Russian 91% leaking issue!!

[Vap4que]

I have a serious problem with my Russian 91%! the device is leaking when I fill it. It seemed to start after the first time build. looks like the oring for the top cap is not sealing properly. I say this because when this problem started, Replaced it with the new one that came with the device and it seemed to solve the problem. Then when I went to clean, replace the wick and change juice, it leaks again?

Has anyone had this problem? I don't know what to do here?

 

[JimzDogz]

Yes, it seems to be typical of the Russian 91%. You can reduce the leakage by using a syringe or needle point bottle for filling the tank. That will reduce the amount of back pressure in the tank, by allowing the air to escape when filling. Their may still be a little leakage from the drip tip, but no flooding. Just wipe the liquid from the outside of your tank and tip, then blow through the tip and it should be ready to go.

 

[Vap4que]

Thanks for the input. I have actually tried this and when i hold it upright, it leaks from the air hole in the bottom? I am wondering if it is just not sealing correctly at the oring in the top cap and causing it to leak?

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

Hmmm... it does sound like a cap o-ring issue, unless you're flooding it while filling. Does it clear up with use?

 

[JimzDogz]

I also have had leaking from the air hole on my Russian 91%. That usually happens when the tank is almost empty, I haven't figured that one out yet. Note; I'm using a vertical chimney coil with hemp fiber packing in my R91.

 

[JimzDogz]

Thanks for the input. I have actually tried this and when i hold it upright, it leaks from the air hole in the bottom? I am wondering if it is just not sealing correctly at the oring in the top cap and causing it to leak?

Sounds like you may be getting some wick in the fluid channels that will also cause flooding. Also when assembling the R91 make sure that you tighten the coil chamber and cap down good and tight, if left too loose it can cause leaking.

 

[Vap4que]

I am checking on the wicking issue now but when i remove the top cap, i notice that the oring is sliding down the chimney? this can't be good.

 

[State O' Flux]

"Pressure Differential". Remember that phrase and read the article in the link, because that's how most of our atomizers operate. Once you understand how they work, you are better equipped to correct problems.

Kayfun type atomizers use pressure boundary to keep juice in the tank and off your PV and hands. A bit more technical than a more simple clearo atomizer with a wick serving as a seal. Pressure boundary is quite reliable, but first the pressure differential has to be established - if not, whatever juice is inside, will soon be outside.

When working properly, there is predominately vacuum (negative pressure) in the tank... so blowing in the dt (positive pressure), especially with the vent hole covered, will actually serve to reduce whatever vacuum you've been trying so hard to establish. You absolutely want a vacuum in the fluid tank, not only to aid in keeping fluid in, but for proper feeding of fluid to your wick system.

Forget about filling the tank from the filler hole - very few people do it because it's slow and a general PITA. The majority of all Kayfun type atty users fill their attys by removing the top cap. Follow below:

1. Cover the air vent hole.
2. Remove top cap and fill from top, to top of tank section.
3. Install top cap 1 to 2 turns... sufficient to engage the chimney seal o-ring.
4. Invert Atomizer.
5. Uncover air vent hole.
6. Complete tightening of top cap.

The 4-6 parts are all done in one relatively smooth motion.

If you have atomizing chamber flooding/drip tip gurgling/leaking out the vent hole conditions, you did the above incorrectly. To fix this, cover the vent hole and suck on the dt to improve the quality of vacuum in the tank. Take a test draw - if the condition still exists, repeat the sucking on dt with vent covered. The idea hear is to create a vacuum in the tank that you somehow were unable to create during the refilling process.

If you still have external leaking issues, then you have a pure mechanical problem. damaged o-rings or threads - or metal sealing surfaces in the R91 that are damaging the o-rings.
Although removing the top cap may cause the chimney to unscrew from the atty base (this can be a semi-normal occurrence), the chimney sealing o-ring should stay in the top cap when you remove it. If not, if it "clings" to the chimney tube every time, then a dimension is out of spec, or the o-ring is damaged.

 

[JimzDogz]

I am checking on the wicking issue now but when i remove the top cap, i notice that the oring is sliding down the chimney? this can't be good.

The o-ring is probably causing the leaking out of your drip tip when filling. But that leaking shouldn't cause leaking from the air hole. Because the liquid would have to leak into the drip then run back down the chimney and out the air hole. That would be pretty unlikely unless you have a massive leak at the o-ring. I suggest that you try filling the tank from the top instead of the bottom fill screw. If it doesn't leak you will know that it's the o-ring.

 

[Vap4que]

I appreciate the feed back here. I have a Kayfun lite + also and have never had this issue with that. The build is exactly the same on both. When the Russian works it is perfect. I have reached out to the dealer and hope they can help. There is no reason why this device would behave differently than the Kayfun unless I am missing something.

 

[KAS129]

Sounds like the o-ring at the top of the chimney needs replaced. If it allows air in it breaks the vacuum in the tank and allows fluid to leak out. O-ring swelling and leaking out the air hole at the base is common problem in Kayfuns and by association I would assume the Russian. For your info should you need it, my research seems to show the Kayfun o-ring is 1.5mm cross section 8mm dia. OD 5mm dia. ID ,not sure its the same on Russian. I would suggest Viton if you can find them as they are supposed to be resistant to solvents and oils.

 

[tdtyler]

"
Forget about filling the tank from the filler hole - very few people do it because it's slow and a general PITA. The majority of all Kayfun type atty users fill their attys by removing the top cap. Follow below:

1. Cover the air vent hole.
2. Remove top cap and fill from top, to top of tank section.
3. Install top cap 1 to 2 turns... sufficient to engage the chimney seal o-ring.
4. Invert Atomizer.
5. Uncover air vent hole.
6. Complete tightening of top cap.

The 4-6 parts are all done in one relatively smooth motion.

If you have atomizing chamber flooding/drip tip gurgling/leaking out the vent hole conditions, you did the above incorrectly. To fix this, cover the vent hole and suck on the dt to improve the quality of vacuum in the tank. Take a test draw - if the condition still exists, repeat the sucking on dt with vent covered. The idea hear is to create a vacuum in the tank that you somehow were unable to create during the refilling process.

Thank you, thank you, thank you! The filling procedure is one piece that I was missing - I'm having the same problem with my genuine (Kebo) Russian 91%.

Right now, all is well with the Russian. My biggest problem is "weeping" out the air intake hole. As the juice is depleted in the tank, the problem starts and gets worse. I'll keep watching here for possible solutions. At least I know how to establish the vacuum now.

 

[State O' Flux]

Thank you, thank you, thank you! The filling procedure is one piece that I was missing - I'm having the same problem with my genuine (Kebo) Russian 91%.

Right now, all is well with the Russian. My biggest problem is "weeping" out the air intake hole. As the juice is depleted in the tank, the problem starts and gets worse. I'll keep watching here for possible solutions. At least I know how to establish the vacuum now.

You are welcome TD. This thread contains much of the above information in more detail, with - among other bits of info - explanation as to how the steps serve specific functions.
It's a bit of a read, and I apologize for the wordiness, but I attempted to cover a lot of ground within a few posts.

Cheers ;-)

 

[tdtyler]

One more thing... If anyone knows where to buy and assemble a replacement O ring kit for the Russian, I'd be grateful for the source.

 

[State O' Flux]

One more thing... If anyone knows where to buy and assemble a replacement O ring kit for the Russian, I'd be grateful for the source.

Short of finding a vendor that carries spare parts kits for them - taken from actual measurements of new, genuine Kebo/UCT Russian 91% o-rings - the o-rings of primary importance are:

- Main body/tube o-rings (X4): 0.90mm thick X 18.0mm ID
(You'll note that this first o-ring in the list is available from a wristwatch supply house. Short of ordering from a Asian or European o-ring supply (or just getting lucky)... I've found that for many of the larger diameter - sub 1.0mm, 0.1mm incremental cross-section - o-rings... wristwatch supply houses will be your most likely source. The vast majority of quality wristwatch o-rings (when unspecified) are Buna N 50 or better, and occasionally Viton 75 FKM. A more common 1.0mm o-ring could be substituted, but it may make assembly / disassembly very difficult. )

- Chimney tube/top cap o-ring (X1): 1.6mm thick X 4.7mm ID
("The O-ring Store" is an excellent source of high quality o-rings and my first choice... when a choice is possible)

Just to point it out, a nice part for the money - an inexpensive, plastic, one piece tank/tube that will fit Kayfun, Russian and 1:1 dimensional (threading) clones - can be found at here MadVapes.

 

[tdtyler]

You are welcome TD. This thread contains much of the above information in more detail, with - among other bits of info - explanation as to how the steps serve specific functions.
It's a bit of a read, and I apologize for the wordiness, but I attempted to cover a lot of ground within a few posts.

Cheers ;-)

State O Flux...

Wow! Great read in the thread link you posted. I'm very grateful for the information AND the way it was presented. Good job!

Okay. Progress here. All of my problems are user error and NOT the fault of the device.

1. I over filled the tank leaving no room for air to do the negative vacuum thing. Result: Leaking out the airhole.
2. Didn't put the device back together properly. O-rings misaligned or not present. Result: Leaking around the seams.
3. Improper initialization of the device after fill/refill. Failed to establish negative pressure. Result: Leaking out the airhole and gurgling or (ACK!) burned cotton wick.
4. Here's a good one: Fail to double-check coil for shorts. Result: Nearly exploded battery, burn spot on my hand and burned lip. (One of the blocks where you attach the coil had spun around a little bit because it was loose. Positive block touched negative block. Result: Burns!)

Bottom line: Take your time. Do it right. Get information from super-smart people right here.

Let's see... I'm going to need replacement o-rings for sure. Next stop: Amazon for watch-repair o-rings, unless any of you have a solid source for a pre-assembled kit of o-rings for Russian 91% or Kayfun Lite Plus.

One more thing: Here's a great reading instruction manual:

http://www.meshweaver.com/temp/vaping/SVOEMESTO_KAYFUN_v3.1ES_USER_MANUAL.pdf

Edit:
I see State O Flux included the user manual link in his other post linked in message above. I'm going to leave my link here, but State O Flux deserves the credit.

Edit:
State 'O Flux also included links to correct size o-rings. I missed that before. Thank you, again!

 

[State O' Flux]

Okay. Progress here. All of my problems are user error and NOT the fault of the device.

1. I over filled the tank leaving no room for air to do the negative vacuum thing. Result: Leaking out the airhole.
2. Didn't put the device back together properly. O-rings misaligned or not present. Result: Leaking around the seams.
3. Improper initialization of the device after fill/refill. Failed to establish negative pressure. Result: Leaking out the airhole and gurgling or (ACK!) burned cotton wick.
4. Here's a good one: Fail to double-check coil for shorts. Result: Nearly exploded battery, burn spot on my hand and burned lip. (One of the blocks where you attach the coil had spun around a little bit because it was loose. Positive block touched negative block. Result: Burns!)

Bottom line: Take your time. Do it right. Get information from super-smart people right here.

Wow! That is one of the longer list of "Oh 'F's" I've seen. Just goes to show I guess that, simple or complex, nothing can be left to chance. Oh 'F' #4 - I'm glad you survived to tell the tail.

With all Kayfun type attys (or any RBA for that matter), it's a good idea to disassemble them as completely as you understand the design, then clean and reassemble them with "good" torque values - 'cause what they go out with is usually too much loose or tight. ;-)

Thanks for the cautionary tale/near comedy of errors, tdtyler. Your sharing of missteps may serve to save others from them - or not.

 

[tdtyler]

Wow! That is one of the longer list of "Oh 'F's" I've seen.

Thanks for the cautionary tale/near comedy of errors, tdtyler. Your sharing of missteps may serve to save others from them - or not.

"No one is totally useless: One can always serve as a bad example for others."

I aim to please! HAHAHAHA! Thanks again for the great info. The idea of dis-assembly, clean and re-assemble is spot on.

Tim

 

[tdtyler]

One more thing...

It is critical that none of the joints with o-rings gets too tight. Too tight and the o-ring doesn't function properly resulting in a leak or seepage around the joint. I had one so tight I couldn't get it apart. I was about to use a vise and channel lock pliers on it when I decided to throw the thing in the freezer. 10 minutes later and it popped apart.

Just another opportunity for you to learn from my mistakes!!!

Tim

 

[eda123]

- Chimney tube/top cap o-ring (X1): 1.6mm thick X 4.7mm ID
("The O-ring Store" is an excellent source of high quality o-rings and my first choice... when a choice is possible)
\

Flux-

Ive seen a lot of posts saying a #008 (4.47mm ID, 1.78mmthick=8mm total diameter). So yours will be 7.9mm, very close to the other posts but a bit smaller. Have you been able to test out these you point to above? I want to make sure i get the right size.