Scubagen Mods

[UnFettered_Soul]

Not to do with anything, and probably WAY off topic....

I just wanted to publicly say

DAN IS AWESOME!

Back to your regularly scheduled program.

 

[rusalka]

To let those that are int it. The metal is ordered for the Scuba 300 and the order placed before ours is half way done.
Yay!!! Soon we will be

 

[violetvoo]

Since I can't access the 300 thread....how do I get on the
list?...

 

[rusalka]

Since I can't access the 300 thread....how do I get on the
list?...

I have you down for one unit, violetvoo.

 

[violetvoo]

I have you down for one unit, violetvoo.

thank you...I really appreciate it...

 

[rusalka]

thank you...I really appreciate it...

Your are welcome.

 

[6spdsurfer]

Wow this thing is gorgeous! Is the list still open?!

 

[rusalka]

Wow this thing is gorgeous! Is the list still open?!

consider yourself added to the Spartan co-op.

 

[ZoeBoy]

Man, I love it when a plan comes together

 

[harmonic]

I FOUND WIRE!!!!!!!!! who wants some!

5lb Minimum order, but comparably priced to the EBAY vendor that we were all buying from.

I want lol

 

[rusalka]

For those of you in the know. Have a peak at the Scuba 300 units.

 

[Katdarling]

A warm thank you to you, Rusalka, and to you, Dan, for taking such good care of us, and enlivening our vaping pleasure.

 

[jordypants]

Question:

My tank is stuck on my newly purchased, used SGV3. The person who owned it before me used the black O-rings on the tank portion of the mod and now the polycarbonate tank is stuck and I can't get it off for cleaning and so on. Anyone have any advice on how to get the tank off without damaging the nails with the springs and nuts?

 

[theECB]

I don't have any good advice, only sympathy. I only have the black o-rings as well and my tank is really really really hard to get off. In fact I ended up breaking the last tank to get it off. Luckily I had lots of extra tube. But I had a hard time cutting this last piece. The tube cutter kept "walking" on me and instead of a cut I was getting a lovely spiral design up the tube. Wasted a good amount of tube on that round.

Just rebuilt it tonight and it's kicking hard!

As you can see I run a single wick. I bought a plain 510 connector from MadVapes and soldered a regular copper wire through the center.

Then I placed crimped a syringe needle tube onto the copper wire, use some tape to isolate the wire and tube and run it up through the top of the center tube.

Grabbed a 510 carto plug and trimmed it down so I could slide the syringe tube through it and squeezed that down into the center tube to seal it all up and keep out the juice.

Then I just take a long piece of wire (currently copper...yes yes I know it's bad) kink it a bit, and slide that into the center syringe tube.

What I really like about this setup is that it allows for total adjustment I can bend that wire to just the right spot and totally eliminate long leads coming off the coil!

Negative is a small screw with two nuts "threaded" down into a pin I jammed in the ground hole.

It works great. I rolled a new coil, oxidized the whole wick, used the cigarette paper method, wrapped my kanthal and boom!!! Awesome vapor!

This thing still rocks and I can't wait for the mini and the spartan hybrid!

Thanks Dan and Rusalka for the continued development of this awesome design!



I use a stainless steel hypodermic tube up the center. I crimp a piece of wire and place it in there

 

[jordypants]

I guess I'm going to have to break mine off of there (the tube, that is). How hard is it to replace the nails and springs? Mine are in pretty subpar shape, well the positive is at least and I believe it would do me justice to solder a thicker wire in place for the positive terminal. Any thoughts on that? Can i just jerk the nails out of there and tap them back in once I've got the springs and washers resoldered?

 

[Karla Lyle]

Question:

My tank is stuck on my newly purchased, used SGV3. The person who owned it before me used the black O-rings on the tank portion of the mod and now the polycarbonate tank is stuck and I can't get it off for cleaning and so on. Anyone have any advice on how to get the tank off without damaging the nails with the springs and nuts?

I have the same issue. I just use a syringe and squirt a little water in shake it up and drain. That seems to do the job.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Question:

My tank is stuck on my newly purchased, used SGV3. The person who owned it before me used the black O-rings on the tank portion of the mod and now the polycarbonate tank is stuck and I can't get it off for cleaning and so on. Anyone have any advice on how to get the tank off without damaging the nails with the springs and nuts?

On ones that are stuck, I use a deep well sock and invert it and pull the poly tube down until it is free. This does not damage the nails if you are careful.

I don't have any good advice, only sympathy. I only have the black o-rings as well and my tank is really really really hard to get off. In fact I ended up breaking the last tank to get it off. Luckily I had lots of extra tube. But I had a hard time cutting this last piece. The tube cutter kept "walking" on me and instead of a cut I was getting a lovely spiral design up the tube. Wasted a good amount of tube on that round.

Just rebuilt it tonight and it's kicking hard!

As you can see I run a single wick. I bought a plain 510 connector from MadVapes and soldered a regular copper wire through the center.

Then I placed crimped a syringe needle tube onto the copper wire, use some tape to isolate the wire and tube and run it up through the top of the center tube.

Grabbed a 510 carto plug and trimmed it down so I could slide the syringe tube through it and squeezed that down into the center tube to seal it all up and keep out the juice.

Then I just take a long piece of wire (currently copper...yes yes I know it's bad) kink it a bit, and slide that into the center syringe tube.

What I really like about this setup is that it allows for total adjustment I can bend that wire to just the right spot and totally eliminate long leads coming off the coil!

Negative is a small screw with two nuts "threaded" down into a pin I jammed in the ground hole.

It works great. I rolled a new coil, oxidized the whole wick, used the cigarette paper method, wrapped my kanthal and boom!!! Awesome vapor!

This thing still rocks and I can't wait for the mini and the spartan hybrid!

Thanks Dan and Rusalka for the continued development of this awesome design!



I use a stainless steel hypodermic tube up the center. I crimp a piece of wire and place it in there

Great Idea, I have been toying with the idea of making a center pin for the SGv3, like how it was made for the mini. That way It could be set up the same and get away for the springs. Hey dont get me worng, love the spring idea, but over time the loose their effectiveness.
Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

For those of you in the know. Have a peak at the Scuba 300 units.View attachment 124590View attachment 124592

Have a pic with one the holes are drilled in?
Dan

 

[rusalka]

Have a pic with one the holes are drilled in?
Dan

Not yet. The machinist and I are tackling the best way to tackle this. We are debating on loading some in a jig and running them in a cnc mill, but we thought of the accuracy issues of having the attys in a jig with design flaws. I think he is going with a single atty in a manual mill each time. This is where the slight price increase for the next run is coming from.

Good eye, btw. Master.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Not yet. The machinist and I are tackling the best way to tackle this. We are debating on loading some in a jig and running them in a cnc mill, but we thought of the accuracy issues of having the attys in a jig with design flaws. I think he is going with a single atty in a manual mill each time. This is where the slight price increase for the next run is coming from.

Good eye, btw. Master.

I think a Jig with CNC would be faster and more accurate for large quantitys than doing it manually. Trust me I would give anything for a CNC machine The Jig only needs to clamp the top of the atty (diameter and height specific) in the same position everytime so when you run the CNC it is all the same. What design flaws are you talking about? I believe manual drilling he will have a problem with, the tolerance is VERY tight for drilling the holes. Too far out and you'll drill into o-ring groove, too far in and you'll hit the center stem. (I ruined one in the process because of the hole drilling)
The way I finally got it perfect was to measure the distance from the stem to the o-ring groove, cut the measurment in half and spin the part in the lathe and mark a line using a 60 degree thread cutter to lightly touch the face of the part so it scribed a circular line at the measured distance. Then I had a small groove at the halfway point, so when I went to drill, I drilled on the line at the points I marked out.
It worked perfectly.
Dan