I designed a calculator that will work out the right battery to be used for any given regulated mod set up.
Its www.vapinghardware.com/calculators/battery-amp-draw-calculator
Right Batteries
- Thread starter Fstop
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Its www.vapinghardware.com/calculators/battery-amp-draw-calculator
No. Wattage is determined by the setting you specify on your regulated mod. The coil resistance has no part when calculating current drain.
When determining current drain, it doesnt matter if the cells are in series or parallel, it's the number of cells that's important.
Yes it does, that's correct and that is extremely important if using in an unregulated mod when voltage and resistance are the factors that determine current drain.
In a regulated mod, it doesnt matter when ur working out the current drain of your battery(s).
I agree with Richard. For a regulated mod:
Maximum watts = maximum amps * minimum voltage * efficiency factor
Say your batteries have a CDR of 20. Minimum voltage is generally 3.2 for most regulated mods, so, for a single battery setup:
Maximum wattage = maximum amps * minimum voltage = 20 amps * 3.2 volts * 0.9 = 57.6 watts
Now, with a dual battery setup in series, you'd double the voltage:
Wattage = 20 amps * 3.2 volts * 2 * 0.9 = 115.2 watts
In parallel, you double the amps instead:
20 amps * 2 * 3.2 volts * 0.9 = 115.2 watts
Same result, because you've just changed where you put the 2.
Also, resistance doesn't come into it (in a regulated mod - it's vital in a mech) because the battery never sees the coil. Although, as you pointed out earlier, it can give you an idea of what wattage a person will be vaping at. Still, it's much easier (and more accurate) just to use the wattage.
There's a great explanation from Mooch here.
Maximum watts = maximum amps * minimum voltage * efficiency factor
Say your batteries have a CDR of 20. Minimum voltage is generally 3.2 for most regulated mods, so, for a single battery setup:
Maximum wattage = maximum amps * minimum voltage = 20 amps * 3.2 volts * 0.9 = 57.6 watts
Now, with a dual battery setup in series, you'd double the voltage:
Wattage = 20 amps * 3.2 volts * 2 * 0.9 = 115.2 watts
In parallel, you double the amps instead:
20 amps * 2 * 3.2 volts * 0.9 = 115.2 watts
Same result, because you've just changed where you put the 2.
Also, resistance doesn't come into it (in a regulated mod - it's vital in a mech) because the battery never sees the coil. Although, as you pointed out earlier, it can give you an idea of what wattage a person will be vaping at. Still, it's much easier (and more accurate) just to use the wattage.
There's a great explanation from Mooch here.
Here's a quick procedure for picking your batteries:
1. Figure out what size you need. It'll be something like 18650, 20700, 217000, and your mod's documentation should tell you what it uses.
2. Your batteries should come from a reliable manufacturer, Sony/Murata, Samsung, Sanyo/Panasonic, LG, or Molicel, and have been tested by Mooch. To simplify things, select one batteries from Mooch's recommended table, which @Katya posted above.
3. To pick the right battery from the table, you'll need to take note of its CDR (in amps), which is included in the table. Divide the maximum wattage you ever vape at by three. The CDR of a battery that will work for you must be HIGHER than this number.
4. Once you've identified the batteries you can use (in step 3), pick a model with a higher capacity (mAh). The higher the capacity, the longer it will last between charges (provided it's got the right CDR).
5. Buy your batteries from a trustworthy vendor. Several are listed in the blue row on Mooch's chart. You mentioned Illumn, which is one of the good ones, so you're OK there.
Good luck, and if you have any questions, feel free to ask.
This is from @Baditude 's blog entry:
(9) Battery Basics for Mods; the Ultimate Battery Guide | E-Cigarette Forum
scroll down to the section: Regulated Electronic Mods
He is another person who knows that when calculating battery draw on a Regulated Mod, Resistance isn't a factor
(9) Battery Basics for Mods; the Ultimate Battery Guide | E-Cigarette Forum
scroll down to the section: Regulated Electronic Mods
He is another person who knows that when calculating battery draw on a Regulated Mod, Resistance isn't a factor
Button top are only used on a few specific Mods or Vape devices.
Best leave them for your flashlight batteries.
Another place for your batteries 18650 Battery-26650 14500 16340 Quality Li-ion Cells | ORBTRONIC
Richard, I'm not a sub ohm DL Vaper, so I thought i'd go with highest 3000 mAh & 15/35A IMR ... After looking a charts I just ordered Molicel/NPE INR-18650-P26A 35A 2600mAh Flat Top for both eleaf 75 & Geek solo 100w. Just wanted to get damn Sept 9/ ordering madness over with. I'm miffed at how much money I blew & still cameup short about $60 worth of juice but I hit my bank limit. I lost my damn mind? Thanks to everyone for providing all.this great Updated Battery Info Source in one place
Last edited:
Thank you I picked 2 Molicel/NPE INR-18650-P26A 35A 2600mAh Flat Top from Mooch chart to be on safe side till I wrap my head around all these battery functions
Nice one Fstop, the Molicel P26A are really good all round batteries. They will work just fine in your mods.
If you only vape at low wattage, you can get away with a reasonable low current battery (Amps). The milliamp rating of the battery is the figure that means how long the battery will run for before it needs charging.
There is always a trade off between the CDR value measured in Amps and the capacity measured in milliamps. Normally the higher the amps, the lower the milliamps.
Some batteries are designed having high output at 30A for high wattage use but will have a lower run time between charges 2000mA.
Some batteries have a lower Amp rating of 15A but have and increased run time of 3000mA.
The Molicel P26A are one of the batteries that cater for both options pretty well.
Batteries, vg, pg, & flavors every few years -- that's all -- praying in between that they remain available to us and the mods hold up.Indeed. We'll all be vaping for free for the next 20 years if not more.
On the majority of mods with multiple cells, the resistance of the coil still has an impact on the maximum wattage because they lack a boost circuit and have an output voltage range of 7.5V - 5V instead.
7.5V when the cells are fully charged, 5V when they're almost empty.
That means you can dial in 100W on a dual cell mod and with a 0.25ohm coil, the mod will deliver enough voltage to reach 100W even when the cells are almost empty. (5V^2/0.25ohm=100W)
Now attach a 0.5ohm coil. Doing the math, the mod will deliver 100W with fully charged cells no problem.
(7,5V^2/0.5ohm=112W max)
With half depleted cells, the output voltage is too low to provide 100W though.
(6.75V^2/0.5ohm=91W max)
If you attach a 0.75ohm coil however, the mod will not be able to put out enough voltage to reach 100W even with fully charged cells.
(7.5V^2/0.75ohm=75W).
When looking at the output side of a regulated mod, chip to atomiser, then yes, the coil will play a part when looking at maximum wattage obtainable. Ohms law in terms of P=V2/R and P=I2xR applies to the output side only, it should not be confused and should not be used when discussing the input side of the regulator, battery to chip, to determine battery drain.
I suggest you look back at the thread and see at what point the statement you implied appears because I cant find it.
If your referring to my comment regarding ohms dont come into the equation when calculating current draw/drain on a regulated mod then your wrong, it's not bull**it, that's correct.
For reference, your comment that resistance of a coil doesnt matter "too much" is ambiguous. It either does or it doesnt, and in the case when calculating current drain in a regulated mod, which was what was being discussed, coil resistance doesnt matter AT ALL.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked