Russian weeping/leaking? (Last whiny post i promise lol)

[Flush1]

Soo both of my russians are weeping from the seam between maim atomizer base and the collector cup. I have changed the O rings...still same problem. It takes about an hour or so for it to leak a good amount but its frustrating as it keeps getting on my fingers and pocket. Whats weird is BOTH do it. Both are authentic KEBO's. My EHPro 3.1 is solid. Im gonna assume this is from top filling and the pressure fluctuations? I notice the seam is moist immediately after first fill. Valve filling them does not work. The EHPro 3.1 is fine since i bottom hole fill it. :/ and in case it matters its 50/50 juice. 1.4ohm 28ga coil 8 wrap on a 5/64 bit. 3mm BioWick cotton (2 strands removed). And when I top fill, plug hole, unscrew...fill...cap back on til immer ring seals, flip...bubble and release finger.

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[Elizabeth Baldwin]

Yeah that's why they recommend you fill where it's designed to be filled. I always fill mine from the screw...never leaked in any of them. My husband always fills from top and gets leaks. We have several... All but 2 are authentic. Funny mine never leak, his leaks often. We can switch and same effect... Common denominator is filling method.

Solution is to fill from fill screw.

 

[Flush1]

Problem is full size russians dont have a fill screw. Only the fill ball valve...which works 0.01% of the time.

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[Elizabeth Baldwin]

Ah I see. I have Russian 91%s and kayfun Lites. That's a bummer then.

 

[tw33k]

I have 2 full size Russians and the fill ports work perfectly on both. I use these to fill them

 

[Asmo6]

All my fill ports work. I have two 3.1's with the ball valve ports.

Thinking your needle isn't passing through the valve and depressing it properly. Or your particular attys have bad valves.

I pulled the needles from hangsen bottles. Just shove them into whatever juice i'm using. Works 100% of the time.

 

[Flush1]

Ive used those tips and when i queeze the bottle nada. I HAVE tried to use the fill valve with water while cleaning a d it works then. Seems like the tank pressure doesnt let my needle do its job

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[horton]

I don't have an O-ring on the base / collector cup. Not sure if that is why mine do not leak. That is how it came to me from the local B&M store. It does look like there is a spot made to receive an O-ring though. I've always wondered about it.
In terms of filling, I struggled with using the fill port for a while until I found plastic disperser tips with a luer lock. I use the pink one from an assortment I got off eBay. The seller is CML out of KY. A great deal for 100 tips both metal and plastic that I use for all sorts of things. Maybe that will help to get in and depress properly.

 

[NamVet68]

If its leaking from the seam (as it appears to be doing), get some Teflon Tape at your local hardware store ( In the plumbing section) and take the tank apart, wrap the Teflon tape around the threads about two-three times (its very thin and will conform to the threads), and re-assemble. The O-rings don't always do a good job of sealing the threads - the tape should seal everything right up. Easy-peasy.

It's cheap, non-reactive to juices, heat-proof, and lasts through a couple of assembly/dis-assemblies. Its handy to have for a variety of issues with leaking attys. Good stuff.

 

[folkphys]

Looks like that seam isn't screwed all the way down. Maybe the o-ring has swelled?
On my R91, the top and bottom tank sections are slightly different. The one I have always used on the bottom has an ever-so-slight bevel around its edges, where the other section is perfectly flat/flush. I'm not sure if this particular orientation would matter in your case, and even whether your sections exhibit this subtle difference. However, with all the Kayfun-style atties I've owned, I do like to try every possible combination of tank ring positionings in order to achieve the prettiest fitment. OCD for sure, but perhaps in this case a few half millimeters here or there can actually make or break your atty's tank seal.

 

[Flush1]

Looks like that seam isn't screwed all the way down. Maybe the o-ring has swelled?
On my R91, the top and bottom tank sections are slightly different. The one I have always used on the bottom has an ever-so-slight bevel around its edges, where the other section is perfectly flat/flush. I'm not sure if this particular orientation would matter in your case, and even whether your sections exhibit this subtle difference. However, with all the Kayfun-style atties I've owned, I do like to try every possible combination of tank ring positionings in order to achieve the prettiest fitment. OCD for sure, but perhaps in this case a few half millimeters here or there can actually make or break your atty's tank seal.

Ive tried that with every wick change. Ive tried tightening just enough until i feel resistance to all the way down to the point where i need a rubber mat for grip to unscrew it lol. I think its from top filling and the extra pressure applied pusbing juice out of every possible crevice. Im waiting om the pink luer tips to arrive from CML, hopefully that lets me valve fill and ill be ok. Else ill try to sell both my russians and get kfl+ or russian 91 v2

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[Flush1]

The spacing inbetween the seams seems identical on the russians, om the EHPro 3.1 it looks tighter hmm.

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[horton]

Don't give up, Flush.... you will figure it out. Those tips from CML made a huge difference for me and I'm sure they will for you as well. Using that pink tip it is so easy to use the valve. It's like that tip is made for that particular task....lol. Do make sure to wash them before using. I think they mention it in the packaging, but even if they said "ready to use" I'd still give them a cleaning.

 

[HazMatt]

Ive tried that with every wick change. Ive tried tightening just enough until i feel resistance to all the way down to the point where i need a rubber mat for grip to unscrew it lol. I think its from top filling and the extra pressure applied pusbing juice out of every possible crevice. Im waiting om the pink luer tips to arrive from CML, hopefully that lets me valve fill and ill be ok. Else ill try to sell both my russians and get kfl+ or russian 91 v2

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Don't buy the Russian 91% V2 just yet. Some of us R91 V2 owners are having problems with the floating positive pin/airflow tube. We are getting ohm readings that erratically jump around. Also, even after tightening the center tube/pin down very tightly, the positive block twists out of place when tightening the positive lead screw onto the coil.

Kebo is supposed to be working on a solution for the problems. If they had tested these thoroughly, we consumers would not be having problems

 

[Flush1]

Don't buy the Russian 91% V2 just yet. Some of us R91 V2 owners are having problems with the floating positive pin/airflow tube. We are getting ohm readings that erratically jump around. Also, even after tightening the center tube/pin down very tightly, the positive block twists out of place when tightening the positive lead screw onto the coil.

Kebo is supposed to be working on a solution for the problems. If they had tested these thoroughly, we consumers would not be having problems

My full russian v1 has the block twisting issue too. No matter how tight i make the center air shaft or pin. Ive learned to just lube the pin screw with juice and carefully tighten my block screws lol. Ive had to replave thr insulator because i flattened it tightening it down, and it still rotated the block.

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[Asmo6]

Ive used those tips and when i queeze the bottle nada. I HAVE tried to use the fill valve with water while cleaning a d it works then. Seems like the tank pressure doesnt let my needle do its job

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OK. That's still information we can use though. If it works when the lids are off. We have a few possible reasons why.

Your juice is too thick to travel down that size needle with any readiness, especially when it's butted up against a ball valve. Easy to check. Put juice in needle. Squeeze. Juice comes out? Probably not the problem.

The chimney isn't allowing any air to escape from the tank out of the chimney during filling.
As I fill mine you can hear, tuk tuk tuk tuk tuk. Little pops of air coming from the mouth piece. If for some reason it is sealing and not allowing air to escape... I'm thinking that might be why it's not filling? Although even that seems unlikely that you would have that PERFECT of a seal.

Try backing off the chimney a few turns. IE: Don't tighten the whole way so it's a little looser when you install the top cap. (The top cap will still screw it down)

And again, check the deck where the fill port mates up with the fill hole through the deck. Look for any 'weirdness'.


I'd grab a juice you don't love and do a messy experiment. Take the deck with nothing attached, and try squeezing some juice into it from the fill port. Obviously over a sink. See if you can see the problem.

 

[Timactionfigures]

I have the same issue with my Russian, and I also top fill. I don't have the proper plastic tip to use the fill valve (sucks the metal one they include in the box does NOT work! )

Oh and be very careful with tightening that center pin into the cube shaped post! I broke mine and had to get a replacement...ugh $16 for a tiny little hollowed out screw! Oh well...live and learn...it's the best vape I've had and a little leakage and repairs are worth it.

 

[Flush1]

OK. That's still information we can use though. If it works when the lids are off. We have a few possible reasons why.

Your juice is too thick to travel down that size needle with any readiness, especially when it's butted up against a ball valve. Easy to check. Put juice in needle. Squeeze. Juice comes out? Probably not the problem.

The chimney isn't allowing any air to escape from the tank out of the chimney during filling.
As I fill mine you can hear, tuk tuk tuk tuk tuk. Little pops of air coming from the mouth piece. If for some reason it is sealing and not allowing air to escape... I'm thinking that might be why it's not filling? Although even that seems unlikely that you would have that PERFECT of a seal.

Try backing off the chimney a few turns. IE: Don't tighten the whole way so it's a little looser when you install the top cap. (The top cap will still screw it down)

When using the blunt tip needle, i do get some juice in, like 0.5ml acter 10min but i have to wiggle wiggle wiggle and occasional air bubbles pop back into the bottle. I make sure the juice channel is clear when installing wick and also that one of the juice channels is in the air bubble to allow air to escape. Im hoping the pink luer tips will be better. If not i MAY machine out a hair of the channels to allow more flow. My juice is pretty thin. I use 50/50 or 70pg/30vg. Even with usimg water suring cleaning, it is a small amount that goes through. I think its a combination of air pressure pushing back and not gettimg the ball valve where it needs to be

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[Flush1]

Pardon the typos, fat fingers on a phone

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[horton]

The only solution I have found for filling the Russian is the plastic tip from CML. Like I mentioned before, it's as if it was made solely for the purpose of filling the Russian. I find that pressure is critical when valve filling. Using a syringe is the best way to control the pressure.
The needle bottle you get with the Russian to me is a device to generate more revenue for Kebo from all the damaged valves due to the metal needle going right through them. With the metal needle, you can't tell when you have gone far enough to be depressing the spring to let fluid in.