Scubagen Mods

[Dan Patrick]

I left my Scuba gen v3 on my provari standing up and it leaked about a mil of juice somehow. No leaks in the tank, so this somehow got in the center tube. Also I haven't really got a good hit off it. Flavor is there, I have ran 1 tank through it and it is seasoned well, just wondering if there is something I am not doing. Some vapor, coil is at 2.3, but after about 3 hits I get a dry one. Have it at about 3.6-3.7. Do you have to take the top off and dry it all out after every vape session? Any suggestions would be awesome.

 

[Led Hendriani]

Anyone going to do a coop on mesh to help cut down on the shipping costs from UK?

 

[casualuser]

I'd love one of these for my Grand. When will they be available?

 

[Dan Patrick]

BFG looks pretty nice. Found a video, I guess that is the next Co-op...one day?

 

[mlinky]

LOL I was wondering when and where the Bottom feed mod users would chime in wanting a gen style atty for their toys...Dans the man...and he has the hardware (and apparently the squirrel genes) to do the job guys...

Good luck Dan.....and plz try to get some sleep will ya guy...I can attest to the perils of not getting enough...its BAAAD for ya...see avi if ya don't believe me...

Hi, my friend!! I knew you would make a splash on the modder's forum.

 

[Krythis]

I left my Scuba gen v3 on my provari standing up and it leaked about a mil of juice somehow. No leaks in the tank, so this somehow got in the center tube. Also I haven't really got a good hit off it. Flavor is there, I have ran 1 tank through it and it is seasoned well, just wondering if there is something I am not doing. Some vapor, coil is at 2.3, but after about 3 hits I get a dry one. Have it at about 3.6-3.7. Do you have to take the top off and dry it all out after every vape session? Any suggestions would be awesome.

I have my center tube blocked with some synthetic wine cork, but i still get some leakage. For me this is from vapor condensing and leaking around the cork/wire. Next coil rebuild I plan on putting a better sealant in there, have read some used silicone.

As for your wicking question...Is there a kink in your wick? What size mesh are you using? What is the PG/VG ratio of your juice?

 

[bstedh]

Dan,

What would the possibility and cost be to get extra bottom assemblies?

I.e. a full setup for the Tank adapter 3ml setup and 5ml setup.

This would mean 3 complete working units per order.

Or to add the extra bottom assemblies as an extra item.

 

[bstedh]

My latest attempt to seal the center is by using the soft cap from a carto and cutting it down to size to be a tight squeeze into the center hole with the positive wire coming up through it's air hole. I have had good luck with the one I did like this so far.

I have had good luck thinning my juice with a couple of drops of PGA to improve wicking. Too small or Too large of a wick have been issues. I have 2 wicks right now that are in that just right range and working good. One is #325 and one #400. I personally have not detected much difference between the two when they are working correctly.

I have my center tube blocked with some synthetic wine cork, but i still get some leakage. For me this is from vapor condensing and leaking around the cork/wire. Next coil rebuild I plan on putting a better sealant in there, have read some used silicone.

As for your wicking question...Is there a kink in your wick? What size mesh are you using? What is the PG/VG ratio of your juice?

 

[MadmanMacguyver]

with my scubagen I used 2 xl clearo tubes and soldered them together to make a long air shaft...end result the tube is above the top of the body by a mil or so... I crushed the end of the tube into a flat port...it achieves 2 purposes... 1) it stops leakage back out the bottom of the connector 2) it directs the airflow straight at the coil/wick

Try that bstedh it eliminates having to mess with sealant...

 

[bstedh]

I like this idea as I am starting to see some small cracks around my side air ports.

with my scubagen I used 2 xl clearo tubes and soldered them together to make a long air shaft...end result the tube is above the top of the body by a mil or so... I crushed the end of the tube into a flat port...it achieves 2 purposes... 1) it stops leakage back out the bottom of the connector 2) it directs the airflow straight at the coil/wick

Try that bstedh it eliminates having to mess with sealant...

 

[MadmanMacguyver]

Thanx...one of the great things about having so many minds collaborating on the same project is at least one person will have a solution to a given problem...put it all together and ya get perfection eventually...

 

[Robert T]

with my scubagen I used 2 xl clearo tubes and soldered them together to make a long air shaft...end result the tube is above the top of the body by a mil or so... I crushed the end of the tube into a flat port...it achieves 2 purposes... 1) it stops leakage back out the bottom of the connector 2) it directs the airflow straight at the coil/wick

Try that bstedh it eliminates having to mess with sealant...

That sounds like it would work, but wouldn't the center tube of the SGv3 fill up with liquid? I guess it wouldn't matter since the seal on the connector should stop it from leaking. Unless it didn't fit tight. Good idea. I've tried the food grade silicone but if still gets in there somehow, was thinking of trying JB Weld.

Robert

 

[bstedh]

Instead of trying to solder the positive wire into the tube with the nail I have just been putting together the post and soldering it all together and then using one of PK's spacer in the body and press fitting it in with the wire. Also I put a small piece of the wire insulation in the bottom to keep it from shorting against the bottom of the hole.

This also allows the SGV3 to be taken apart without messing up the positive post for modifications.

 

[MadmanMacguyver]

have a link to where to get those spacers or what they are so I can source them locally...

 

[Dan Patrick]

I have my center tube blocked with some synthetic wine cork, but i still get some leakage. For me this is from vapor condensing and leaking around the cork/wire. Next coil rebuild I plan on putting a better sealant in there, have read some used silicone.

As for your wicking question...Is there a kink in your wick? What size mesh are you using? What is the PG/VG ratio of your juice?

There are no kinks in my mesh as far as I know (I will check for that). Using the 400 or fine mesh that Zap makes all of the wicks from. I use 30vg 70pg. Leaked juice was pink spot, and they have a proprietary mix...but i think is around 30/70.

Thanks for your help!

 

[bstedh]

have a link to where to get those spacers or what they are so I can source them locally...

Jimho and or pk had a parts list either farther back in this thread or in mine and fender co-op thread.
It is the same one a lot of people are using to insulate the wick.

Sent from my NOOK Color running Android

 

[Scubabatdan]

G-Tank-US Co-op is now officially open

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ainless-steel-rebuildable-atomizer-co-op.html

Dan

 

[MadmanMacguyver]

uggh...and no funds...tell me you will do a second one dan....plz...will mod for vape juice...lol

 

[TUS172]

Well Dan this is where the "Rubber meets the road"... Its something... that the COOP notice began on page 300... LOL. I know the purchased units will go higher than that. And oooh post 3000... How ironic...

 

[Krythis]

Instead of trying to solder the positive wire into the tube with the nail I have just been putting together the post and soldering it all together and then using one of PK's spacer in the body and press fitting it in with the wire. Also I put a small piece of the wire insulation in the bottom to keep it from shorting against the bottom of the hole.

This also allows the SGV3 to be taken apart without messing up the positive post for modifications.

View attachment 58908

They're from McMaster-Carr, the link is a couple pages from the end of the bstedh co-op thread. There's two sizes, you'll want the longer ones for the connector or wick ports.

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