The largest current draw is instantaneous, then rapidly declines - 1/4 watt is probably OK; I used a 1/2 watt...
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The largest current draw is instantaneous, then rapidly declines - 1/4 watt is probably OK; I used a 1/2 watt...
Thanks, I ordered some 1/2 watt, I still have the diode in it, will remove it and put the resistor in when they get here.
I need to order me one of those fancy volt displays. What's that part number if someone has it handy
I got mine off eBay but from a US supplier, it was a little more $$$....there is link in here somewhere
Just seen those little strong tupperware containers just happen to be the exact size as the flash circuits and they were 8 for a dollar lol.
I got sidetracked tearing out my work area and rebuilding it. But I did get my order of 28-30-32 gauge kanthal and 32 gauge nicrome, all I have is 32g nickel NR. So when I get back up a going I will test the combinations I have.
I was trying to tack some 30g nichrome to some 32g nickel with no luck on an old LM2577 board that would only go up to 27.5 volts, I think its an older board design, and a 4700uF cap. So I wiped out the old camera flash circuit and bam done in a few seconds 
I was trying to tack some 30g nichrome to some 32g nickel with no luck on an old LM2577 board that would only go up to 27.5 volts, I think its an older board design, and a 4700uF cap. So I wiped out the old camera flash circuit and bam done in a few seconds
Now that's what I'm talk'in about
I was trying to tack some 30g nichrome to some 32g nickel with no luck on an old LM2577 board that would only go up to 27.5 volts, I think its an older board design, and a 4700uF cap. So I wiped out the old camera flash circuit and bam done in a few seconds
That's why you can never have to many options
What clips are you using on the LM welder. When I was using the thin brass radio shack clips with my camera welder I noticed in just a short time of using them that my welds were getting worse and worse. Maybe something to look at.
What capacitance and voltage were you using with your camera welder?
That's why you can never have to many options
What clips are you using on the LM welder. When I was using the thin brass radio shack clips with my camera welder I noticed in just a short time of using them that my welds were getting worse and worse. Maybe something to look at.
What capacitance and voltage were you using with your camera welder?
The clips where some standard ones that I filled with solder and filed down to make nice and flat for good contact. Im not sure what the voltage got up to because I wasn't metering it as I went I just went by feel and it may have took two or three tries for the first side but I got the second one done no problem. What I did was prewound the coil on some toothpicks (oval coil) and clipped one connection on to the whole thing. Then I just charged up and tacked to the ends in the direction I wanted the wires to go. The cap on the flash board I used for this is not marked but its small so I think its one of the 120uF ones. You don't need readouts if you get the feel for it but that method is not for everyone, I think I'll just go back to my original design because it works for me.
The fujifilm flash circuit as is seems to hold plenty of juice for good welds ( 120uf 330v cap). I use 32 awg pure nickel nr wire and have welded 33 awg to 30 awg kanthal with solid welds. I have been getting pretty accurate results just by counting one one thousand two one thousand and so on. The 33 awg kanthal I have best welds at 3-3.5 second charge and the thicker rw's like 30 awg kanthal at 7 seconds. Something else i have noticed that effects how the weld turns out is how you touch the wires together. Touching them side by side with a 1mm over lap seemed easiest, but do like trying welding them head on so it looks like one continuous wire.
Next I think will be trying other flash circuits. I have a kodak circuit with a really fat capactior that looks intruiging.
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