Scubagen Mods

[Mudflap]

Hi, New REOnaut here. I'm hunting the forums for a rumored rebuildable atomizer that will work with my Reo Grand. I followed some links through the labyrinth that this forum is for someone new, and found myself here. I hear there's some scubagen mod in the works for this purpose, and while I suspect I might be in the wrong thread I am just leaving a note here asking for direction. Are these rebuildable atomizers ready? Are they still being developed? do they have a name?

I'll continue the search on my own, but I'll be following this thread in the hopes someone can point me in the right direction. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Scubabatdan has designed and built a rebuilable atomizer compatible with bottom feeders and he will hopefully, in the future, organize and manage a co-op for interested parties to obtain them. Currently, he is trying to complete a co-op for a top feed genesis tank atomizer. That co-op has hit several snags due to repeated machine shop error. We all feel bad for Dan for having to put up with it all on our behalf.

 

[groundedcontrol]

Scubabatdan has designed and built a rebuilable atomizer compatible with bottom feeders and he will hopefully, in the future, organize and manage a co-op for interested parties to obtain them. Currently, he is trying to complete a co-op for a top feed genesis tank atomizer. That co-op has hit several snags due to repeated machine shop error. We all feel bad for Dan for having to put up with it all on our behalf.

Thanks for the info, Mudflap. It sounds like this scubabatdan is a pretty cool cat, doing all this work for the community, and putting up with all the hassle that independent engineering and manufacturing usually entails. I'll have to keep my eyes open for the eventual announcement of the Co-op. Is this the appropriate thread to watch for more information?

Also, I should navigate back to the newbie threads and ask what a co-op is. I don't like to feel as though I am a nuisance, but goodness is it hard to find your way around these forums. So much clutter, and hardly a useful thread with fewer than a hundred bits of inanity for every piece of useful information. I am clearly not used to working on forums.

Well, again, thanks!

 

[Scubabatdan]

Thanks for the info, Mudflap. It sounds like this scubabatdan is a pretty cool cat, doing all this work for the community, and putting up with all the hassle that independent engineering and manufacturing usually entails. I'll have to keep my eyes open for the eventual announcement of the Co-op. Is this the appropriate thread to watch for more information?

Also, I should navigate back to the newbie threads and ask what a co-op is. I don't like to feel as though I am a nuisance, but goodness is it hard to find your way around these forums. So much clutter, and hardly a useful thread with fewer than a hundred bits of inanity for every piece of useful information. I am clearly not used to working on forums.

Well, again, thanks!

Co-op stand for Cooperative Order:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/coops/
Dan

 

[subver]

Hey guys. I got my sgv3 in the mail today, yay!
It came with a wick and kanthal already assembled - it's 400 mesh, the coil is readin 2ohms.
Anyway, I'm using Bobas Bounty, and I thinned it out a good deal but I'm still geting dry metal hits.
It wicks a little better if I hold it upside down or let it sit on it's side a while between vapes.

Is there anything else I can do so it wicks better? What about doing a vertical wick? Should I try thinning it out more?
I have some 325 mesh coming next week, hopefully that will help.

When I do get a nice vape, it tastes really good. The vape isn't as hot as I imagined, with the coils so close to the mouthpiece.. but upping the volts only gets me dry metal hits faster. Been using about 4.7v for 11w, and I'm used to about 10w on a carto (3ohm) and it doesn't seem as hot as the carto.

I'm determined to make this work perfectly, though, so any tips would be great.

I'm still trying to read through all these threads to find more info.. wish I had some 325 mesh on hand to try, but hopefully there's something I can do in the meantime.

Thanks guys!

 

[TheSneakerHoarder]

I'm_having_some_issues...

Hot_vapor--really_hot.
Great_taste,_but_MINIMAL_vapor.

400_mesh
3_full_coil_wraps
On_a_3.7_BB

Any_suggestions?

 

[Robert T]

need_more_coil_wraps.ohms_too_low

 

[craftmath]

New to the scgv3 here as well! I have 6 wraps using 32g kanthal on a provari reading between 2 and 2.5 ohms (it seems to fluctuate... why... idk) on 325x325 mesh. I tested the coil and I get an even glow through all six wraps. I'm trying Boba's Bounty as well, but haven't thinned it out at all. Flavor is OK at 4.5 volts, but I've read that it takes time for the wick to "season". I took the top tube off to have a look and I turned the pv sideways to let some juice "in". Maybe it was stupid of me to turn it sideways to let juice into the wick, but I got a lil flame up on the wick at the coils when I engaged the provari. Yes there was a small flame, like dan's video where he puts pg on the wick during the oxidizing process, but I got this flame up with the scubagenv3 attached to the provari! I've seen videos of others showing the vaporizing without the top tube on, but never seen a video with a small flame flaring up. I know that vg or pg will ignite, but have any of you experienced this with the wick in and engaging the pv? So a few questions arise....
1. Do any of you see a variance in ohms like what I mentioned? If this is problematic, any recommendations?
2. Was the flame up from too much liquid around the coils?
3. Any tips?

Thanks... like subver, I'm just trying to get this right. Thanks everyone and happy easter!

 

[imsoenthused]

Variance means the wick isn't oxidized enough. Flame only happens if the wick is improperly prepared. A Genisis working properly shouldn't get hot enough to glow, much less ignite. None, zero of my prototypes have EVER ignited the e-liquid.

 

[asdaq]

New to the scgv3 here as well! I have 6 wraps using 32g kanthal on a provari reading between 2 and 2.5 ohms (it seems to fluctuate... why... idk) on 325x325 mesh. I tested the coil and I get an even glow through all six wraps. I'm trying Boba's Bounty as well, but haven't thinned it out at all. Flavor is OK at 4.5 volts, but I've read that it takes time for the wick to "season". I took the top tube off to have a look and I turned the pv sideways to let some juice "in". Maybe it was stupid of me to turn it sideways to let juice into the wick, but I got a lil flame up on the wick at the coils when I engaged the provari. Yes there was a small flame, like dan's video where he puts pg on the wick during the oxidizing process, but I got this flame up with the scubagenv3 attached to the provari! I've seen videos of others showing the vaporizing without the top tube on, but never seen a video with a small flame flaring up. I know that vg or pg will ignite, but have any of you experienced this with the wick in and engaging the pv? So a few questions arise....
1. Do any of you see a variance in ohms like what I mentioned? If this is problematic, any recommendations?
2. Was the flame up from too much liquid around the coils?
3. Any tips?

Thanks... like subver, I'm just trying to get this right. Thanks everyone and happy easter!

Congrats on getting the rare breed of Firegen.

The fluctuating ohms sounds like a partial short, and likely the resulting spark is igniting heated juice in that location. Gently nudging the coil with a toothpick should make it stop and then further use should oxidize it more or season the wick. More liquid has a cooling effect, and even a slight insulation effect.

 

[UA72Riddle]

Wicking with bobas, 325 will work much better for you. Thinning it out will just decrease the flavor.

Very little th is not enough airflow across the coil.... was a big problem with those. Two small, about 1mm, holes 180 degrees from each other in the cap at the height of the coil will increase vapor and cool the vape slightly.



Kick Bass Vapor.....let them LURE you in...
www.kickbassvapor.com

 

[craftmath]

Thanks for the feedback. I will oxidize the wick further.

 

[subver]

Thanks for the tip about the holes. And a big thanks to Youssefa for helping me out Friday night

So, we determined I had a short. Cool, no biggie. I rewired it and the whole coil started to glow. But about this: The whole coil would glow, but the ends would glow first, and the middle would start glowing a few seconds later. It didn't seem like it was a super even glow - should this be a very smooth, even glow?

After this, I still wasn't getting very good vapor.. so I think I'm going to try and drill the 2 1mm holes in the top of the polycarb, at the height of the coil. Maybe I'll try one hole first. But a question regarding this: if I do drill the hole(s) can I plug the center tube completely? I would really prefer to do this, especially because when I let the scubagenv3 sit upright overnight I noticed there was juice leaking out of the battery connection. I'm not sure if this was just residual juice or if it was actually wicking and dripping down the center tube, but I would rather just plug this up completely.

And another thing.. I'm a bit hesitant to use this on my Provari because of horror stories with shorts. Youssefa said to at least test it on a cheaper battery, so I've been testing it on my ego. Does anyone know details about the Provari regarding shorts? Worst case scenario, can I kill my Provari? Or would it just kill the battery? Or does it have protection?

I should have some 325 mesh soon, so I'm gonna try to use that with non diluted Bobas Bounty. I need to find a 1mm drill bit to put a hole or two in the poly-tube.

One more quick question - are there any soft-tip syringes that will fit in the hole on the scubagen to fill it? I would like to stay away from actual needle-tip syringes if possible..

So to recap:

-Should the coil glow evenly?
-If I drill 1-2 holes in the top poly-tube, can I plug the main center hole?
-Safe to use on my Provari? What if it shorts? Can it damage the Provari, Battery?
-Are there soft-tipped (plastic hopefully) syringes that will fit in the small fill hole on the scubagen?

Sorry for the lengthy post.
Thanks!

 

[lexi60]

The whole coil should glow almost instantly when dry.
You can plug the hole with anything that fits. I sealed mine with food grade silicon.
The ProVari has built in protection. You won't short it out. It'll give a E1 and shut off. No worry there. You will fry a Ego battery though.

 

[subver]

Awesome, I was hoping I could seal the center hole. Hopefully those 1-2 small holes will make a big difference in vapor production. And yeah, I'll have to try again with the coil.. I felt like something was wrong, it wasn't really that even and took a bit to fully glow.. plus I need to recoil it anyway because it was only 1.9-2ohm, I think I'm gonna shoot for 3ohm next time
So I can test it on a provari no problem? That makes me feel better, thanks

 

[subver]

Oh also.. what gauge is the filling hole on the scubagenv3?

edit: sorry, should've searched harder. Looks like it's about 1.5mm, so 17gauge tip should work, yeah?

Oh and also, I'm looking at squeeze bottles with luer caps to use in lieu of syringes.
Anyone think I would have any problems using something like this:

with an 18 gauge blunt needle on top?

The only thing I'm wondering about is if I don't fill te tank in one "squeeze", will it affect the wicking when it sucks air back in? Probably not a huge deal though, right?

 

[Youssefa]

you can use henna bottles , or small oiler bottles available at auto parts and hardware stores

when you put a fresh wick on you have to soak the top of the wick and fire it, repeating a few times , to sort of prime the wicking process
spoken from Inspire 4g

 

[bstedh]

the issue with the ends of the coil glowing first in my experience is that they are hanging in the air so nothing to absorb the initial heat. this can also create a burnt taste. My solution was to bend the terminals in toward the wick to reduce the amount of coil hanging free in the air. Also it could be that there is a little too much tightness on the first wrap from pulling the wire to the terminal. Try to put a tiny amount of slack in the coil wire where it goes to the terminal to keep it from pulling to tight onto the wick at the first and last wrap.

My Provari gets here in the mail this afternoon. Cant wait. This will be my first quality manufactured mod. It will probably be a backup to my okr mod but just couldn't pass up on buying one. I still seem to prefer the box mod form factor as it sits in my shirt pocket better. However I will never get rid of my No-Ego or my Okr's.

If you prefer something with a larger tip for filling feel free to drill the fill hole out bigger.... Just find something to plug it with. I use the end seals from cartos.

 

[subver]

Awesome, thanks guys! I still will have to wait another day to use it, unfortunately. I won't have a chance to get to the hardware store until tomorrow, I'll need a 1/32" drill bit for the poly-tube, plus my 325 mesh will be here tomorrow I'm guessing. It will also give me a chance to REALLY clean the scubagen, because when I got it there was still a small amount of juice in it, all over everything with some stained spots under the terminals.. but that should hopefully come clean with some rubbing alcohol or soaking in water.

 

[subver]

Oh, BTW - I'm really liking the look of these henna bottles:

and it comes with 14-20 gauge tips - I just don't know what kind of plastic the bottles are made out of.

It says "For use with any non corrosive paste, liquid or gel." - do you think this would be safe for e-liquid? Those little 1/2oz bottles would probably be perfect!

 

[Teach]

The henna type of bottle should work. I use the Luer Lock Caps and bottles with a hypo tube. They're available at a lot of places: My Freedom Smokes; One Stop DIY; and MadVapes are a few.