wire-welder-32.html#post8381620

Bought this but have not used it yet.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Max-4...t_Portable_Car_Appliances&hash=item232e8a910c
Mini 3 Digital LED DC 0 100 V Red Volt Voltage Meter Voltmeter 3 28V Power | eBay

thanks, got a bad LM board, so was going to grab another and saw this.

1pcs DC DC LM2577 Step Up 3 5 30V to 4 30V Booster Power Module | eBay

i've got the LED and a bad board, so I thought I could just get this board and kill two birds with one stone, so while i was at it, just wondered if there are larger volt boards for the thicker wires. 42 would be cool I'm sure. thanks.

 

[Scope666]

I had a bad LM board too. Just meter it from the connections on the board before the diode, that's what the board is producing. The input side of the board from the battery should meter 3.7 volts. The diode only stops the current from going the wrong way.

So my board is maxing out at 31.43, not quite hitting 35 volts. I did manage to get a couple of good welds, but it's like 1 in 15 at this point. Do you think the extra 3 volts makes a big difference? I also added a second cap in parallel to boost the micro farads to 2000, that seemed to help a bit, but it's very iffy at this point. If I hold the button for like 4 seconds or more it's a pretty big spark, big enough to remove a mm off the end. Not sure what to do...


edit: forgot to add, I'm using .999 silver 30 gauge NR and 32 gauge Kanthal A1 if that makes a difference.


another edit: I think I found the magic numbers for this scenario (found on another forum) I dropped the voltage down to 27 volts, but kept the 2nd capacitor in for a total of 2000 uf. Got a good bond on the first try. I guess balancing the voltage and the uf is an art.

 

[dezyner]

So my board is maxing out at 31.43, not quite hitting 35 volts. I did manage to get a couple of good welds, but it's like 1 in 15 at this point. Do you think the extra 3 volts makes a big difference? I also added a second cap in parallel to boost the micro farads to 2000, that seemed to help a bit, but it's very iffy at this point. If I hold the button for like 4 seconds or more it's a pretty big spark, big enough to remove a mm off the end. Not sure what to do...


edit: forgot to add, I'm using .999 silver 30 gauge NR and 32 gauge Kanthal A1 if that makes a difference.


another edit: I think I found the magic numbers for this scenario (found on another forum) I dropped the voltage down to 27 volts, but kept the 2nd capacitor in for a total of 2000 uf. Got a good bond on the first try. I guess balancing the voltage and the uf is an art.

I've been using a disposable camera board i "rigged" up, and I had issues trying to weld silver NR also, so I went to Nickel. The silver is softer and has a lower melting point. either didn't tack on, or melted off the other end of the kanthal. so i went to nickel with much better results. you might try nickel and see if it helps.

Interested to see what the solution to your board max is, mine is very similar to your max charge, 31 and some change for volts, can't get it to 35 volts, so I started looking at some new boards. the only time it would really affect much for me is trying to weld 28g stuff for low res. thanks all.

 

[Scope666]

I've been using a disposable camera board i "rigged" up, and I had issues trying to weld silver NR also, so I went to Nickel. The silver is softer and has a lower melting point. either didn't tack on, or melted off the other end of the kanthal. so i went to nickel with much better results. you might try nickel and see if it helps.

Interested to see what the solution to your board max is, mine is very similar to your max charge, 31 and some change for volts, can't get it to 35 volts, so I started looking at some new boards. the only time it would really affect much for me is trying to weld 28g stuff for low res. thanks all.

So I think the way it works, is you can compensate for lower voltage by increasing the microfarads (μF) ... so in my case, instead of using the 1000 in the parts list by itself, I happened to order a spare, so I took that 2nd one and wired it in parallel with the 1st, giving me 2000 μF ... that seemed to improve things. I think at this point my issue is mostly around the silver. I have ordered some nickel as I have a feeling that will make life easier. I noticed on the Ithaka forum most of the guys are using that.


edit: just did a test of joining two pieces of 32 Kanthal together, and the bond is much stronger ... this silver crap is for the birds. ;-)

 

[turnforward]

So my board is maxing out at 31.43, not quite hitting 35 volts. I did manage to get a couple of good welds, but it's like 1 in 15 at this point. Do you think the extra 3 volts makes a big difference? I also added a second cap in parallel to boost the micro farads to 2000, that seemed to help a bit, but it's very iffy at this point. If I hold the button for like 4 seconds or more it's a pretty big spark, big enough to remove a mm off the end. Not sure what to do...

edit: forgot to add, I'm using .999 silver 30 gauge NR and 32 gauge Kanthal A1 if that makes a difference.

another edit: I think I found the magic numbers for this scenario (found on another forum) I dropped the voltage down to 27 volts, but kept the 2nd capacitor in for a total of 2000 uf. Got a good bond on the first try. I guess balancing the voltage and the uf is an art.

I remember when I was looking for my LMBoard on Amazon and EBay there were some that were listed as only going to 30V. The one I got was rated at 35V but I can almost go up two more volts.

I remember seeing people on this thread talking about using higher rated Caps I remember something like 2200uf. They were talking "probably" about the same things as you two were saying. I would check around the last 100 or so posts here to find them.

 

[Scope666]

I remember when I was looking for my LMBoard on Amazon and EBay there were some that were listed as only going to 30V. The one I got was rated at 35V but I can almost go up two more volts.

I remember seeing people on this thread talking about using higher rated Caps I remember something like 2200uf. They were talking "probably" about the same things as you two were saying. I would check around the last 100 or so posts here to find them.

There's a lot of great info here:

breaktru.com

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...no-resistance-wire-welder-51.html#post8438876

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_egiFI_57VwVUo0RHV6cE5ENms/edit

From what I've been gathering, it's all in balancing volts to capacitor microfards ... I got stronger bonds with the voltage at 27 volts / 2000 μF then with 32 volts / 1000 μF. I just received a new LM2577 so I might try the 35 volt / 1000 combo again just for giggles.

 

[dsy5]

Sometimes the pot values varies a bit between production runs — you may want to remove the pot and check to see if the pot goes from 0 to 10,000 Ω... between the middle leg and the center. End to end it should read 10,000Ω.

You can definitely make it work with lower voltages by upping the µFs.