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Zen~

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Sep 12, 2010
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Spencerport, NY
I got mine up and running, and in the process of making the coil heat evenly I discovered a potential cause of the harshness some people are experiencing...

It is of VITAL importance that your mesh wick is ABSOLUTELY not shorted to ground. The slightest touch to the center post in the juice tank, or the bottom of the juice tank will prevent success. When the wick is shorted to ground, the slightest touch of the coil to the wick causes the current to flow to ground through the mesh instead of through the ground post. That coil becomes downright manageable once the wick isn't grounded. It took me about two hours to realize why I was having trouble getting all the wraps to glow, but once I noticed it was shorted in the tank to the center post, I corrected it and wow!

It's vaping up a storm, and it hits like three Mac trucks and a mule!

If you are experiencing trouble getting the coil dialed in, or harsh hits with lackluster vapor, check for this short before waisting a lot if time poking the coil with a toothpick!

By the way, thanks for doing this Dan, I really enjoyed putting this together!
 

Dalton63841

Moved On
Feb 14, 2011
3,456
3,214
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Maine
Here is a preliminary picture of mine. I need to replace the top O-ring(got a little mean with it) and I need to blow it out. Then I just need the SS mesh to make the magic happen... Also I think I can shorten the top section up a bit, but I want to wait till I have the mesh in it to judge.

It holds ~2.5mL, which is perfect for me.
 
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Silent Soldier

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Feb 27, 2011
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OK something isn't right for me, I've got the 7/8 OD, 3/4ID polycarb tube and the #016 o rings but the polycarb will NOT fit at all. I can't get it on all the way, I got it on part of the way but now it's stuck and will not budge. I'm going to have to dremel it off. I tried lubricating the tube and cramming it on but now my hands are raw and blistered and I have a piece of polycarb stuck on my mod that I can't get off.
 

Dalton63841

Moved On
Feb 14, 2011
3,456
3,214
41
Maine
OK something isn't right for me, I've got the 7/8 OD, 3/4ID polycarb tube and the #016 o rings but the polycarb will NOT fit at all. I can't get it on all the way, I got it on part of the way but now it's stuck and will not budge. I'm going to have to dremel it off. I tried lubricating the tube and cramming it on but now my hands are raw and blistered and I have a piece of polycarb stuck on my mod that I can't get off.

Yup.. Happened to me twice. Make sure that the bevel on the tube is nice and smooth and a good clean angle, and make sure both the tube and O-rings are lubed with joose.
 

Silent Soldier

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Feb 27, 2011
394
49
45
Saint Petersburg, Florida USA
Yup.. Happened to me twice. Make sure that the bevel on the tube is nice and smooth and a good clean angle, and make sure both the tube and O-rings are lubed with joose.

I did that, it's still stuck and I can't get it the rest of the way on or get it back off now.
 

bmwzero

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
May 1, 2011
123
7
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Australia
When you get what you need back out, make your lip on both ends then grab some three hundred grit sandpaper and sand up the inside of the tubes a tad, the tube might be a bit out of spec. A fine grade sand will be good to remove excess thickness and still keep it clear, even if you tried two forty grit then a finer grade to polish it up, say three sixty grit wet and dry.
 
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Gummy Bear

Vaping Master
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Oct 10, 2010
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orlando fl
agummybear.deviantart.com
When you get what you need back out, make your lip on both ends then grab some 30grit sandpaper and sand up the inside of the tubes a tad, the tube might be a bit out of spec. A fine grade sand will be good to remove excess thickness and still keep it clear, even if you tried 24grit then a finer grade to polish it up, say 36 grit wet and dry.

Uhhh? I think you mean more like 360 grit not 36.
 

jimbalny

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Verified Member
Apr 3, 2011
1,004
435
New York
It turns out my CE2 connectors ARE just a skosh too loose. The solder shim method does not seem to be working for me, I cant get the solder to stick to the knurled part of the CE2 connector. I'm gonna take a break and try again in a bit.

con.jpg


Using a dead 510 atty connector, there were a couple that work. Some with a little bit of solder some with pressing.

Are you using soldering flux? Flux helps a lot, cleans the surface of impurities

The purpose of flux is to facilitate the soldering process. The obstacle to a successful solder joint is an impurity at the site of the union, e.g. dirt, oils or oxidation. The impurities can be removed by mechanical cleaning or by chemical means, but the elevated temperatures required to melt the filler metal (the solder) encourages the work piece (and the solder) to re-oxidize. This effect is accelerated as the soldering temperatures increase and can completely prevent the solder from joining to the workpiece.

Also, are you heating the actual connector itself or just the wire/solder?

The most common defect when hand-soldering results from the parts being joined not exceeding the solder's liquidus temperature, resulting in a "cold solder" joint. This is usually the result of the soldering iron being used to heat the solder directly, rather than the parts themselves. Properly done, the iron heats the parts to be connected, which in turn melt the solder, guaranteeing adequate heat in the joined parts for thorough wetting.
 
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