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mv2envy

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If the coil is continuing to glow red while firing it up then you probably are not getting any wicking up to the coil. It could be that the wick is kinked. Also if you have a multimeter take the voltage as it pass between the posts. If there is a voltage drop it could be that you need to carbon up the coiled area of the wick a bit more. Also make sure the coils are not touching against each other.

One other thing that I have noted is if the viscosity of your juice is thick it will reduce the wicking. In one of my juices I thinned it by an additional 5% and it made quite a difference.

Im using bobas bounty, its all VG so its pretty thick. There is no kink in the SS wick, its nice and round. The coil looks perfect, not touching eachother or shorting out on the wick. I even tried dripping 5 drops of juice right on the coil/wick and taking a puff, but its the same thing. Really strong throat hit, ok flavor, but almost no vapor.
 

TUS172

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Im using bobas bounty, its all VG so its pretty thick. There is no kink in the SS wick, its nice and round. The coil looks perfect, not touching eachother or shorting out on the wick. I even tried dripping 5 drops of juice right on the coil/wick and taking a puff, but its the same thing. Really strong throat hit, ok flavor, but almost no vapor.

What gauge is your resistance wire? Are you using Kanthal or Ni-chrome? Any other have an idea of what may be going on? If you have a spare empty bottle you could try thinning a small amount of your juice and try that.

On my first coil I had a similar thing happen and even though my wick seemed carboned up well enough the suggestion was to flame it a few more times with my juice and it solved the problem.
 

mv2envy

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32awg Kanthal. Is it supposed to be so airy? My mod has a sealed connector on it, but it still seems like the CE2 connector is letting in too much air when I take a puff. Throat hit is out of this world, I nearly chucked up a lung on the first hit, and flavor seems very strong but not bad. But vapor production is pretty much ..... I have some silica wick on the way, Im going to give it a try in this tank.

Anyone els have any ideas?
 

TUS172

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32awg Kanthal. Is it supposed to be so airy? My mod has a sealed connector on it, but it still seems like the CE2 connector is letting in too much air when I take a puff. Throat hit is out of this world, I nearly chucked up a lung on the first hit, and flavor seems very strong but not bad. But vapor production is pretty much ..... I have some silica wick on the way, Im going to give it a try in this tank.

Anyone els have any ideas?

That is my set-up... I vape at 6v... I don't know what else it could be. If the wick is wet at the coil and it is firing... Vapor production (especially at 100% VG) should be producing volumes of vape.

As far as the air flow being too airy... DId the CE2 fit snuggly into the base of the V3? If it is loose that would definitely add to air flow.
 

Dalton63841

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From what I gather 100% VG doesn't wick as well with 400 Mesh as it does with 325 Mesh. When it's firing, is the coil glowing? If the coil is glowing then it either isn't wicking properly, or it is shorting. The coil shouldn't glow once the joose has wicked its way up to the coil. The wick can even short out if it is touching the SS in the center of the tank section.
 

mv2envy

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Its not glowing while its firing. When I said it was glowing, i was talking about firing it when the coil was dry to test and see if the coil was shorting out on the wick or not. But now that its wet, its not glowing. I can see the juice sizzle, and it produces vapor, but not a whole lot of it.

The CE2 connector is press fitted into the V3, its very tight. And the only air that flows is through the center hole of the connector. i tried blocking the center hole and no air was going through, so there are no air leaks.

How can I tell if the mesh I have is 400 or 325?
 

mj64

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The #325 has a diagonal pattern to it when you look at it on account of it being twill weave as opposed to standard weave in the #400.

Dan, I will miss the 15mm, but it sounds like I'm in the minority. Perhaps a second run with the more slender build?

+1 here, I like the slender build as well.
 

harmonic

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+1 for the skinny too in fact i thought the original would have been a hair smaller to better match the ego batteries. but it would be interesting to see if the same device performs differently at different diameters. some have said the taste is not the same as other genisis attys and i wonder if that is directly related to the wick diameter. i dont have any other genisis yet (besides sg3 and this) and unless i am mistaken (again lol) isnt this a thinner wick than in say a hybrid or other raidy inspired designs?
so a bigger body would let you be able to make a fatter wick...
 

bstedh

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Need some help. When I first put in the CE2 connector it was a pretty tight fit. Now it is loose and wants to spin when I try to connect to PV. Any suggestions on how to make the connector a tight fit now that it is already wired and finished?

Thanks for the help.

Steve

The only trick I have heard of for a loose connector is to tin the press in area with solder to make it tighter. This means you will probably have to disconnect your positive wire to get it back out to work on.
 

bstedh

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How can I tell if the mesh I have is 400 or 325?
Did you get two different meshes with your order? It was random who got what extra mesh but everyone should have gotten at least one sheet of 400. The 400 is very easy to tell the difference on compared to the larger mesh. If they seem almost the same you may have gotten 2 sheets of 400. If you are using the 400 with strait VG it may not be wicking fast enough.

Also I went with air holes on the side with a tube to direct the air directly on the coil. This worked better than the air coming up the center. I closed off my center tube and use the side air holes.
 

Vtwin

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Thanks bstedh - took your suggestion and tined the outside of the CE2 connector and now it is tight again.

Appreciate the help!

Steve

The only trick I have heard of for a loose connector is to tin the press in area with solder to make it tighter. This means you will probably have to disconnect your positive wire to get it back out to work on.
 

Scubabatdan

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Hey everyone,
Well I got the design ported over to 3/4OD and I think this will be a very versital mod. I solved the center post issue, and it is a solid fix. There is a total of 10 pieces that will have to be turned. This will have the super tank and cover, normal tank and cover, and a T-Tank top. All threads will be set for 48tpi. So the threading will be very smooth like the G-tank. Will have to wait on finishing it, as when I was leaving post today I suffered symptoms of a heart attack and am currently sitting in a bed in the ER as we speak, using my iPad to type this.
Everything looks good so far will post later.
Dan
 
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