SAFETY FIRST! Need advice on best (safest) choice of tank for mom who has had throat cancer

[letmein]

My mom has had throat cancer but is now cancer free. She used to be a heavy smoker, but I converted her to e-cigs. Now I'm trying to do my best to insure that her vaping is as safe as possible. To that end, I'm trying to figure out what tank will be the safest.

So far my choice has been on the protank, because the tank itself is made out of pyrex glass. I've currently got a Pro Tank and a Pro Tank 2.

My next step is replacing the stock wicks with cotton, because I believe that it's safer and it will also be chaper in the long run. That means that even though I don't vape, I have to learn how to recoil etc. and before I start that I want to make sure, that I am on the right track.

I'll number my questions so they are easier to answer:

1: Is there a better (safer) solution than the Pro Tank 2?
1.b: In terms of ease of use I want to make like 10 coils she can use, should I be looking at AeroTank over the pro tank 2 or stick with it?

2: what kind of wire is the safest and best to use?

3: How long does the rewicking last, and what are indicators that she needs to put in a new wick?

4: what is the best guide to rewicking with cotton?

 

[TheJohnG]

I can only answer to #3.
I have been rewicking the protank 2 with cotton and microcoil and have two good coils in rotation. I was getting about a week of good vapor from them, and then I changed to a new juice flavor. After the change I had to wash, dry burn, and put in new cotton each day. If your mother is handy and has good eyes it is a good setup, if she wants something that just works without a lot of tinkering I'm not too sure. My wife doesn't enjoy a setup like this. For her it is the carto tank.

Good luck with your project.

The JohnG

 

[State O' Flux]

Using John's last sentence - regarding his wife's preference, as my cue... you may want to consider a carto tank.

Cartomizers and carto tanks are easy to prepare, offer flavor surpassed only by an RBA/RDA, lasts from 4 days to a few weeks depending on juice and voltage, replacement cartos are a bit over a buck a pop, easy to refill the carto tank, durable and reliable.

Cartomizers do not have a conventional wick, where the wick runs through the center of a coil, but rather the juice is held in suspension around the outside of the coil in a "absorbent batting and coil sleeve" wick arrangement, from where it is vaporized. Yes, you can still burn the wicking sleeve (similar to ekowool), but only if you do not prepare the carto properly (wicking material well saturated) prior to use.

From Surevapes, Boge pre-punched or pre-slotted cartos are $28 for 25. Using 5 days as average, that's 125 days of vaping for only $28, plus the cost of a good carto tank - say $25 for a US made 22mm tank from IBTanked. No rebuilding, no mess, no muss no fuss. If refilling using normal methods is difficult, a tank with a fill hole, say a Youde AGR+ tank with a filler screw (including glass for both 35 and 45mm cartos), using a bottle with blunt needle tip, makes it even simpler.

 

[letmein]

Thanks for the response guys!

Cartos are out of the question simply because I can't be sure what's in the filler. So it's clearos because it's one less input in the equation, it's just the pyrex glass, the wick, thread and the juice.

Still looking for input.

 

[edyle]

My mom has had throat cancer but is now cancer free. She used to be a heavy smoker, but I converted her to e-cigs. Now I'm trying to do my best to insure that her vaping is as safe as possible. To that end, I'm trying to figure out what tank will be the safest.

So far my choice has been on the protank, because the tank itself is made out of pyrex glass. I've currently got a Pro Tank and a Pro Tank 2.

My next step is replacing the stock wicks with cotton, because I believe that it's safer and it will also be chaper in the long run. That means that even though I don't vape, I have to learn how to recoil etc. and before I start that I want to make sure, that I am on the right track.

I'll number my questions so they are easier to answer:

1: Is there a better (safer) solution than the Pro Tank 2?
1.b: In terms of ease of use I want to make like 10 coils she can use, should I be looking at AeroTank over the pro tank 2 or stick with it?

2: what kind of wire is the safest and best to use?

3: How long does the rewicking last, and what are indicators that she needs to put in a new wick?

4: what is the best guide to rewicking with cotton?

1: The other pyrex clearos that I know of are the Davides (Aspire Davide, and Anyvape Davide), and the Smoktech ARO.
With the protanks, the miniprotank2 screws onto the outer eGo threads on the standard 520/eGo battery, and has better airflow holes; whereas the larger size protanks use the inner 510 threads, and airflow there is more finiky.
2: the popular wire seems to be kanthal; other than that I've heard of nichrome, but I dont know the difference.
3: A head might last a week, but as a regular routine, I plan to pop in a fresh coil each day, and put the used one to soak, and dryburn and wick a week of coils on a Sunday.
4: look out for the cotton club on facebook.

I wouldn't toss out silica rope to fast; when you dryburn the coil you can see for yourself that the silica wick does not burn and even turns whiter as gunk on it burns off.

 

[edyle]

Thanks for the response guys!

Cartos are out of the question simply because I can't be sure what's in the filler. So it's clearos because it's one less input in the equation, it's just the pyrex glass, the wick, thread and the juice.

Still looking for input.

Consider 'cartos' still by looking at the Sophia. The Sophia looks like a carto, fits in a carto tank, uses coil and wick like a clearo, and is designed to be rebuildable in the first place; a unique feature of the Sophia is you can turn it (screw/unscrew) to adjust liquid flow so you can actually close the space when you are not using it leaving no chance for the coil to flood.

So if you actually plan to rebuild the likes of a protank type coil, you might as well look at something literally designed for rebuilding anyway. The protank heads have that grommet thing at the bottom that if it crumbles up eventually, you lose that head unless you can find a suitable replacement, and you don't want to put just any and every rubber/plastic material on that head.

That's another thing- the protank head does have that rubber/plastic grommet, so from the safety standpoint, the Sophia would be of interest; steel, and porcelain.

 

[caged]

Did Kanger change the Protank 2 heads to have the new insulator (resists burning) and the r/nr coils so the coil won't heat and burn the insulator directly? I know they did with the Protank 3 heads so that is something you should consider.

 

[letmein]

Thanks I'll look into that. What is the insulator on the new ones made of? Silicone?

 

[caged]

I'm not really sure but I think it's a higher grade of silicon that is more resistant to burning (one of the major complaints about the pro tank 2 heads).