Should be good to go. I always make my coils a little longer on the negative and positive legs because instead of cutting them just move them back and forth a few times and they'll break off flush when fully assembled.
Well, as my Protank heads get spent, and they seem to be out of stock almost everywhere, I decided to parlay some of my iGo-L rebuilding materials on a quest to get a better vape out of my Protanks.
I've tried several silica styles (single, double, tripled, with or without 'flavor wicks') and 400 mesh SS, but I think I hit the mother lode when I tried a cotton ball, on a lark.
I wound the coil out of 33awg Kanthal on a round toothpick, with a 3/2 wind for 1.9 ohms, then took a tuft of the cotton ball, rolled it into a wick, and threaded the tapered end through the coil.
Then I reassembled the head like normal, though after the first time I found it beneficial to prime the wick, like you would a carto tank, before you put the top piece back on the head, or you'll get quite a few harsh hits before the liquid works its way into the wick.
I must say that the vape is out of this world. On my original Protank heads, any wattage over about 6.7W tasted burnt to me, but I'm now vaping at a full 8.0W, getting a very nice consistent crackle, and a load of vapor. I'll have to be extra careful not to burn the wick, but I'm really enjoying the vape. Plus, it's cheap to replace if I do, so that's another win.
Just wanted to toss this out there in case anybody else has been toying with this idea.
here is my problem.
I have been rewicking DID, Mini Nova, Nova, evod, MT3 atomizers with cotton balls. I managed to get good wick twice on Nova, which lasted for week. Tried rolling the wick tight and not tight.
The materials used - 32 kanthal, 4/5 thread on Allen key from DID (1.9 Ohm resistance), Squeeze the cotton ball into coil.
Protank, leaks without extra flavor wick on top of the coil. On all other atomizers the wick gives good flavor and vapor only for like half an hour. On DID the taste was good for couple days always, but the vapor production was dropping rather quickly.
liquid - 50/50, dark and light ones.
What am i doing wrong? Any suggestions?
Some strings, yarns or [candle] wicks have what is called "sizing" incorporated into the material to aid in forming and retaining shape for said strings, yarns or wicks. This is the material that should be removed with boiling before use as an ecig wick.
USP / sterile 100% cotton should not need to be boiled; but then again, boiling isn't going to hurt anything.![]()
Hi TomCatt,
Do you think I'd need to boil non sterile 100% cotton balls?
What would be the boiling procedure?
Thanks!
Cotton balls probably don't need to be boiled; but a typical boiling procedure is described in the Cotton Wick Wiki linked in my signature.
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Scrap that... its leaking badly... How did you stop the juice leaking out the hole under the coil?