RM2 Question

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JC Okie

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vape nerd, it'll come with the RM2, and you may or may not need to use it. You want your air hole in the RM2 to be facing away from you when you vape so that the air intake is not obstructed. When you screw the RM2 into the 510 connector, it may or may not face the way you need it to. The o-ring will help you adjust that placement so that it's facing out, or away from you when you vape. It goes down in the drip well around the connector, then you screw the atty in. I have a couple of REO/RM2s that I use it on, and a couple that I don't need it on. You'll see when you get it, but that's it. They're tiny (extra thin) and easily lost, so pay attention. :)



EDIT: Yours is coming tomorrow? You are in for a HUGE treat! The RM2 will take REO vaping to a whole new level. Be excited. :)
 
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Big Hitter

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I ring goes in the catch cup. I don't use them. No leaks and they line up.


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See mine leaks like crazy if I don't use that O-ring and think SuperX said the same .... he actually searched out a thicker O-ring I believe.

By leaking I mean the catch cup filling when sitting for long periods unused.
I think it all depends on the connector how much will drain back out if you don't use the o-ring.
 

the_vape_nerd

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vape nerd, it'll come with the RM2, and you may or may not need to use it. You want your air hole in the RM2 to be facing away from you when you vape so that the air intake is not obstructed. When you screw the RM2 into the 510 connector, it may or may not face the way you need it to. The o-ring will help you adjust that placement so that it's facing out, or away from you when you vape. It goes down in the drip well around the connector, then you screw the atty in. I have a couple of REO/RM2s that I use it on, and a couple that I don't need it on. You'll see when you get it, but that's it. They're tiny (extra thin) and easily lost, so pay attention. :)



EDIT: Yours is coming tomorrow? You are in for a HUGE treat! The RM2 will take REO vaping to a whole new level. Be excited. :)

Thank yall for the quick replies. I actually have a bogger box not a reo yet but that will change in a week or so.
 

FeistyAlice

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See mine leaks like crazy if I don't use that O-ring and think SuperX said the same .... he actually searched out a thicker O-ring I believe.

By leaking I mean the catch cup filling when sitting for long periods unused.
I think it all depends on the connector how much will drain back out if you don't use the o-ring.

I have one REO Mini 2.0, pretty old, that is the only one I really need an o-ring with. I'm suspecting that it needs attachment gasket replacement as it leaks, not only into well, but into internals. I used 2 of the thin 0-rings, included with RM2, but that didn't stop the minor leaking into well. Using an o-ring for 6 ml bottles stopped the leaking into well but there is still a bit into REO internals. All my other RM2s, on other REOs, do perfectly well without any o-rings. Luckily the cap air holes line up for my index finger vaping. Otherwise I would use the o-ring for positioning the cap air hole. I do use the included o-ring, for RM2, on a couple to make cap hole perfectly lined up. The center pin insulator, on REO atty attachment, will vary on alll REOs somewhat influenced by age and what attys/cartos have been used and how tightly they have been tightened down. The silicone center post is pretty resilient but does age and deform over time. I'm still using a very early Mini 1.0 that has no issues with the atty attachment silicone insulator but my, most frequently used Mini 2.0 is showing signs that I need to to a partial rebuild due to juice into internals.

Feisty Alice
 
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darkzero

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I always use orings in the catch cup but not for sealing purposes. I like my atties to be tight and not be able to unscrew or twist unless I really need them too. If I twist my cap, the atty wont turn. For me the 1mm thick orings are too thin. I use 1.5mm orings on most of my Reos & on one I use a 1/16" thick oring for it's atty to line up properly with the right resistance (tightness of the atty).

My buddy tightened the cap on his RM2 too tight once & couldn't get it off. So I installed the 1.5mm oring on his too. Problem solved but this makes it a lot harder to removed tbe atty base by hand. For me that's ok cause I rarely remove the atty base from the Reo.
 

the_vape_nerd

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Hey all,

To update, I got the RM2 last Friday when I got home from work. I went ahead and built my coil per super x's instructions and did an ok job. It metered at 1.45 but I was using 28 ga kanthal instead of the 27 super x uses, mainly b/c this is what the Reo's website had in stock. Anyway, it vapes really well at 1.45 but I'll be experimenting as I go forward.

I didn't use the o-ring at all on my bogger and I've not experienced any leaking at all.

Here's a follow up for you guys though.

When I first screwed the rm2 down, i got a perfect line up in that the hole was directly away from the way i vape. The 2nd time I screwed it down thoug my hole had move a bit, the 3rd time it move even more and it now resting at like a 3 o clock position but it still vapes fine.

Any theories on why this is and what can be done to make it line up properly?

Also, I see by reading that the o-ring can help this problem but my question is how?

I know you guys mostly have Reos but this is a Bogger, is there anything in particular to my mod I should know about?
 

MamaTried

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I know you guys mostly have Reos but this is a Bogger, is there anything in particular to my mod I should know about?

the only thing peculiar to the Booger is to sell it in the classies to finance another Reo, which is what i'll be doing with mine once i get off my lazy azz...
 

ancient puffer

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The o-ring is just to keep you from OVERtightening the atty. I don't think it was intended to prevent leaks. Since it has some "give" to it, you have a bit of adjustment for lineup, without tightening so much that you compress the insulator in the connector (of the mod), which would result in a short.
 

nerak

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Hey all,

To update, I got the RM2 last Friday when I got home from work. I went ahead and built my coil per super x's instructions and did an ok job. It metered at 1.45 but I was using 28 ga kanthal instead of the 27 super x uses, mainly b/c this is what the Reo's website had in stock. Anyway, it vapes really well at 1.45 but I'll be experimenting as I go forward.

I didn't use the o-ring at all on my bogger and I've not experienced any leaking at all.

Here's a follow up for you guys though.

When I first screwed the rm2 down, i got a perfect line up in that the hole was directly away from the way i vape. The 2nd time I screwed it down thoug my hole had move a bit, the 3rd time it move even more and it now resting at like a 3 o clock position but it still vapes fine.

Any theories on why this is and what can be done to make it line up properly?

Also, I see by reading that the o-ring can help this problem but my question is how?

I know you guys mostly have Reos but this is a Bogger, is there anything in particular to my mod I should know about?

Some people have used an o-ring on the threads of the cap. That gives a little adjustment if needed to line up the hole. The hole should be located next to where you build your coil. On that side.

Some have used a thicker o-ring on the bottom of the RM2 to allow a degree of adjustment for placing the hole in the RM2 facing up. In other words, up when vaping.
 
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