Russian 91% leaking issue!!

[rastapete69]

Thank you State O Flux for posting the link to the o ring sizes.

I ordered a half dozen of each size to store away in my parts box.

So far the only problem I have had with my R91 was right out of the box when the positive deck was loose and the firing pin was way too tight in the center post.

Some helpful ECF member posted a video on how to remedy the problem.

 

[eda123]

Rasta- did you order the exact size State-o-flux listed, and seen that they work well in the R91?

 

[rastapete69]

Rasta- did you order the exact size State-o-flux listed, and seen that they work well in the R91?

I clicked on the link and ordered. I'm hoping the size is right, although they were cheap enough if not.

I haven't examined closely, but the bag of extra parts probably had one or two of the o rings, but I like to have extra parts around for all my stuff.

 

[tdtyler]

Flux-

Ive seen a lot of posts saying a #008 (4.47mm ID, 1.78mmthick=8mm total diameter). So yours will be 7.9mm, very close to the other posts but a bit smaller. Have you been able to test out these you point to above? I want to make sure i get the right size.

I ordered and received the ones from Amazon and they're identical in appearance. Don't know if that helps you, but they work fine in mine.

TT

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=e04ed-20

Hope the link works. I have a couple of threads about R91 leaking confused. The link should take you to the Amazon chimney rings.

 

[tdtyler]

One more thing...

State O' Flux also told me to use a little silicone grease (Available at Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart, etc) on the joints of my R91. This idea has helped immensely with weeping around the joints. Not a huge issue, but annoying just the same.

I'm pretty convinced there is a "break-in" period for these rba's. My first one probably had junk in the channels where the o-rings are and some rough edges that needed to be worn off. Each time I open it up to dry burn/replace stuff the re-assembly gets easier and the nitnoid problems are solved.

Hope this helps someone...

TT

 

[rastapete69]

what joints are these you speak of?

Just the same, I am finding no weeping, except from my wife when she sees the credit card bill for another atomizer.

 

[State O' Flux]

what joints are these you speak of?

Just the same, I am finding no weeping, except from my wife when she sees the credit card bill for another atomizer.

I don't recall suggesting anything to tdtyler about a cure for weeping - nor do I understand how there can be weeping, unless he has damaged the o-rings/sealing sufaces. Be that as it may, if it serves that purpose for him, then all's well that ends well.

My comments to tdtyler were more along this line. After an initial and thorough cleaning, the application of silicone grease... food grade please, on the o-rings themselves & the threads - to prevent binding and accelerated degradation of the o-rings, as well as galling of SS seating surfaces, should one get over-zealous with tightening.

And that, rastapete... was my suggestion. As always, take it as it is, do with it as you wish - 'tis the interweb afterall. ;-)

 

[rastapete69]

Got it.
Besides being ignorant to what "weeping" is, I was very leary about putting silicone grease in the same area as nicotine juice that will be vaporized.
Anyway, the veterans of this site have helped myself in countless ways and can only guess that this was a case of tdt not understanding the advice.

 

[tdtyler]

I don't recall suggesting anything to tdtyler about a cure for weeping - nor do I understand how there can be weeping, unless he has damaged the o-rings/sealing sufaces. Be that as it may, if it serves that purpose for him, then all's well that ends well.

My comments to tdtyler were more along this line. After an initial and thorough cleaning, the application of silicone grease... food grade please, on the o-rings themselves & the threads - to prevent binding and accelerated degradation of the o-rings, as well as galling of SS seating surfaces, should one get over-zealous with tightening.

And that, rastapete... was my suggestion. As always, take it as it is, do with it as you wish - 'tis the interweb afterall. ;-)

Well, shoot...

Let me try to elaborate...

I tightened the bottom section of the R91 too tight. Defeated the o-ring by squishing it too much. Result: "weeping" which is really a slow leak. Replaced the o-ring with a spare after carefully cleaning all channels where o-rings go in the whole thing. Didn't tighten so much this go around and had some seeping on that bottom joint again. Took the thing apart, used a little silicone grease on the o-ring and threads; problem solved. No leak, weep, seep... Hence my mental transposition of a recommendation for one purpose to a kindly-meant idea to solve another problem that apparently only I have ever experienced.

Mileage varies for each person as you all know. Intentions were good. Hope you'll understand.

TT

(I very well might have scored the bottom joint a little by getting it too tight. That would qualify as user inflicted damage as SOF suggested. In my case, the grease overcomes the damage.)

 

[tdtyler]

www.esslinger.com has the correct gaskets for the main body of the R91.

 

[ArcherB]

"Pressure Differential".
If you have atomizing chamber flooding/drip tip gurgling/leaking out the vent hole conditions, you did the above incorrectly. To fix this, cover the vent hole and suck on the dt to improve the quality of vacuum in the tank. Take a test draw - if the condition still exists, repeat the sucking on dt with vent covered. The idea hear is to create a vacuum in the tank that you somehow were unable to create during the refilling process.

Bingo! This did it for me with one small change:
1) I turned the whole thing upside down and blew into the air hole to clear out any juice.
2) While still upside down, I covered the air hole and sucked on the drip tip, creating the vacuum.
3) With my finger still covering the air hole and my mouth sealing the drip-tip, I turned the unit right side up and released my finger, breaking the seal over the air hole.
4) Vape and enjoy

 

[jkhtx]

Let's see... I'm going to need replacement o-rings for sure. Next stop: Amazon for watch-repair o-rings, unless any of you have a solid source for a pre-assembled kit of o-rings for Russian 91% or Kayfun Lite Plus.

You can find a replacement set of o-rings for the Russian here and a Kayfun set here.

I would think they'd be interchangeable but who knows.

 

[classwife]

Moved to Rebuildable Atomizer Systems from APV Discussion

 

[CMD-Ky]

fatdaddy.com has parts and "O" rings in a rebuild kit around $8.50 for the screws, rings, tools and insulator.

 

[Twicehorn]

Bump. Not sure I have mastered the top fill, but I have gotten air hole leakage from bottom fill too.

It's a good sign if sucking and blowing on the drip tip and the body without top cap (and with airhole covered) yields no leakage isnt it? Visual inspection of the orings indicates that they are fine.

The user manual also says that leakage can occur from horizontal storage under certain conditions (as I understand it, where one feed channel is exposed and one is submerged.

 

[Twicehorn]

This thing is starting to piss me off.