Resistance-No Resistance wire welder

[thatick]

my 2nd try, fully functional and housed have tested with 28awg kanthal to 32awg nickle works good enough for me cost 6.00 to build (had to buy a camera)
http://imageshack.us/a/img51/1199/img0089bm.jpg

first mod ive ever built so im thrilled with it, no where close to what u guys can do though, im just a small fry

 

[xMackx]

I just recieved my 36 awg kanthal. It only takes about 1-1.5 second charge to weld the 36 awg kanthal to 32 awg pure nickel. For a 1.8ohm coil I measured and cut 0.7inch of the 36 awg. Something I would have never been able to use without my welder.

I noticed that thinner r-wire had a lower continuous heat so it doesn't burn cotton as easily as the thicker gauge wires. Also has an instantaneous heat response. Another benefit is I technically don't need to test the ohms anymore, just measure and cut the exact ohms I want. The welder i made really has changed the way i vape and opened up possibilities that weren't an option before.

 

[gdeal]

I noticed that thinner r-wire had a lower continuous heat so it doesn't burn cotton as easily as the thicker gauge wires.

Can you explain this a bit more? It sounds interesting, but I dont get the "lower continuous heat" thing.

 

[Kavik79]

Okay, I've read through the whole thread.....and am thoroughly confused LOL
I understand the concepts, and I think I have it down for the most part, I just keep getting mixed up when the thread keeps jumping back and forth between all the different versions people have come up with

I was going to go with what I thought might be the simplest route and use gsa's "shopping list", but this is where my brain just stopped working.
In gsa's version there is only one switch. Now, just so I'm straight here, when building with the LM2577 board we only need the one switch to 'fire', as opposed to using the disposable camera boards that require a 'charge' and 'fire' switch? And......as long as the battery is hooked up, it will just keep recharging the cap?

Sorry if these are stupid questions, I thought I had it all straight last night, then today I got all confused

 

[bapgood]

Okay, I've read through the whole thread.....and am thoroughly confused LOL
I understand the concepts, and I think I have it down for the most part, I just keep getting mixed up when the thread keeps jumping back and forth between all the different versions people have come up with

I was going to go with what I thought might be the simplest route and use gsa's "shopping list", but this is where my brain just stopped working.
In gsa's version there is only one switch. Now, just so I'm straight here, when building with the LM2577 board we only need the one switch to 'fire', as opposed to using the disposable camera boards that require a 'charge' and 'fire' switch? And......as long as the battery is hooked up, it will just keep recharging the cap?

Sorry if these are stupid questions, I thought I had it all straight last night, then today I got all confused

On the camera most are using an on/off switch between the battery and the camera board, and then two momentary buttons, one for charging the capacitor(s) and then other for discharging. Some aren't using a discharge button, and some don't use a main on/off switch and just remove the battery when not in use. At least that is what I have noticed.

Neither version (camera or LM2577) use a fire button per say. The capacitor charge is released by touching the NR and resistance wires together which welds them together.

 

[Kavik79]

Okay, I guess I goofed more than I thought. I swear I knew that though, that was embarrassing haha

I just placed the order for the board on ebay, I'll order the stuff from Digi-key and read through this all again before it arrives

 

[bapgood]

Okay, I guess I goofed more than I thought. I swear I knew that though, that was embarrassing haha

I just placed the order for the board on ebay, I'll order the stuff from Digi-key and read through this all again before it arrives

No sweat....There is a ton of great information all jumbled up in this thread and the hard part for someone just finding it is sorting it all out.

There have been a few of us try to come up with a fire button for releasing capacitor charge, but nothing that has worked.

 

[Kavik79]

Jumbled is right LOL
I'm sure it'll make more sense once all the parts are laid out in front of me. Should be a fun little project

 

[gdeal]

Jumbled is right LOL
I'm sure it'll make more sense once all the parts are laid out in front of me. Should be a fun little project

@Kavik79.

In case you missed this in the thread. GSA put together a really detailed walk through of his build here:

Small Welder for joining Nichrome and Nickel Wires

 

[Kavik79]

Yes, that is one of the many browser tabs I have open here, thanks
I guess for my first try I'll just follow that one and ignore all the other fancy ones with the extra bells, whistles, lights and displays. KISS, and all that

 

[gdeal]

You probably have this open in a browser tab as well. There is a wealth of information here:

The Spark-O-Matic - Wire Arc Welding for coil making

 

[Kavik79]

I did.....but since I'm not registered i closed it when i found this thread loll I'll take a closet look though, thanks!

 

[gdeal]

I did.....but since I'm not registered i closed it when i found this thread loll I'll take a closet look though, thanks!

Go back...register..its very quick. That guy is a genius.

 

[Kavik79]

Go back...register..its very quick. That guy is a genius.

Okay, just finished reading through the other thread. Good stuff, but honestly, most of it has already been copied over into this thread lol
And it's all about the camera method, parts already ordered for the LM2577 build. Thanks anyway though

 

[gsa]

I just recieved my 36 awg kanthal. It only takes about 1-1.5 second charge to weld the 36 awg kanthal to 32 awg pure nickel. For a 1.8ohm coil I measured and cut 0.7inch of the 36 awg. Something I would have never been able to use without my welder.

I noticed that thinner r-wire had a lower continuous heat so it doesn't burn cotton as easily as the thicker gauge wires. Also has an instantaneous heat response. Another benefit is I technically don't need to test the ohms anymore, just measure and cut the exact ohms I want. The welder i made really has changed the way i vape and opened up possibilities that weren't an option before.

I'm right there with ya. I do dual coils with 34g and just measure the length, they are perfect every time and no more multimeter needed. The fast heating of thinner wire makes a HUGE difference for me, it is instant heating for sure. I have tried to go back to 30g just to try and it takes forever to heat up, I can't even really use 32 anymore let alone 30.

 

[thatick]

now that ive done the camera im ready to take the leap, im gonna order my parts also, which board did u get Kavik?

Okay, just finished reading through the other thread. Good stuff, but honestly, most of it has already been copied over into this thread lol
And it's all about the camera method, parts already ordered for the LM2577 build. Thanks anyway though

 

[Kavik79]

now that ive done the camera im ready to take the leap, im gonna order my parts also, which board did u get Kavik?

I bought this one: 2x LM2577 3A DC Step-Up Adjustable Breadboard Module; Power Supply Converter USA
Someone linked to it earlier in the thread, and for $10 I get one to do right after screwing up the first one LOL
Doesn't hurt that it's delivered from just a few hours away from me

 

[thatick]

oh ill buy 2 or 3 of everything cause no doubts i will screw something up lol

so that one on ebay is for 2 boards? sweet

I bought this one: 2x LM2577 3A DC Step-Up Adjustable Breadboard Module; Power Supply Converter USA
Someone linked to it earlier in the thread, and for $10 I get one to do right after screwing up the first one LOL
Doesn't hurt that it's delivered from just a few hours away from me

 

[Kavik79]

yup
I should've doubled up my order for the Digi-Key parts, but I've spent waaaayyyy too much on 'hobbies' lately.....between the vaping and all its accessories, the straight shaving and all the 'acquisition disorders' that accompany that, and the 3 moderately to heavily modified subarus in the household, stuff adds up way too quick. At least this one is something that'll save me some money in the long run lol

 

[xMackx]

yup
I should've doubled up my order for the Digi-Key parts, but I've spent waaaayyyy too much on 'hobbies' lately.....between the vaping and all its accessories, the straight shaving and all the 'acquisition disorders' that accompany that, and the 3 moderately to heavily modified subarus in the household, stuff adds up way too quick. At least this one is something that'll save me some money in the long run lol

Oh a vaper and a straight shaver. It expensive buying all those hones and then razors huh lol. Don't worry we both must have acquisition disorders lol. I call it a learning disorder, because I'm always trying to learn how to make things if they're straight razors, wire welders or vv mods.