Saw a thread where Super-T is upgrading to Rhodium contacts. Wondered if we could get a discussion going about the advantages, if any, and if we could get them for the GGTS.
Rhodium contacts?
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I believe Imeo said he explored that and it didn't help conductivity. I'm a mechanical engineer however, not electrical
Well, that answered my question. I know exactly jack-squat about metallurgy. Thanks, y'all.
rbuck, we dont have sliding contacts on mods
Ok, lets see the facts. We need a good contact. Contact depents on: 1. the size of surface, 2. the materials that contact each other, 3. the pressure, 4. the quality of the surface. I hope that I didnt forget anything
1. Even if the surface is large, only a very small amount of it touch the other surface because surfaces arent totally straight and not totally shined. They have "mountains" and "holes". For example button cant get pressed totally straight if you dont push it enough. Also the more the push, the more of the surface comes in touch.
2. Even if we have a good contact from the one side its useless when we have a worse contact from the other side. So if our pin has a good contact its useless when it touch the surface of the battery that has a worse contact.
3. Pressure is very big on GGTS button, so the contact is exellent every time
4. GG has high polised surfaces to have the best contact
ps...... Even if we have a good pin its still useless if the current comes via a spring, thats why I tried to replace them with magnets
ps2... What a good pins means to me: High polised pin, with large surface and with ability for big pressure on it.
The only advantage of rodium is that maybe it doesnt need cleaning soon. But nickel still doesnt need cleaning because we dont touch it with our hands so it stays always clean inside GG. I dont think that anyone cleans the base of the GG button or has see any marks on it. (I am talking about the nickel plated pins). Only in case of an arc or a short the pin of the button or the axis that it touches will have a small black mark. But this can happen to any metal. I still havent seen any black marks to the base of my button even if I had many shorts
Ok, lets see the facts. We need a good contact. Contact depents on: 1. the size of surface, 2. the materials that contact each other, 3. the pressure, 4. the quality of the surface. I hope that I didnt forget anything
1. Even if the surface is large, only a very small amount of it touch the other surface because surfaces arent totally straight and not totally shined. They have "mountains" and "holes". For example button cant get pressed totally straight if you dont push it enough. Also the more the push, the more of the surface comes in touch.
2. Even if we have a good contact from the one side its useless when we have a worse contact from the other side. So if our pin has a good contact its useless when it touch the surface of the battery that has a worse contact.
3. Pressure is very big on GGTS button, so the contact is exellent every time
4. GG has high polised surfaces to have the best contact
ps...... Even if we have a good pin its still useless if the current comes via a spring, thats why I tried to replace them with magnets
ps2... What a good pins means to me: High polised pin, with large surface and with ability for big pressure on it.
The only advantage of rodium is that maybe it doesnt need cleaning soon. But nickel still doesnt need cleaning because we dont touch it with our hands so it stays always clean inside GG. I dont think that anyone cleans the base of the GG button or has see any marks on it. (I am talking about the nickel plated pins). Only in case of an arc or a short the pin of the button or the axis that it touches will have a small black mark. But this can happen to any metal. I still havent seen any black marks to the base of my button even if I had many shorts
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I've had black marks because of shorting while playing with my genisis. But nothing a little bit of autosol can't handle... 
Raceengine
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I've had black marks because of shorting while playing with my genisis. But nothing a little bit of autosol can't handle...
I've had black marks because of shorting while playing with my genisis. But nothing a little bit of autosol can't handle...
aluminium or brass contacts can have those marks Race as the GG had them when I was making aluminium or brass contacts. But we dont have this issue with nickel now. I dont think that someone cleaned its nickel plated contact pin
Mine gets cleaned in the ultrasound with the rest of the GGTS parts
I have polished mine, but I can
I have polished mine, but I can
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I really thought that everyone is having the same issue I was experiencing but your last sentence has me questioning whether my issue is an isolated incident or a possible user error somehow...
I've had bad experience with my button post. It seems that every couple of days the performance on my SSGG starts dropping, and I've been using it sparingly. I take it appart, clean it, sand down the button spring as well as both fuse springs. Then it starts hitting good again until a couple of days later. I notice that if I press the button straight in, sometimes the GG doesn't fire. But if I rotate the button a little bit or hit it kind of sideways at a slight angle, it makes a good connection and it fires but inconsistently. So, the only thing that made sense to me was a lack of good contact between the button pin and the bottom button post. After closely inspecting the connection, I notice that the button pin has developed a black ring or a circle and the button post developed a black spot or a mark where the button pin presses against it.
I tried doing everything in my power to remove the black ring from the button pin but was unsuccessful. After loosing my patience I just decided to try to sand it down with some 1000 grit sand paper. Yea, stupid, I know... But I just didn't know what else to do. Now, of course, all the plating has been removed and (what appears to be brass) is what you see where plating once was. It hits more consistently now but not as hard as it did a few weeks ago.
So, where do I go from here? Do I order a new button assembly from Bruce and give it another shot by starting over? Should I just keep on using this button and apply some Silver Conductive grease? How do I prevent this from happening in the future? Why does my button start heating up every few days? I just need to figure this out before going after the UFS and other accessories, please... I just want it to work as good as it looks. Thanks.
Oh, btw, here is what the button looks like now after sanding the pin.
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maybe out of topic here, but contach with batteries is importance too, i polish the top and bottom connections with the batteries itself
Thanks for the tip. I actually do that religiously! Just to be clear, I'm not a stranger to all-mechanical mods and what's involved to keep them maintained. I'm fanatic about keeping everything spotless. I'm used to having to polish brass contact points often and keep threads clean to ensure optimum performance. But, the GGTS is in a different league when it comes to maintenance due to a greater complexity of its design. I hoped that plated contact points would allow for lower maintenance requirements but my experience has been different unfortunately. I would just like to find out if maybe I'm doing something wrong in order to prevent possible future problems.
I personally would get a new button. Mine is one of the first run SSGGTS and I have not cleaned my button contact or post even once. I think it may be an issue with over polishing along with a button that may not be completely snugged down into place. As Imeo has pointed out before, he used nickle plating for it's conductivity and resistance to ware. It shouldn't tarnish very fast since you don't normally touch it.
I would probably not use something like conductive grease for fear that it could bridge and possibly short, but something like Deoxit gold may do well for you if it seals as well.
Best of luck!
I would probably not use something like conductive grease for fear that it could bridge and possibly short, but something like Deoxit gold may do well for you if it seals as well.
Best of luck!
I really thought that everyone is having the same issue I was experiencing but your last sentence has me questioning whether my issue is an isolated incident or a possible user error somehow...
I've had bad experience with my button post. It seems that every couple of days the performance on my SSGG starts dropping, and I've been using it sparingly. I take it appart, clean it, sand down the button spring as well as both fuse springs. Then it starts hitting good again until a couple of days later. I notice that if I press the button straight in, sometimes the GG doesn't fire. But if I rotate the button a little bit or hit it kind of sideways at a slight angle, it makes a good connection and it fires but inconsistently. So, the only thing that made sense to me was a lack of good contact between the button pin and the bottom button post. After closely inspecting the connection, I notice that the button pin has developed a black ring or a circle and the button post developed a black spot or a mark where the button pin presses against it.
I tried doing everything in my power to remove the black ring from the button pin but was unsuccessful. After loosing my patience I just decided to try to sand it down with some 1000 grit sand paper. Yea, stupid, I know... But I just didn't know what else to do. Now, of course, all the plating has been removed and (what appears to be brass) is what you see where plating once was. It hits more consistently now but not as hard as it did a few weeks ago.
So, where do I go from here? Do I order a new button assembly from Bruce and give it another shot by starting over? Should I just keep on using this button and apply some Silver Conductive grease? How do I prevent this from happening in the future? Why does my button start heating up every few days? I just need to figure this out before going after the UFS and other accessories, please... I just want it to work as good as it looks. Thanks.
Oh, btw, here is what the button looks like now after sanding the pin.
The issue is always the springs Vapor. I need to make plated springs to avoid this contacting issue.
Black mark will leave easily with autusol. Put a small amount of autosol to a towel and rub the button on it. Mark will leave in 3 seconds. Also check for black marks on the axis that is attached on the cap.
Your GG gets hot because of a short. Please change atomizer
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Believe it or not, I use a simple pencil eraser to clean all of the contacts of my GG devices. Works quite well for me
1.) Wipe down the contact areas to make sure they are free of any juice or oils from your hands.
2.) Clean the contact areas with a Pencil Eraser.
3.) Reassemble the device making sure you do not touch the contact points which may leave a slight film of natural oils from your hands.
Just my 0.02 on the issue.
1.) Wipe down the contact areas to make sure they are free of any juice or oils from your hands.
2.) Clean the contact areas with a Pencil Eraser.
3.) Reassemble the device making sure you do not touch the contact points which may leave a slight film of natural oils from your hands.
Just my 0.02 on the issue.
I always forget the best way and that is pencil eraser as Zor said lol. Thanks Zor
I second Zor, i'm cleaning the contacts the same way and this works pretty fine.
I use my shirt and some spit to clean the contact and the post (and I need to every so often fwiw) and it seems to work for me!!!
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