Unfortunately, we don't do any custom engraving, but i'd bet you may be able to find a local engraver who could do it. On backlog, after we get out this weeks batch of orders, we'll be sitting at about a 3 week wait from date of order.
Why Rhodium/Palladium??? The Facts.
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Unfortunately, we don't do any custom engraving, but i'd bet you may be able to find a local engraver who could do it. On backlog, after we get out this weeks batch of orders, we'll be sitting at about a 3 week wait from date of order.
Thank you and welcome Ulmer! It's good to hear you are liking your P+!
Hi
Read the whole thread (and most threads about P+), but still have one question.
If i check my other PV gear i can find scratches on the top contact, that is in contact with the cartomizer/tank. Many cartomizers have not round (circle) contacts, but some kind of 2 halfmoons for better airflow (genesis types have usualy full contact). Those halfmoons have edges, and if you switch cartos, the turn movement scratches the top contact on the PV.
You told us that rhodium platings makes much harder surface than gold/brass but still if the contact on carto is from steel, it will get scratched imo.
The question is if those scratches will not take of the rodium plating, and your (our) PV will have the same brass top contact as any other PV (i dont mean the contacts that are touching the battery).
Btw ill buy one anyway, its just bugging me when i checked the top contacts on my PVs
Thanks for the answer
Read the whole thread (and most threads about P+), but still have one question.
If i check my other PV gear i can find scratches on the top contact, that is in contact with the cartomizer/tank. Many cartomizers have not round (circle) contacts, but some kind of 2 halfmoons for better airflow (genesis types have usualy full contact). Those halfmoons have edges, and if you switch cartos, the turn movement scratches the top contact on the PV.
You told us that rhodium platings makes much harder surface than gold/brass but still if the contact on carto is from steel, it will get scratched imo.
The question is if those scratches will not take of the rodium plating, and your (our) PV will have the same brass top contact as any other PV (i dont mean the contacts that are touching the battery).
Btw ill buy one anyway, its just bugging me when i checked the top contacts on my PVs
Thanks for the answer
Hi
Read the whole thread (and most threads about P+), but still have one question.
If i check my other PV gear i can find scratches on the top contact, that is in contact with the cartomizer/tank. Many cartomizers have not round (circle) contacts, but some kind of 2 halfmoons for better airflow (genesis types have usualy full contact). Those halfmoons have edges, and if you switch cartos, the turn movement scratches the top contact on the PV.
You told us that rhodium platings makes much harder surface than gold/brass but still if the contact on carto is from steel, it will get scratched imo.
The question is if those scratches will not take of the rodium plating, and your (our) PV will have the same brass top contact as any other PV (i dont mean the contacts that are touching the battery).
Btw ill buy one anyway, its just bugging me when i checked the top contacts on my PVs
Thanks for the answer
Hasn't been a problem in over a year now of having the Rhodium plating in the field on several thousand PrecisePlus's. Rhodium has over 4 times the hardness rating of brass. Will it eventually wear, yeah, like all things but its pretty darn durable.
thanks for the fast reply, and sorry if it sounded too pessimist, wasnt intended
as i wrote, i like the design, and i like the added value of the rodium plating, was just curious whats your observations about this
good to hear that its so solid, already saw on other threads that you care about your customers ^^
and i still want (no, actualy i "need") atleast one
as i wrote, i like the design, and i like the added value of the rodium plating, was just curious whats your observations about this
good to hear that its so solid, already saw on other threads that you care about your customers ^^
and i still want (no, actualy i "need") atleast one
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Here's a picture of the center post of my P+18650. My 18650 I've had...probably a year, I dunno. It is my workhorse. I take it to work most of the time. I use it all day every day and use everything under the sun on it. I think I'm about as rough as anyone can possibly be with it.
Yes, there are scratches. Who wouldn't be scratched? The faint brass color you see doesn't exist though, it's a trick of the light. The post is as completely silver white as the day I got it...it's just scratched.
The important point though, is that to take this picture I swabbed it out with a Kleenex dipped in water. That's it. It hits like a train and never needs more maintanance than a Kleenex.
Yes, there are scratches. Who wouldn't be scratched? The faint brass color you see doesn't exist though, it's a trick of the light. The post is as completely silver white as the day I got it...it's just scratched.
The important point though, is that to take this picture I swabbed it out with a Kleenex dipped in water. That's it. It hits like a train and never needs more maintanance than a Kleenex.
I'll add something.
If I had one desire, it would be for the chance to try out a P+ that had the entire lower assembly, button, horns and spring, rhodium plated. I know it would be expensive and probably problematical in the case of the spring, but I'd just like to see. That assembly requires much more maintenance than the center post. In reality mostly due more to pocket crud than anything else.
If I had one desire, it would be for the chance to try out a P+ that had the entire lower assembly, button, horns and spring, rhodium plated. I know it would be expensive and probably problematical in the case of the spring, but I'd just like to see. That assembly requires much more maintenance than the center post. In reality mostly due more to pocket crud than anything else.
The Rhodium plating we use is so durable as we aren't using a home brew, nor are we using a Jewelry grade, i know the term "mil spec" gets thrown around very loosely, but this is genuine mil spec plating, they even have to keep a log of each part they plate for us on record .(i assume it's part of the requirements for obtaining a mil spec certification). So on record they have all the parts they ever plated for us, when they were plated and how they were plated.
David is a perfectionist.
always thinking one step ahead.
highly underrated IMHO.
always thinking one step ahead.
highly underrated IMHO.
Hmm. "underrated". You really think so? Let's come up with a better word.
From what I've seen I think it's fairly recognized that Super-T is among the best of the best as far as build and performance, but I don't think they're for everyone for a variety of reasons. Wait, that's not a word, is it.
David takes everything a PV should do and be and distills it into an almost frighteningly minimalist object. For every complex Da Vinci invention it's the Mona Lisa's smile.
Distillation. Yes, David takes the Bauhaus/Bucky Fuller engineering and design aesthetic seriously.
Haven't learned how to multi-quote. Thanks for your comments...both of you.
Susan
Haven't learned how to multi-quote.
Thanks for your comments...both of you.Susan
Why Rhodium? The Facts.
Q: David, you’ve been making mechanical mods for over two years now, why did you switch from non-coated brass battery/switch/atomizer contacts to Rhodium over Gold Plated Brass Contacts?
A: Brass (as well as aluminum and copper) are highly conductive materials with a glaring detriment, they readily interact with oxygen on a molecular level, a process called oxidation (which is often referred to as tarnishing on brass). Most all non precious metals oxidize, even stainless steel, albeit very slowly compared to brass, aluminum, copper etc.
Q: What is wrong with oxidation?
A: When a metal experiences oxidation, a chemical transformation of the surface layer of the metal occurs, this chemically transformed layer severely impedes the flow of electricity.
Q. Can we see Oxidation?
A. Oxidation is virtually invisible because it occurs on a molecular level, it is only when it progresses so far that free radicals start breaking away do we actually see it’s effects. But it’s effects to the flow of electrical current begin immediately when these bare metals are exposed to oxygen.
Q. What If we don’t touch the brass after we polish it, will it still oxidize/tarnish?
A. Yes, it will begin oxidizing immediately after polishing, these metals only require oxygen to begin oxidation. Introduction of moisture by touching it or humid air will increase the oxidation rate.
Q. Can we slow the oxidation process?
A. Yes we can slow it, but not eliminate it, by applying anti oxidants to a cleaned surface. Anti-oxidants are petroleum based products (which go under many name brands, such a Dexoit Gold, Noalox, Di-Electric Grease, Vaseline etc) that, when applied to metal, form a protective semi-oxygen proof barrier. They are not conductive in and of themselves. They Promote conductivity by shielding the base metal from oxygen and the resulting oxidation.
Q. Ok, so I think I understand. Untreated bare metals experience oxidation. Oxidation interferes with the flow of electricity, which makes my switch fire inconsistently and lowers the voltage reaching the atomizer. But you still haven’t answered my question, Why Rhodium?
A. One of the biggest complaints users of all mechanical mods have is the frequent need to clean the electrical contacts in order to keep their unit firing. We’ve all experienced it; the dreaded push the button and nothing happens. Push harder or twist the button, try again. A few moments pause before our atomizer fires, followed by weak vapor. Arrg, time to clean again! Feedback on all mechanical mods is unequivocal, find a solution, so Super T set about researching a solution to the problem! Enter Rhodium.
Q. What is Rhodium?
A. - Rhodium is one of the rarest and most expensive Precious metals.
- It is a non oxidizing metal; oxygen and moisture have no effect on it. It will not oxidize, tarnish, or corrode.
- Rhodium is impervious to most acids.
- Rhodium is extremely hard, with over 4 times the hardness rating of gold, which is very important due to the high friction and pressure loads electrical contacts in a mechanical mod encounter.
-Rhodium is extremely resistant to electrical arcing. Electrical arcing occurs when electricity jumps the gap just before and after a switch makes contact and this electrical arcing creates hotspots that oxidize, but since Rhodium is virtually impervious to oxidation, electrical arcing has little to no effect on Rhodium, unlike Nickel, Brass and copper which are susceptible to the oxidizing effects of electrical arcing.
-Due to Rhodium’s extreme resistance to the effects of electrical arcing and it‘s extremely high melting point (3600+ degrees and a boiling point of 8000+ degrees), it is often used to coat the end of spark plugs which often see 20,000 volts and localized, intermittent temps in excess of 10,000 degrees!
Q. So the solution to eliminating oxidization was plating the brass contacts with Rhodium, I understand that, but What exactly does the Rhodium do (or not do) that makes my unit hit so consistently and so much harder then my other devices? Is it because it’s so conductive?
A. Actually, Rhodium is just an average conductor, it’s purpose is not to conduct per se, that is still the function of the brass base metal over which the Rhodium is applied and Brass is an excellent conductor. The Rhodium, poses virtually no resistance to the flow of electricity as resistance is also dependent on the thickness of the metal electricity has to flow through.
BUT what the Rhodium does do, is provide a virtually oxygen proof barrier over the Brass which prevents oxidation of the brass from occurring and since the Rhodium itself also never oxidizes, corrodes or tarnishes, it is always making the best possible electrical connection for the electricity to pass through. Hence, you see no loss in voltage to your atomizer and you experience reliable switch action, hit after hit and the biggest benefit of all, you never have to clean it!
[/QUOTE]
Super T Manufacturing INC
Q: David, you’ve been making mechanical mods for over two years now, why did you switch from non-coated brass battery/switch/atomizer contacts to Rhodium over Gold Plated Brass Contacts?
A: Brass (as well as aluminum and copper) are highly conductive materials with a glaring detriment, they readily interact with oxygen on a molecular level, a process called oxidation (which is often referred to as tarnishing on brass). Most all non precious metals oxidize, even stainless steel, albeit very slowly compared to brass, aluminum, copper etc.
Q: What is wrong with oxidation?
A: When a metal experiences oxidation, a chemical transformation of the surface layer of the metal occurs, this chemically transformed layer severely impedes the flow of electricity.
Q. Can we see Oxidation?
A. Oxidation is virtually invisible because it occurs on a molecular level, it is only when it progresses so far that free radicals start breaking away do we actually see it’s effects. But it’s effects to the flow of electrical current begin immediately when these bare metals are exposed to oxygen.
Q. What If we don’t touch the brass after we polish it, will it still oxidize/tarnish?
A. Yes, it will begin oxidizing immediately after polishing, these metals only require oxygen to begin oxidation. Introduction of moisture by touching it or humid air will increase the oxidation rate.
Q. Can we slow the oxidation process?
A. Yes we can slow it, but not eliminate it, by applying anti oxidants to a cleaned surface. Anti-oxidants are petroleum based products (which go under many name brands, such a Dexoit Gold, Noalox, Di-Electric Grease, Vaseline etc) that, when applied to metal, form a protective semi-oxygen proof barrier. They are not conductive in and of themselves. They Promote conductivity by shielding the base metal from oxygen and the resulting oxidation.
Q. Ok, so I think I understand. Untreated bare metals experience oxidation. Oxidation interferes with the flow of electricity, which makes my switch fire inconsistently and lowers the voltage reaching the atomizer. But you still haven’t answered my question, Why Rhodium?
A. One of the biggest complaints users of all mechanical mods have is the frequent need to clean the electrical contacts in order to keep their unit firing. We’ve all experienced it; the dreaded push the button and nothing happens. Push harder or twist the button, try again. A few moments pause before our atomizer fires, followed by weak vapor. Arrg, time to clean again! Feedback on all mechanical mods is unequivocal, find a solution, so Super T set about researching a solution to the problem! Enter Rhodium.
Q. What is Rhodium?
A. - Rhodium is one of the rarest and most expensive Precious metals.
- It is a non oxidizing metal; oxygen and moisture have no effect on it. It will not oxidize, tarnish, or corrode.
- Rhodium is impervious to most acids.
- Rhodium is extremely hard, with over 4 times the hardness rating of gold, which is very important due to the high friction and pressure loads electrical contacts in a mechanical mod encounter.
-Rhodium is extremely resistant to electrical arcing. Electrical arcing occurs when electricity jumps the gap just before and after a switch makes contact and this electrical arcing creates hotspots that oxidize, but since Rhodium is virtually impervious to oxidation, electrical arcing has little to no effect on Rhodium, unlike Nickel, Brass and copper which are susceptible to the oxidizing effects of electrical arcing.
-Due to Rhodium’s extreme resistance to the effects of electrical arcing and it‘s extremely high melting point (3600+ degrees and a boiling point of 8000+ degrees), it is often used to coat the end of spark plugs which often see 20,000 volts and localized, intermittent temps in excess of 10,000 degrees!
Q. So the solution to eliminating oxidization was plating the brass contacts with Rhodium, I understand that, but What exactly does the Rhodium do (or not do) that makes my unit hit so consistently and so much harder then my other devices? Is it because it’s so conductive?
A. Actually, Rhodium is just an average conductor, it’s purpose is not to conduct per se, that is still the function of the brass base metal over which the Rhodium is applied and Brass is an excellent conductor. The Rhodium, poses virtually no resistance to the flow of electricity as resistance is also dependent on the thickness of the metal electricity has to flow through.
BUT what the Rhodium does do, is provide a virtually oxygen proof barrier over the Brass which prevents oxidation of the brass from occurring and since the Rhodium itself also never oxidizes, corrodes or tarnishes, it is always making the best possible electrical connection for the electricity to pass through. Hence, you see no loss in voltage to your atomizer and you experience reliable switch action, hit after hit and the biggest benefit of all, you never have to clean it!
Super T Manufacturing INC
I was lucky enough to receive an ECDmeter. Just for grins I thought I'd put my P+18650 head to head with a leading competitor.
Conditions:
Using the same somewhat discharged CGR18650CH battery, the same 1.5 ohm atomizer, the same extender. Brand X is fairly new and barely used, it has had all contact parts upgraded to brass (button post, battery post, center pin) on the advice that doing so provides best conductivity. Likewise the battery spring is removed.
The year+ old P+18650 is what I vape all the time. I rarely even think about cleaning it. Just stock, rides around in my pocket with whatever else.
What you're looking at is watts. Top row Brand X, bottom P+. I took the shots alternately.
These results are reproducible for me. Your mileage may vary.
Conditions:
Using the same somewhat discharged CGR18650CH battery, the same 1.5 ohm atomizer, the same extender. Brand X is fairly new and barely used, it has had all contact parts upgraded to brass (button post, battery post, center pin) on the advice that doing so provides best conductivity. Likewise the battery spring is removed.
The year+ old P+18650 is what I vape all the time. I rarely even think about cleaning it. Just stock, rides around in my pocket with whatever else.
What you're looking at is watts. Top row Brand X, bottom P+. I took the shots alternately.
These results are reproducible for me. Your mileage may vary.
I was lucky enough to receive an ECDmeter. Just for grins I thought I'd put my P+18650 head to head with a leading competitor.
Conditions:
Using the same somewhat discharged CGR18650CH battery, the same 1.5 ohm atomizer, the same extender. Brand X is fairly new and barely used, it has had all contact parts upgraded to brass (button post, battery post, center pin) on the advice that doing so provides best conductivity. Likewise the battery spring is removed.
The year+ old P+18650 is what I vape all the time. I rarely even think about cleaning it. Just stock, rides around in my pocket with whatever else.
What you're looking at is watts. Top row Brand X, bottom P+. I took the shots alternately.
These results are reproducible for me. Your mileage may vary.
Thanks for posting that up Snork! Looks like that P+ is still treating you well, even after a year! I like that meter, Where did you source it from?
It's a fancy thing! You'd really groove on it. You can hook it up to a computer, myriads of functions. A vaper in Australia - goes by stonemull here - makes them in small batches, I got in on a co-op for one. I'll put a link in here later or you can search for ecdmeter.
http://www.ecdmeter.com/ecdmeter.html
http://www.ecdmeter.com/ecdmeter.html
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Hi
I am getting an interest in some p+'s lately and I am doing a little research now ...specially after getting a few mods that did live up to there hype .... Used a friends p+ and it really hits so hard .... Now I only have one Q on the plating and one on esthetics look only before summing up.
To clean Rodium plating and will you damage it when cleaning with scothpads ?
About the finish since I didn't see any polished full mods are they made on requests?
Thanks
I am getting an interest in some p+'s lately and I am doing a little research now ...specially after getting a few mods that did live up to there hype .... Used a friends p+ and it really hits so hard .... Now I only have one Q on the plating and one on esthetics look only before summing up.
To clean Rodium plating and will you damage it when cleaning with scothpads ?
About the finish since I didn't see any polished full mods are they made on requests?
Thanks
Good morning Aron Gatt,
Correct, there is no need to EVER use a scratch pad or anything abrasive on Rhodium plating. Rhodium plating is a precious metal just like Gold (only 4 times harder) in that it will never corrode, tarnish, rust or oxidize, so you would never need to use a scratch pad or anything abrasive on it, just a soft cloth to wipe any juice or grime that may accumulate on it. On the polished mods, right now only the ELA comes in a polished finished as pictured below. P+ currently only comes in satin or two tone.
Good morning Aron Gatt,
Correct, there is no need to EVER use a scratch pad or anything abrasive on Rhodium plating. Rhodium plating is a precious metal just like Gold (only 4 times harder) in that it will never corrode, tarnish, rust or oxidize, so you would never need to use a scratch pad or anything abrasive on it, just a soft cloth to wipe any juice or grime that may accumulate on it. On the polished mods, right now only the ELA comes in a polished finished as pictured below. P+ currently only comes in satin or two tone.
Thanks for ur fast reply and the info ..unfortunately ela is not on my list as now although is the most innovative telescoping mod since the first one .
Great work .
Thanks
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