The screw post nicking the wire would be an easy fix, but I can see a fixed toothless clip working better if mounted properly so holds up, or can be easily replaced. ya dude, take it from me, those dimensions are pretty tight for what would have to go in there.
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I built my ACDC v2 in one of those RS boxes. LM2596 buck module, 2AA batt holder, DC jack, DPDT toggle switch, fire switch, tact switch, VM.
As long as the VM and booster aren't real big for this unit, should be enough room, maybe
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
As long as the VM and booster aren't real big for this unit, should be enough room, maybe
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
Bount....chickaa....wow...wowww....I'm a welder baby
Good bye SOB'n micro crimp tubes!!! I so hated you.
Huge shout out to all the contributors....mre777, breaktru, etc!!!
The extra caps make a world of difference, the brass alligator clips worked perfectly, all in all a very simple project to create a priceless tool!!!
Thanks everyone
Good bye SOB'n micro crimp tubes!!! I so hated you.
Huge shout out to all the contributors....mre777, breaktru, etc!!!
The extra caps make a world of difference, the brass alligator clips worked perfectly, all in all a very simple project to create a priceless tool!!!
Thanks everyone
Bount....chickaa....wow...wowww....I'm a welder baby
Good bye SOB'n micro crimp tubes!!! I so hated you.
Huge shout out to all the contributors....mre777, breaktru, etc!!!
The extra caps make a world of difference, the brass alligator clips worked perfectly, all in all a very simple project to create a priceless tool!!!
Thanks everyone
Yeah baby!
Yeah the 2x4x1 would be pretty tight without a screen and addition battery for the screen.
But I think this slightly larger box (28mmx66mmx110mm - 1.102"x2.598"x4.330") will work with some creative battery and cap placement....it even has 9v battery door.
Easy to replace AA battery location
Bount....chickaa....wow...wowww....I'm a welder baby
Good bye SOB'n micro crimp tubes!!! I so hated you.
Huge shout out to all the contributors....mre777, breaktru, etc!!!
The extra caps make a world of difference, the brass alligator clips worked perfectly, all in all a very simple project to create a priceless tool!!!
Thanks everyone
What is your total capacitance after the additional caps - I am going to pick some up after work and might as well go with a single cap at rated value to save room. And did you say you got those alligator clips at Radio Shack?
Yeah the 2x4x1 would be pretty tight without a screen and addition battery for the screen.
But I think this slightly larger box (28mmx66mmx110mm - 1.102"x2.598"x4.330") will work with some creative battery and cap placement....it even has 9v battery door.
Easy to replace AA battery location
Looks good Bradley.
Just my 2 cents again... these pennies are adding up. Must be a couple of bucks by now
I'm not referring to your box build Bradley. This is a general statement. Nice work BTW.
This sparky thingy is something we use on a bench... To me... size is not important. Large, Medium..... Unless your going to carry it around and make some coils in the bar, in your car, at the gym, ........
Just another bench tool
Yes set off 10 clips from radio shack
Total capacitance = Unmarked AAA Fuji cap thought to be 120uF + 120uF + 100uF = 340uF
Yes a single cap would be very nice
Looks good Bradley.
Just my 2 cents again... these pennies are adding up. Must be a couple of bucks by now
I'm not referring to your box build Bradley. This is a general statement. Nice work BTW.
This sparky thingy is something we use on a bench... To me... size is not important. Large, Medium..... Unless your going to carry it around and make some coils in the bar, in your car, at the gym, ........
Just another bench tool
Fell off a truck
Do you think there will be any impedance issues with the Wonmeter display like the cheap dmm's?
Bount....chickaa....wow...wowww....I'm a welder baby
Good bye SOB'n micro crimp tubes!!! I so hated you.
Huge shout out to all the contributors....mre777, breaktru, etc!!!
The extra caps make a world of difference, the brass alligator clips worked perfectly, all in all a very simple project to create a priceless tool!!!
Thanks everyone
is that silver, bap? what was the magic number?
Fell off a truck
Do you think there will be any impedance issues with the Wonmeter display like the cheap dmm's?
I see my name on one of those...lol
Just got a couple cameras will try this if I can find all the parts.....
Thanks to all of you for all the testing.
Sorry forgot that all important info....I was just excited it worked.
I don't have any of the dead soft silver NR wire or typical NR wire
Wire is 30g Kanthal and 32g or 34g silver coated jewelry wire from Michale's/Hobby Lobby.
The first couple attempts where at 75v and they didn't hold...but I wasn't getting a good overlapping parallel touch either, the next and pictured attempt I bumped the volts up a couple ~78v but also got the good overlapping parallel touch. I'm going to experiment some more and get some other NR wire...but I want to get it a box first
Sorry forgot that all important info....I was just excited it worked.
I don't have any of the dead soft silver NR wire or typical NR wire
Wire is 30g Kanthal and 32g or 34g silver coated jewelry wire from Michale's/Hobby Lobby.
The first couple attempts where at 75v and they didn't hold...but I wasn't getting a good overlapping parallel touch either, the next and pictured attempt I bumped the volts up a couple ~78v but also got the good overlapping parallel touch. I'm going to experiment some more and get some other NR wire...but I want to get it a box first
well, great job buddy. silver is sure driving me bonkers...my nickel comes today so i should be able to test with that also. i actually got 1 really good silver connection last night, so i now know im much closer than i ever was. every other wire combo i have (kanthal to nichrome, both to each other and themselves) can get to stick so solid, but still, silver is super hit or miss.
Now that we are under 300v would a display like this work? After the issues of a cheap dmm I worry about the meter/displays.
This one is larger than the Won meter one, but in the US.
This one is larger than the Won meter one, but in the US.
I think the key is going to be mastering the larger contact area touch.
Nice Bradley. I betcha the speed bump w/ no warning sign in front of your house was not the DOT doing.Fell off a truck
I checked it out the other day. I think it's a "Typo" The input impedance states: 100 ohms. Must be 100M ohms. Even the cheap-o's are 1M
I'll try it before installing for sure.
I've been looking at the schematic on post 51.
If you change the Zener diode, to a lower value, the circuit would turn off at a lower voltage, no?
If one were to dial in the correct Zener voltage, the circuit would stop at a preferred voltage. The fire button could be closed permanently.
Perhaps, different value zeners connected to a dip switch?
If you change the Zener diode, to a lower value, the circuit would turn off at a lower voltage, no?
If one were to dial in the correct Zener voltage, the circuit would stop at a preferred voltage. The fire button could be closed permanently.
Perhaps, different value zeners connected to a dip switch?
Now we're talkin'. I forgot about those things. Yep, that would work as far as my memory serves me. It should turn off at the value of the Zener. Nice.
Ok....I have been playing around trying a few things....I grabbed a 3 position return to center toggle and I'm really liking it for adjusting voltage
Anyway on to the important stuff. I have the one in the above picture on a single AA and combined total of 340uf. I have another one running on two AA's in series and combined total of 520uF. I can't really tell a difference....the 520 might be a smidge more stable, don't notice a ton of difference in charge time. Sorry I know that doesn't really say a lot.
My NR wire blows....thin silver coated jewelry wire. I have to get a perfect touch and then the joint breaks if you get after a bit.
However two pieces of kanthal is awesome. If I get a perfect touch, great.... if not I hold both wires in my free clamp right next to the part of the weld that stuck, make sure the wires are nice cozy, give it a charge, and touch the two wires to the fixed clamp, then it is just like a perfect touch. Pulling the wires straight apart almost always breaks away from the weld, and pulling really hard.
I need to get some good NR wire before I know for sure, but I'm fairly confidant that with good clean similar size wires this is going to work great.
You guys have fun playing for a bit, time to turn my attention back to the DNA builds
Anyway on to the important stuff. I have the one in the above picture on a single AA and combined total of 340uf. I have another one running on two AA's in series and combined total of 520uF. I can't really tell a difference....the 520 might be a smidge more stable, don't notice a ton of difference in charge time. Sorry I know that doesn't really say a lot.
My NR wire blows....thin silver coated jewelry wire. I have to get a perfect touch and then the joint breaks if you get after a bit.
However two pieces of kanthal is awesome. If I get a perfect touch, great.... if not I hold both wires in my free clamp right next to the part of the weld that stuck, make sure the wires are nice cozy, give it a charge, and touch the two wires to the fixed clamp, then it is just like a perfect touch. Pulling the wires straight apart almost always breaks away from the weld, and pulling really hard.
I need to get some good NR wire before I know for sure, but I'm fairly confidant that with good clean similar size wires this is going to work great.
You guys have fun playing for a bit, time to turn my attention back to the DNA builds
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