Nada, I am wiring the leads straight to the cap. With the camera boards, the post were needed to hook a dmm up to and see the voltage, but with the 2577 board, the voltage is regulated so it is not a necessary step.
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Nada, I am wiring the leads straight to the cap. With the camera boards, the post were needed to hook a dmm up to and see the voltage, but with the 2577 board, the voltage is regulated so it is not a necessary step.
Ahhhh.....I gotcha. Good thought. What gauge wire for the leads and are you using a strain relief on the wires?
Steve
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22 gauge is good for 10 amps, I used 18 gauge on my first one and it is a little stiffer than I would like. Yes on strain reliefs, I have boxes of them at work, but for the first one I built I just made a ghetto relief: wrapped wire in heat shrink and then slightly under dill the through hole, then zip tie from back.
I would think that it would be ok as long as it was a good contact on the switch and the caps did not have a charge.. You may want to make a push button and a bleed resistor for the cap bank in case you need to discharge in order to switch between caps because you made a mistake.
Yeah, I was planning on a bleed off. I will try it later, out and about today. I will solder the caps to the deans connector and then try a switch also. That way I can easily change out the caps with or with a switch.
My new magic number is 12.35v. It's really 75v with a 5meg resistor in series w/ the panel meter which is now very stable.
You lost me
My thinking was to use the adjustable boost module to vary the voltage and use the cap bank to adjust things also. Thus letting you dial in wattage and duration a little. My intent is to hopefully give a little broader adjustment and more versatility for possible other uses.
I could be way of a base and there be an easier way to achive the same thing.
Side note.....the other day my cap charge switch stuck and I didn't notice it. I was using a mean well 4.5 amp 24v power supply and a 4700uF cap. The weird thing is it didn't blow the power supply fuse, the kanthal pieces just got nice and orange for a sec and then I got the lead off and was wondering what the eff and notice the dmm still showing 24v.
What I was meaning was that the pot is removed and you use a switch to add the resistances to vary the voltage out - with a larger cap you can achieve the same charges with less voltage and then be able to select different charging rates via the selector switch (like in the original greek unit).
Gotcha....any reason for the switches over the pot?
My thinking that the display would show the charge voltage and I could add up the capacitance that I was using, and I was planning on making a chart with voltage one way and the possible capacitance levels the other way and populate the joules/wattage. That way if i felt like it needed a little more grunt I could switch in some more capacitance and dial in the voltage.
Sorry if I'm getting a little overboard or off topic as I have hopes for more than welding aty wires, because that can be done much more simply.
Only that in an enclosed box. rather than drilling a hole to get at it, a multi-selector switch would be convenient.
So I took a note from AzPlumber and went to a local thrift store and there sat an HP printer power adapter with an output of 32vDC at 1560mA for 3$. I just had to get it The only cap I have on hand right now other then from the flash circuits is a 4700uF 50v one I had laying around. It blew threw the silver wire, melted it every time. Im gona get some different valued caps next week to play around with but the adapter is nice because its screwed together not glued like most of them are. I looked inside and i think I may have room to add the components right into the original box. Should make a nice little bench top mini welder when i get it dialed in.
The only cap I have on hand right now other then from the flash circuits is a 4700uF 50v one I had laying around. It blew threw the silver wire, melted it every time. Im gona get some different valued caps next week to play around with but the adapter is nice because its screwed together not glued like most of them are. I looked inside and i think I may have room to add the components right into the original box. Should make a nice little bench top mini welder when i get it dialed in.
So I took a note from AzPlumber and went to a local thrift store and there sat an HP printer power adapter with an output of 32vDC at 1560mA for 3$. I just had to get it
Did you bring down the charged cap to between 17 and 20v?
I have one of the LM2577 boards right here bap so I gave it a go with the 4700uF cap at 24v. I ran the board off a 9volt battery and jumped a quick circuit together with gator clips. 30 gauge .999 pure silver and 30 gauge nichrome, got a good weld right off the bat and tried for a few more to make sure it was not a fluke. The next few weren't working out so well so I look at my setup and noticed the gator clips I was using to hold the NR wire and nichrome were not making good contact with the wire. Found a better set and had 7 out of 7 good welds after that. Damn I think that's my magic number bap
It is a fixed volt supply and I don't have the parts on hand to put a regulator or a voltage divider on it.
I kinda wish I had gotten nickel, seems it may be the better choice for the welding.
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