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l3oertjie

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Ugh@! Gents, start experimenting with air inlets at the top over the coil and be gone with the centre tube! Move the heating closer to the mouth for inhaling HOT vapour. The airflow over a hot coil "down there" cools down a lot before it reaches your lungs. I have found to move the coil and air inlet right to the top actually assists in a more realistic smoking experience.... Just my 2 pennies.:2c:
 
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MadmanMacguyver

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Can anyone tell me what size o-ring I need for my mouth pieces to make them snug. Just got out of the hospital and thought I seen someone say they changed mouth piece o-rings for a snug fit and now i cant find it. By they way...god bless the hospital...they let me vape while i was in there...The only room with plumes of vapor pouring out the door hehehehe :)

O-ring size will vary by manufacturer of the drip tip...I have a madvapes black delrin cheapie that fit perfect and a CCV (Crystal Clear vaping) whit delrin tip that did not on the CCV tip I switched to a 7/32 x 11/32 x 1/16 and now it fits perfectly too and as a side benefit it fits my DC cartos better...

edit side note don't try this with a CDCC (Clear Dual Coil Carto)...it will break the tube.


Ugh@! Gents, start experimenting with air inlets at the top over the coil and be gone with the centre tube! Move the heating closer to the mouth for inhaling HOT vapour. The airflow over a hot coil "down there" cools down a lot before it reaches your lungs. I have found to move the coil and air inlet right to the top actually assists in a more realistic smoking experience.... Just my 2 pennies.:2c:

That is true and with me I go for a really hot vapor but some people here smoked lights and ultra lights and weren't into TH...
 
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alexp843

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O-ring size will vary by manufacturer of the drip tip...I have a Madvapes black delrin cheapie that fit perfect and a CCV (Crystal Clear Vaping) whit delrin tip that did not on the CCV tip I switched to a 7/32 x 11/32 x 1/16 and now it fits perfectly too and as a side benefit it fits my DC cartos better...

good info...think I'll try that. got a lot of tips so it should work on one of them....right now all of them are loose....thanks
 

ScroungerLee

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Scubabatdan

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Elegant idea on the juice feed Dan, but as you say that would mean a slim part of varying thickness, I'm assuming that maximum breadth is driven by the inner and outer tube sizes that you've chosen, is that correct?

The outside of the cresent would be glued or attached to the inside of the outer tube. So when it is turned the cresent rotates around the inner tube opening or closing the gap that juice can flow into the space between the two tubes.
This help?

Top View Open Unrestricted flow:
Top View open flow.jpg
Top View Closed Flow:
Top View Closed Flow.jpg

The blue is the juice path in through the side of the main body.
Dan
 
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lorderos33

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Ugh@! Gents, start experimenting with air inlets at the top over the coil and be gone with the centre tube! Move the heating closer to the mouth for inhaling HOT vapour. The airflow over a hot coil "down there" cools down a lot before it reaches your lungs. I have found to move the coil and air inlet right to the top actually assists in a more realistic smoking experience.... Just my 2 pennies.:2c:

That's odd, I have my top tube at 1" long and the vapor is very warm. Warmer than the analogs I used to smoke for sure and my coil is a good ways from the mouthpiece. What is your resistance and battery power? Are you vaping at too high an Ohm for the voltage you're feeding the coil? I'm running 1.6 OHM on the Provari at 4v.
 

lorderos33

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The outside of the cresent would be glued or attached to the inside of the outer tube. So when it is turned the cresent rotates around the inner tube opening or closing the gap that juice can flow into the space between the two tubes.
This help?

Top View Open Unrestricted flow:
View attachment 49007
Top View Closed Flow:
View attachment 49006

The blue is the juice path in through the side of the main body.
Dan

Now that is slick!! Simple and effective. Very nice indeed.
 

mj64

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Yes, I think I see. But didn't your prior designs have 2 juice passageways? Another idea might be to use a similar type of inner sliding design but use a large size hole into the wicking area and the 'slider' could have several different size holes that could be lined up with the large hole to restrict the juice flow depending on which 'slot' it was in. You wouldn't need an unusually shaped peice then. Regardless, what I don't understand is how you would manage the rotation of the outer tube.
 

jimbalny

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Awesome concept, dan! I really like the idea of using standard size screws for the posts and the nylon insert. I was looking into replacing the negative side with a threaded stud glued in and a screw threaded in but then I read on mcmaster that nylon absorbs moister and may affect dimensions, is fiberglass a viable option?
 

perlionsmitnick

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Awesome concept, dan! I really like the idea of using standard size screws for the posts and the nylon insert. I was looking into replacing the negative side with a threaded stud glued in and a screw threaded in but then I read on mcmaster that nylon absorbs moister and may affect dimensions, is fiberglass a viable option?

I am thinking the same thing...same principle as a plastic wall anchor.
 

lorderos33

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Quick question.
I got a Scubagen done the other day, Flavor is good(er?) than I have been getting. The throat hit..
Throat hit is like I'm vaping AC 48MG at 7.4v on a LR carto...? Any suggestions?
The flavor I'm getting better at.
Thanks
400 mesh, 32ga, from 1.8-3.2 ohms

Sometimes it just takes a little while for the coil to settle in. Other times it's a slight short. Best bet is to check that the mesh wick is not touching any part of the scubagen body or the contact posts and also re-oxidize the wick. That should take care of the massive TH issue and give you a smoother more enjoyable vape.
 

Zen~

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Quick question.
I got a Scubagen done the other day, Flavor is good(er?) than I have been getting. The throat hit..
Throat hit is like I'm vaping AC 48MG at 7.4v on a LR carto...? Any suggestions?
The flavor I'm getting better at.
Thanks
400 mesh, 32ga, from 1.8-3.2 ohms

If the same coil is fluctuating between 1.8 and 3.2 ohms, that's a pretty good bet that you have a short of some kind in there someplace.

The idiotic TH is also a sign of a short. You also didnt mention what voltage youre at, but If the coil is glowing brightly and evenly with juice on it, you may want to think about kicking it down a bit.

Mine is really working great and it functions perfectly with both nichrome and kanthal wire, though I prefer the vapor density with the kanthal.
 

Scubabatdan

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