RM2 Wick & Coil Setups
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It's 6 or 7 wraps. One side is definitely getting hotter than the other.
Ok. Try using a 1/16" drillbit, or nail to wrap a 10 wrap coil. Wrap it tight so the coils touch. Scrunch em together. When you install in the RBA, leave the coil on the drillbit / nail. Pull the wire thru the posts until the coils are very close to the posts. Tighten down the screws. Use the drillbit / nail to move the coil away from the posts and into position making sure the coils are centered between the posts and the same distance off the posts.
Once the coil is in position, give the screws another tighten. Then insert wick. Let the wick get good and saturated before firing it. How's that vape?
One of the things about the Reomizer 2, or RM2, is that the ceramic base almost seems to be made for stainless steel mesh wicks: it allows them to be used without having to oxidize them first.
The procedure is almost identical to what superxdrifter is doing, except that you wrap an insanely small (2mm x 4mmm) amount of mesh around your drill bit and coil that.
It's worth trying SS mesh, besides the fact that the RM2 can easily handle it: a) It doesn't scorch as easily as silica or cotton; b) this method leaves a hollow core to easily conduct juice to the coil; and (perhaps most importantly) c) once it's oxidized after a few vapes, it's one of the best methods for getting all of the flavor out of your juice. Just as cotton fanatics claim that silica mutes their flavors more, SS aficionados claim the same thing about cotton (though I don't think it's as drastic as going from silica to cotton).
I'd also say it's an even draw for long term ease of use. Yes, it's possible to re wick cotton but it can be difficult for the sight challenged to do it, and SS setups last longer. It boils down to personal preferences.
If you're an old hand, you've probably got some lying around (Hell, when I reorganized my vaping supplies, I still had blue foam left!), so why not give it a try?
And next coil setup, superx, I'm going to try your touching multi-coil method. Might even do it this morning if time (and the wife) allows.
I've got a few sheets of it, and some more 30 ga kanthal on the way, so I'll gladly coil you up if you're attending the Re(o)gional meet on May 4th in glorious Lake Murray, Oklahoma.
Humm, I may have to give this a shot in the 2.0. It does sound easy enough. Thanks Clyde.
Other than threading those tiny damned holes, it's supremely easy; you're welcome. Thank you for your excellent tutorial on micro-coiling, sir.
super_x_drifter, I didn't realize the micro-coils were supposed to be touching. I spaced mine a hair apart all the way across thinking they were supposed to be separated. I'll try this next time. I'm going to give this setup some more time to see if it needs more juice to "break-in". Everything but the flavor is good. I just need to get that dialed-in and this will be rocking.
clyde2801, I don't have mesh so I can't try that though I will order some to try in the future per your post.
Thanks for the info!
After receiving my ribbon wire and SS mesh I'll try and wrap a coil and see how it goes
A word of caution for anyone attempting to make their coils this small - don't let em fall in the squonk hole! JK, it would be damn near impossible. The squonk hole does give a point of reference of how small this coil is though. Went back to using the picture nail because it produces a less than 1/16" ID coil, allowing for more wraps without bumping up the ohms. Perfect for the Grando.
FYI, i'm glad I took these pix - looks like a cat hair in there and I dont even have a cat (and we know it didn't come from my head)! Anyhoo, removed the hair / fiber and will go vape the living dog piss out of it now
Kay - do those screws look familiar - Yes they work on a 2.0
. Kay gives a danm good screw.
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I don't have a "museum piece/work of art" to show like Super-X does but I'm loving the new 2.0 RBA. I'm sure it could be flooded/made to leak, but compared to the 1.0 it's almost "leak/flood proof." This photo does show how close your coils can get to the ceramic base and still have no "shorts" and still give a good ohm reading.
Thanks for making these for us Rob. This RBA has several improvements over the 1.0. The ceramic base, the recessed parts, the sturdier build, etc.
I'm using 30g kanthal and cotton as my wick and did a 4 wrap "sidewinder" and got a .99ohm reading on this build.
Thanks for making these for us Rob. This RBA has several improvements over the 1.0. The ceramic base, the recessed parts, the sturdier build, etc.
I'm using 30g kanthal and cotton as my wick and did a 4 wrap "sidewinder" and got a .99ohm reading on this build.
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I beg to differ Norman, your build looks fantastic. Nice clean, efficient setup
hell yeah.And thank you for the compliment
Tried this "micro" setup with no noticeable change. I'll try a SS setup, as Clyde suggested, on my next bottle. Speaking of next bottle, I noticed with the cotton wick I've been plowing through some juice! I have a few drops of a 6ml bottle left, which was topped off early this A.M.
I'm really curious about the following SS setup:
An unoxidized wick rolled onto a paper clip (so there would be a small hole in the center), wedged into the feeding hole. After it comes out of the hole, it should be possible to bend it to go in front of the posts (it should be flexible since it's not oxidized). Pulse-fire oxidation after that, not on a Reo to prevent melting the spring.
This way, each squonk should immediately saturate the entire wick through the middle hole.
Unfortunately, I don't have the new reomizer yet, so can't try. Maybe one of you can be my test guppy?
An unoxidized wick rolled onto a paper clip (so there would be a small hole in the center), wedged into the feeding hole. After it comes out of the hole, it should be possible to bend it to go in front of the posts (it should be flexible since it's not oxidized). Pulse-fire oxidation after that, not on a Reo to prevent melting the spring.
This way, each squonk should immediately saturate the entire wick through the middle hole.
Unfortunately, I don't have the new reomizer yet, so can't try. Maybe one of you can be my test guppy?
I use the Aunt Lydia's Bamboo #10 thread, boiled for 20 minutes, both on the Reomizer 2.0 and the ERA.
30 gauge kanthal, 5 wraps on this 1/16" screwdriver:
Bamboo thread, double over twice and inserted into this "needle" I made from kanthal:
Add DIY Menthol Tobacco:
It usually comes out to 1.2-1.3 ohms, which is fairly warm on the ERA, but pretty cool on the R2.0
30 gauge kanthal, 5 wraps on this 1/16" screwdriver:
Bamboo thread, double over twice and inserted into this "needle" I made from kanthal:
Add DIY Menthol Tobacco:
It usually comes out to 1.2-1.3 ohms, which is fairly warm on the ERA, but pretty cool on the R2.0
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Keep us informed
I am curios about SS mesh
Whats Ribbon wire?
Your inglish is getting gooder Curly ,Im impressed
I think in 5 years this will all be done with lasers and we will look back at all this and laugh
I think in 5 years this will all be done with lasers and we will look back at all this and laugh
Lasers? Naah, infrared is the ticket!!
A little tidbit of info on my latest build - Notice how the coil / wick sits higher on the side that is over the squonk hole on the theory that squozen juice would bubble up and hit the coil and wick than run down to the opposing low side, wetting the entire coil in the process.
It seems that this subtlety allows the excess juice to return, unobstructed, into the hole and I notice a difference in the vape quality because juice does not collect in the bowl (cooling the coil) as it did when I pressed the coil low on the hole side.
Yeah. I'm into subtleties.
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