Scottish/Swedish Roll-Wick-ed...cotton in an RDA...Puff count

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coffinnail

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Feb 18, 2017
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The pads thing, it's more about the cotton being organic and non-bleached (no chemical processing and as clean as possible).

I tried a few things of cotton that weren't marked as organic, or part of something else, and the difference was fairly huge.. they wicked fine but you could taste the chemicals, it was simply horrible.

Local stores tend to sell the small 5/10 pad packages as they can make a serious markup on those. I bought a pack of 200 (if I remember right) on fasttech last year. At the rate I use it, I should have enough for the next 20 years.

I know many think that you need to remove the "skin" and only use the middle cotton, but that's just a waste... doing the Scottish approach, you just pull the "skin" out to space the fibers, roll it and it works/wicks just great.
Gr8 point here Imfallen_Angel. No chemical processing and as clean as possible. So we don't have to boil it. I got the same thing from cotton balls, in my rda. Compared to the TFV4 tank pre-manufactured with organic cotton.
There's very small bits in it, but easily taken out, but even then, they aren't an issue if left in. It's probably been thoroughly cleaned as it's good to go as is, the "funny" taste is no worse than cotton and goes away after a few minutes/puffs.

The hard part with it is that you have to know how to handle it, work it, stretch it, align it, but aside tiny short bits, any decent piece/strands can be reworked into a mass can be used again, so there's very little waste.

The biggest difference is that it doesn't expand like cotton, so for some tanks/RTAs it needs to be taken in consideration accordingly to the liquid feed.
Sounds like I need to check this Hemp out. I like what you said about aligning the strands. Ive heard somewhere about cotton being the same way. Maybe? Why pads are better than other forms of cotton? Probably. Thx for the input. Gr8 information in your post.
 

coffinnail

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Feb 18, 2017
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I've had my small bag of CB v2 for at least a year and a half and used maybe a tenth of it, and that's using it more times that I can remember. So, at less than 10$ for a bag, it's not close to being a bad or expensive purchase.

I just find it funny and sad when I watch any building videos and the people always use and waste about 10 times than they need, it's just a terrible approach to show newbies that might think that you need to cut off 3 inches of wick on each side instead of pulling until you have the correct length and cut it there then use the same roll/piece for the other side.

In the last two years, I've probably "wasted" (by cutting the edges and making adjustments) about a single cotton ball's worth.
"cutting the edges" of the cotton, not 3 inches as you said. Like the way you think here. Me, the "matted" cotton is maybe a 1/4". Not 3 inches. And I use the "matted" cuts, to wipe my hardware, 510 connection, and mod with. Nothing wasted that way.
Like you. I have seen those videos and tutorials, wasting 3 inches of organic cotton. Not good for newbies like me. Im still in education mod (e).
 

Imfallen_Angel

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Gr8 point here Imfallen_Angel. No chemical processing and as clean as possible. So we don't have to boil it. I got the same thing from cotton balls, in my RDA. Compared to the TFV4 Tank pre-manufactured with organic cotton.

Sounds like I need to check this Hemp out. I like what you said about aligning the strands. Ive heard somewhere about cotton being the same way. Maybe? Why pads are better than other forms of cotton? Probably. Thx for the input. Gr8 information in your post.

Pads and Cotton Bacon have the cotton fibers aligned... there is such a thing as "with the grain". When you play with the pads, the "why you should cut your strip in same direction of the longer side". If you try to to go the other way, you'll see what I mean, the cotton will wick horribly. (and fall apart probably)

With the hemp, it's fairly bunched out, so I will pull it apart and work to get the fibers aligned , same as doing the Scottish roll approach, the goal is to have the fibers going straight, basically, you're trying to create a "drinking straw" effect where the liquid has the easiest path to follow (but not flood).

A while back, I've suggested to someone that just couldn't get his wick to "suck" enough liquid to wick well that he should try and poke through his cotton (once installed in the coil) with a long thin needle or coil wire in the middle to push the wick against the edge of the coil and create a tubular pocket/chimney in the middle where the liquid can be pulled into and I believe that he responded that it did the trick and his troubles were over.

I did take a bit of time practicing when I started using RTAs more and more, and I can't complain. Just got the Conqueror (Wofoto) not that long ago that I read and was told is a pain to wick right, and while my first build wasn't perfect but wasn't bad at all, but nailed it on the second time.

As time goes by, the more you practice, the more you get a feel for it, where once I had trouble judging the amount of cotton needed, I now look at my coil's size and pinch (or cut) the amount needed almost always on the dot.

One suggestion is that you just don't cut your wick until you're able to have the right amount, pass it through your coil all the way through first to ensure you don't have too much or too little along your roll, always spinning it with your fingers as you pull it through. Then when you've ensured that it's even across, then pass it in, cut, do the other coil (if doing a dual), untwist it to snug it inside the coil, snip the excess, position it and you're set. This is quite important with the hemp stuff or if you're reclaiming bits of cotton that you're reworked into a long wick.
 
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vapdivrr

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The Strange Wick is beige, very light, someone told me that he thought that it looks like couch/cushion stuffing a bit.. :D
Yep, same stuff but now instead of processing it yourself, it's already done. If it weren't for the cleaning process, I would of perhaps continued to use it, as I really liked the flavor . Also when you mentioned about bringing the wick "all the way through" to even it out, some thread in the wick in 2 parts, so instead of 1 regular wick, you divide it in half (lenght wise) then thread each from opposite ends of coil. I guess this way you don't get the one side depressed, while the other is more fluffy. I use to try it, and although it worked really good, it just took a little to long

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coffinnail

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Feb 18, 2017
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CA,United States
cotton fibers aligned... there is such a thing as "with the grain".
well said here...keeping the cotton fibers aligned...Ive had some luck pulling or stretching the cotton length wise to straighten the fibers. Then thin it back out width wise, and so on

"drinking straw"
great analogy...wicking makes more sense when someone like yourself explains in a layman terms

with a long thin needle or coil wire in the middle to push the wick against the edge of the coil and create a tubular pocket/chimney in the middle where the liquid can be pulled into
...never heard this one...but Im a man of common sense...and this makes sense thx

I did take a bit of time practicing when I started using RTAs
RTAs...heard a lot about flooding these rebuildable type tanks...been told to stick with KGD cotton, silica, or the like, cotton bacon is way too soft and wicks too much ETA then we get flooding...and then we also get dry hits when RTAs are not wicked properly..good advice, practice makes perfect.

pass it through your coil all the way through first to ensure you don't have too much or too little along your roll, always spinning it with your fingers as you pull it through. Then when you've ensured that it's even across, then pass it in, cut, do the other coil (if doing a dual), untwist it to snug it inside the coil
really like the "untwisting" the wick to snug it up...everything you said in your post, makes sense, Ive never heard of most of it, thanks againg Imfallen Angel
 
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