Rtda vs subtank

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HigherStateD

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I don't get the whole rdta thing....isnt and rdta same thing like a sub rebuildable tank?? Is there different characteristic in vaping it?? U just fill it from drip tip but u can put more juice??? That's all there is about it?
As I understand it, an rta is designed from the ground up yo be rebuilt. An sub-tank RBA head is retrofit, and thus, usually small and hard to build bigger builds on. An rdta is an rda with wick holes to a tank below the build deck.
 

Spydro

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@Superuser187 - "sub rebuildable tank"- is a highly generic term that could be construed by some folks to encompass carto tanks, RBA's, RTA's, RDTA's or others for some examples. You'd need to be more descriptive of what other tank style you want to compare a RDTA to for a complete answer.

I agree with what @HigherStateD gave as a description of an RDTA. The RDTA's were my first choice of tanks for my style of vaping, especially the Geek Vape Avocado 22 & 24 tanks way back in my coil days, but later the Wotofo Profile Unity Mesh RTA's (and Profile Mesh RDA's) ruled the roost when I switched to only vaping mesh.

Avocado RDTA's
avo6s.jpg
Profile Unity Mesh RTA's
WPUx5s.jpg
 

mimöschen

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There are two kinds of RDTA.
On the first one the build deck sits on top of the tank with the coils close to your mouth just like on an RDA.
The Vapefly Brunhilde is one of those for example.

The second kind like the Steamcrave Aromamizer looks like a traditional RTA/RBA atty, but the airflow comes in from the side rather than from the bottom.
 
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sonicbomb

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The term subohm tank is a bit of an anachronism. It dates from a time when the idea of a coil in a tank being less than one ohm was a novelty. If you use a regulated device the resistance of the coil doesn't really matter in the context of power delivery.
Back then people were using low resistance coils on unregulated devices to achieve high power levels. Marketers wanted a buzz word to promote their new tanks designed to produce a lot of vapor. Hence 'subohm' and 'subohm tank' became synonymous with tanks that could produce a lot of vapor.


RDA - Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer

RTA - Rebuildable Tank Atomizer
Can be thought of (in most cases) as an RDA submerged in juice, inside a tank.

RDTA - Rebuildable Dripping Tank Atomizer
Some strange mashup of an RDA and an RTA. Think of it like an RDA but with the wicks going down into a tank below the coils. I've never gotten on with them, to me it's a case of why do one thing well when you can do two things half arsed. The wicks usually end up too long to work properly, meaning that you end up mostly dripping, so why bother with the tank? This of course is just, like, my opinion man, so if RDTAs are your thing don't feel the need to set me on fire.

Ih8Xejz.jpg
 
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HigherStateD

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This of course is just, like, my opinion man, so if RDTAs are your thing don't feel the need to set me on fire.
And a good opinion it is. To make matters worse, some yahoo decided to make squonkable RDTAs. Squonk juice into the tank when it empties, and leave the wicks just plugging the wick holes. In order to wet them, they tip the mod... I assume this was to alleviate over squonking, as the reservoir is transparent... Over-engineering to the max...
 
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Spydro

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RDTA - Rebuildable Dripping Tank Atomizer
Some strange mashup of an RDA and an RTA. Think of it like an RDA but with the wicks going down into a tank below the coils. I've never gotten on with them, to me it's a case of why do one thing well when you can do two things half arsed. The wicks usually end up too long to work properly, meaning that you end up mostly dripping, so why bother with the tank? This of course is just, like, my opinion man, so if RDTAs are your thing don't feel the need to set me on fire.

Ih8Xejz.jpg

No firestorms will come from me, opinions are just that and can be either accepted as right or wrong by anyone else.

I don't agree with everything you said about the RDTA's though, because.... of all the tanks I have of every description they worked the best for my uses (especially the Avocado's). Maybe in the first years because when I started vaping I tried many various types of gear options and what worked the best for me was mostly mech tube mods running RDA's. IOW the earliest gear was all MTL gear that ran high ohm coils (1.1Ω-2.5Ω) when what worked for me was DL gear with sub to super sub ohm coils for dense flavorful vapor. The Avo's were a very easy build, not at all problematic to wick nor did they leak like many of the other tanks I had at the time. FWIW, my Avo wicks just barely went thru the build deck and never failed to keep up with my DL style even if chain vaping. An enlargement of the picture of them I posted above shows no wicks down in the tanks.

I stopped using coil gear around 2.5 years ago (switched to mesh gear). I wouldn't ever go back to coil atty's, but if I did in a tank it would those 6 Avo's.

YMMV

avocloseup.jpg
 

Superuser187

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The term subohm tank is a bit of an anachronism. It dates from a time when the idea of a coil in a tank being less than one ohm was a novelty. If you use a regulated device the resistance of the coil doesn't really matter in the context of power delivery.
Back then people were using low resistance coils on unregulated devices to achieve high power levels. Marketers wanted a buzz word to promote their new tanks designed to produce a lot of vapor. Hence 'subohm' and 'subohm tank' became synonymous with tanks that could produce a lot of vapor.


RDA - Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer

RTA - Rebuildable Tank Atomizer
Can be thought of (in most cases) as an RDA submerged in juice, inside a tank.

RDTA - Rebuildable Dripping Tank Atomizer
Some strange mashup of an RDA and an RTA. Think of it like an RDA but with the wicks going down into a tank below the coils. I've never gotten on with them, to me it's a case of why do one thing well when you can do two things half arsed. The wicks usually end up too long to work properly, meaning that you end up mostly dripping, so why bother with the tank? This of course is just, like, my opinion man, so if RDTAs are your thing don't feel the need to set me on fire.

Ih8Xejz.jpg
And so many less acronyms.

For a non-vaper some of our conversations must sound like secret code. :D

oh man...first time i vaped it was like 2013 and i stoped cause of stupid reason anyways and i come back 3 months ago and i dont understand a word u guys say...my brain everyday feels tired from learning all that stuff and i dont spik eglis veri well also....rip me hahahaha
 

Fidola13

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No firestorms will come from me, opinions are just that and can be either accepted as right or wrong by anyone else.

I don't agree with everything you said about the RDTA's though, because.... of all the tanks I have of every description they worked the best for my uses (especially the Avocado's). Maybe in the first years because when I started vaping I tried many various types of gear options and what worked the best for me was mostly mech tube mods running RDA's. IOW the earliest gear was all MTL gear that ran high ohm coils (1.1Ω-2.5Ω) when what worked for me was DL gear with sub to super sub ohm coils for dense flavorful vapor. The Avo's were a very easy build, not at all problematic to wick nor did they leak like many of the other tanks I had at the time. FWIW, my Avo wicks just barely went thru the build deck and never failed to keep up with my DL style even if chain vaping. An enlargement of the picture of them I posted above shows no wicks down in the tanks.

I stopped using coil gear around 2.5 years ago (switched to mesh gear). I wouldn't ever go back to coil atty's, but if I did in a tank it would those 6 Avo's.

YMMV

View attachment 905827

agreed if you are wicking it correctly an rdta wicks should be barely visible at the top of the tank.

Maybe the the poster was thinking of gennies that have various types of wicks that are fully submersed in the tank.
 

Superuser187

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agreed if you are wicking it correctly an rdta wicks should be barely visible at the top of the tank.

Maybe the the poster was thinking of gennies that have various types of wicks that are fully submersed in the tank.

Hmmmmm....how the juice goes to the cotton if it's not touching or inside the ejuice??? Just curious hmmmmm....
 

Superuser187

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When you take a hit, the juice is sucked up the juice channels to the wick.

Ok I thought that....but that means that in rdtas the juice movement when u puff is visible?????? And btw that means the wicking shouldn't be dence much in the wicking channels cause it's the only place that it can draw air?? Cause there could be a vacuum lock if not....hmmmmmmmmm interesting....well I guess that applies to all tanks that seal 100%
 

Mordacai

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@Superuser187, RDTA's do suffer errata and have their own little quirks with each and every one.

But they're probably the easiest to work with, as you don't end up with negative air pressure building up in the reservoir which can happen with RTA's.

Also there's a few that use steel cable to transport liquid to the deck. Such as Vapefly Brunhilde (MTL and DTL versions), Taifun GX (Ulton do a good clone with different airflow inserts available) and the Wotofo Profile.

But you are right in thinking that you can drip with them as well, that's the D in RDTA.
 

Oregon Linda

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Ok I thought that....but that means that in rdtas the juice movement when u puff is visible?????? And btw that means the wicking shouldn't be dence much in the wicking channels cause it's the only place that it can draw air?? Cause there could be a vacuum lock if not....hmmmmmmmmm interesting....well I guess that applies to all tanks that seal 100%

I always wick my RTAs with short wicks whacked off right at the top of the juice channels. Then I juice them down so they touch the deck in front of the channel. When I see videos telling people to stuff the wick into the juice channels, I just shake my head.
 
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UncLeJunkLe

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    This is the best way I understand it and can explain it.

    RTA - just like with any other tank that takes a factory coil, the tank that holds the juice surrounds the coil deck/chamber it relies on negative pressure inside to feed juice to the wick.

    RDTA - does not reply on negative pressure and kinda like a RDA. But instead of it relying on the user to drip juice on the coil and wick, it has a tank below the deck/chamber and the wicks simply hang into the tank and wick up the juice.

    However, there are other types of tanks that people call "RDTA" I have seen over the years that are not designed this way. In fact, I have one called the Taifun GS. The tank sits above the chamber and uses tubes, mesh or even small cotton wicks to feed the juice to the coil/wick below.

    3163200-9.jpg


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    Spydro

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    agreed if you are wicking it correctly an rdta wicks should be barely visible at the top of the tank.

    Maybe the the poster was thinking of gennies that have various types of wicks that are fully submersed in the tank.

    FWIW, I liked the Avocado's so much that other RDTA's didn't appeal to me or see much use. That said, short wicking is not how life started with Avocado's in their early reviews anyway. The reviews out on the Avocado's when they first came out (22's 3/2016 and 24's 5/2016) showed the proper way to wick them was with the tails cut long enough to reach the bottom of the tank. Others reviews came along after with the wicks getting shorter and shorter until I saw some reviews that more closely followed my wicking method. So folks learned that less is more in the Avocado's anyway.

    Here's a couple of screen shots of an Avo 24 YT review I had bookmarked dated June 9, 2016... the tails were cut long and when tucked in reached the bottom of the tank. IMO unsightly, totally unnecessary and I heard from others they sometimes caused other issues.
    Avo Review Wicking.jpg
    Avo Review Wicking 2.jpg

    At the time the Avocado's first came out I was running a forum in South Africa instead of this one (for about 1.5 years starting from 3/2016). The good folks down there followed the suggested long wicking for them... I didn't. They had problems, I didn't, so they soon followed my lead or at least shortened the wicks so they could just barely be seen. In my builds the wicking did not come down into the tank at all. They were cut to just get thru the hole to the bottom of the deck base itself. IOW, even with the clear glass installed you couldn't see my wicks at all. I know that was slitting hairs maybe, but in my way of thinking the wicks had to act like a plug to stop any liquid from getting thru the holes in the deck when I tilted the mod to vape, and that tilt would feed the wick ends just fine and eliminated the unkept look of long wicks down in the tank. Given it took the exact amount of wick, but how much to use was very easy to learn and adjust for. I also typically wrapped 2.5mm & 3mm coils for the 22's; 3mm & 4mm for the 24's. So in all cases that was more than enough wick to keep up with my vaping style.
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