Scubagen Mods

[rusalka]

I think a Jig with CNC would be faster and more accurate for large quantitys than doing it manually. Trust me I would give anything for a CNC machine The Jig only needs to clamp the top of the atty (diameter and height specific) in the same position everytime so when you run the CNC it is all the same. What design flaws are you talking about? I believe manual drilling he will have a problem with, the tolerance is VERY tight for drilling the holes. Too far out and you'll drill into o-ring groove, too far in and you'll hit the center stem. (I ruined one in the process because of the hole drilling)
The way I finally got it perfect was to measure the distance from the stem to the o-ring groove, cut the measurment in half and spin the part in the lathe and mark a line using a 60 degree thread cutter to lightly touch the face of the part so it scribed a circular line at the measured distance. Then I had a small groove at the halfway point, so when I went to drill, I drilled on the line at the points I marked out.
It worked perfectly.
Dan

Have you ever tried to use a tool that has a swivel top? I am sorry the name has eluded me right now. It is used to find the edge of something then you measure off of that. They are accurate to +/1 .002". The tool is flat on one side and round the rest of the way. They are typically .200" in diameter.

The design flaws I am referring to is the slop built into the HAAS cnc mill. The machine he has is not meant for this fine of detail. It is only designed for +/- .005"

The tool is called an edge finder.

I will pass on your recommendation though.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Have you ever tried to use a tool that has a swivel top? I am sorry the name has eluded me right now. It is used to find the edge of something then you measure off of that. They are accurate to +/1 .002". The tool is flat on one side and round the rest of the way. They are typically .200" in diameter.

The design flaws I am referring to is the slop built into the HAAS cnc mill. The machine he has is not meant for this fine of detail. It is only designed for +/- .005"

The tool is called an edge finder.

I will pass on your recommendation though.

The way I did it, was to put the part into the chuck, and then move the tool post with the thread tool to center. Then I put a dial indicator on the tool post and moved the tool post out to the the desired mesurment (Should be .147" from center). Marked the part by spinning the lathe and touching the face of the part. From that part you could set up a jig for the cnc machine.
Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

Ok lets mod the mod

Here is a twist I decided to try, I created a center pin like I did in the scubamini to center the postive post, and added threading so it uses thumb nuts for the postive connection. Have a look, the pin replaces the native 510 connectors center post.

Dan

 

[rusalka]

Ok lets mod the mod

Here is a twist I decided to try, I created a center pin like I did in the scubamini to center the postive post, and added threading so it uses thumb nuts for the postive connection. Have a look, the pin replaces the native 510 connectors center post.

Dan

So basically is it setup like the did?

 

[Scubabatdan]

So basically is it setup like the did?

Since I designed this setup for the mini back in early 2011, I would say the did is like mine LOL
But yes if your comparing them, same setup.
Dan

 

[rusalka]

Since I designed this setup for the mini back in early 2011, I would say the did is like mine LOL
But yes if your comparing them, same setup.
Dan

I got you. So can the center pin be adjustable as a result.

 

[Scubabatdan]

I got you. So can the center pin be adjustable as a result.

Adjustable in what respect?
Dan

 

[rusalka]

Adjustable in what respect?
Dan

In height connecting to the batt mod.

 

[Scubabatdan]

In height connecting to the batt mod.

I suppose if you put different size spacers in there you could adjust the height of the pin as it touches the battery connector, yes.

Personnaly I prefer my center pins to be .5mm higher that the sidewalls of the connector. Since battery center pins are different diameters. I would prefer it to contact before the sidewall gets close so there is not a possibility of shorting.
Dan

 

[theECB]

I've been running a really ghetto version of this for awhile and love it.

I used a bit of wire and a syringe tube. But it works well. Added bonus is the little wire I cram down the syringe tube at the top allows me to get the pos nice and close to the wick.

It would be cool to run a little side co-op for these so others could upgrade their OG Scubas!

 

[rusalka]

I've been running a really ghetto version of this for awhile and love it.

I used a bit of wire and a syringe tube. But it works well. Added bonus is the little wire I cram down the syringe tube at the top allows me to get the pos nice and close to the wick.

It would be cool to run a little side co-op for these so others could upgrade their OG Scubas!

You could organize that for everyone.

 

[theECB]

Oh and SS tops as well! (wink wink)

 

[theECB]

You could organize that for everyone.

Lord knows you have your hands full!

 

[Scubabatdan]

I've been running a really ghetto version of this for awhile and love it.

I used a bit of wire and a syringe tube. But it works well. Added bonus is the little wire I cram down the syringe tube at the top allows me to get the pos nice and close to the wick.

It would be cool to run a little side co-op for these so others could upgrade their OG Scubas!

For a quantity of 100, it would cost 5.00 for one unit. Not including shipping or tape/labels etc...
Dan

 

[ka724ka]

The new center pos pin really looks nice. It makes my intention to build the unassembled standard scubagen v3.

 

[jeanxito]

Nice..how can i put my hands on one?

Sent from my "Sweet Child O'Mine" Galaxy S2

 

[bstedh]

For a quantity of 100, it would cost 5.00 for one unit. Not including shipping or tape/labels etc...
Dan

I'm in for two for my shorty modded sgv3's...

Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using Tapatalk 2

 

[Anoob2]

Hey guys. I am having some troubles wit my scubav3. I tried a thread in another section but im thinkin i went to the wrong spot.
So i made my first ss wick and coil for it. Everything seemed to come out ok when i fire it without the cap. Once i put the cap on and try taking a hit i get weak vapor, flavor and th. Can anyone give me some suggestions on how to make this work better. Sorry i cant check oms or anything like that i could never figure out my meter and its got dead batteries at the moment. Not even sure what gauge wire im using as i got everything second hand but i have 5/6 raps around the wick.
Thanks for any suggestions you may have.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Hey guys. I am having some troubles wit my scubav3. I tried a thread in another section but im thinkin i went to the wrong spot.
So i made my first ss wick and coil for it. Everything seemed to come out ok when i fire it without the cap. Once i put the cap on and try taking a hit i get weak vapor, flavor and th. Can anyone give me some suggestions on how to make this work better. Sorry i cant check oms or anything like that i could never figure out my meter and its got dead batteries at the moment. Not even sure what gauge wire im using as i got everything second hand but i have 5/6 raps around the wick.
Thanks for any suggestions you may have.

Well difficult to determine the problem with out an ohms check. But it sounds like your under voltage vs ohms. Since it does not sound like dry hits as you have low TH. If you wet the wick/coil directly cap it and then vape it is it the same (ruling out dry hit). If so I would try 4 wraps. Are you running 3.7 mechanical, or VV mod?
Dan

 

[rusalka]

Also is the air hole clogged or anything?