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lorderos33

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Thanks Dalton and jaguar for the condolences....my grandmother was a very special person that I didn't get to spend near enough time with. She has been going downhill fast, ever since my grandfather past. At least now her pain is gone, and she is with my grandfather once again. :)

Sorry about your loss UA. At the very least your grandmother is at peace now and not suffering. My condolences to you and I hope all is well.
 

theECB

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Just checking in. After quite a few rebuilds I finally got mine working really good. Throat hit is nice, flavor is very good and extremely consistent.

Here is what worked for me. I did drill a secondary hole in the cap and that definatly increased vapor production. Also, the tip about cutting the mesh at a 45 degree angle to the grain made rolling my wick so much easier! I was having real problems with the kinking and this made it so simple to bend the mesh.

I think my secondary air hole is a bit to big though (too airy) so I'll be heading to the store once again for the smaller (1/32) bit.

Thanks Dan and everyone for all the tips.
 

Gummy Bear

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Dan, have you published the dimensions for the DSU parts? I want to try my hand at making one... and what does DSU stand for?

I can answer that one because I am the one that gave it that name.
Down Side Upper

And there's also the S.C.U.V.A. gen 4
self contained upsidedown vapeing apparatus
 
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Brazilleon

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Alrighty, just got back from a business trip and last night thought it was time to start putting together my scubagen.
Bought a few bits and bobs to help the process (had to get another pipe cutter as the one I bought was too small). I started to read the awesome instructions again and realized I didn't have any CE2 clearomizers only standard cartomisers, so I guess they wont have the metal pipe and correct 510 fitting. All this time I thought I'd be able to just use my 510 connectors from way back when modding the nicosticks, but it looks very different and the soldering looks easier on the metal pole.
So my question is, where is the best place to buy the 'correctly' fitting clearomizers? I guess I'll buy a bunch, use them and when they are used I shall attempt my scuba.
 

Teach

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Alrighty, just got back from a business trip and last night thought it was time to start putting together my scubagen.
Bought a few bits and bobs to help the process (had to get another pipe cutter as the one I bought was too small). I started to read the awesome instructions again and realized I didn't have any CE2 clearomizers only standard cartomisers, so I guess they wont have the metal pipe and correct 510 fitting. All this time I thought I'd be able to just use my 510 connectors from way back when modding the nicosticks, but it looks very different and the soldering looks easier on the metal pole.
So my question is, where is the best place to buy the 'correctly' fitting clearomizers? I guess I'll buy a bunch, use them and when they are used I shall attempt my scuba.

I think it was PK that figured the 510 fitting out - before you mount it, put some flux on the fitting and spread some solder on the outside creating a shim - then force it in using a vice. The solder is soft so it will give, but fill out the space. Use a socket (I use 8-10mm) to protect the fitting when pushing it in. I tried to find PK's op - it's back there somewhere.
 

PKZap27

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Alrighty, just got back from a business trip and last night thought it was time to start putting together my scubagen.
Bought a few bits and bobs to help the process (had to get another pipe cutter as the one I bought was too small). I started to read the awesome instructions again and realized I didn't have any CE2 clearomizers only standard cartomisers, so I guess they wont have the metal pipe and correct 510 fitting. All this time I thought I'd be able to just use my 510 connectors from way back when modding the nicosticks, but it looks very different and the soldering looks easier on the metal pole.
So my question is, where is the best place to buy the 'correctly' fitting clearomizers? I guess I'll buy a bunch, use them and when they are used I shall attempt my scuba.

Here you go!

Create a Solder Shim...

Coat the knurled part of the CE2 with some of the Ruby Flux.

Heat this area of the CE2 with a soldering iron and add a thin layer of lead free silver solder (4% silver) over the entire knurled part of the CE2.

File or sand if needed, I didn't have to do this part.

Press CE2 into Scubagen body.

Done!
 
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Scubabatdan

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Dan, have you published the dimensions for the DSU parts? I want to try my hand at making one... and what does DSU stand for?

I can answer that one because I am the one that gave it that name.
Down Side Upper

And there's also the S.C.U.V.A. gen 4
self contained upsidedown vapeing apparatus

Took the words out of my mouth :)
Yep gummy named it Down side up LOL, no I have not posted them as yet, I want to get the dimensions right first. Still tweaking it, I got the taps and dies in today! YAY... And got the jacked up part re-turned and threaded!
IMG_0662.jpg
Looking good if I do say so myself :)
Dan
 

PKZap27

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Ok cool thanks Teach and PK!! I'll just look around and buy some clearomizers if they fit great, if not I'll solder shim them.
Cheers

I have used both types of CE2's, clearormizer and steel.

The clearomizers have a small rubber ring around them that would have to be removed.



Edit to add;

Some steel CE2's also have the rubber ring.
 
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mj64

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Ok cool thanks Teach and PK!! I'll just look around and buy some clearomizers if they fit great, if not I'll solder shim them.
Cheers

Dan reported that a recent batch from Madvapes fit perfectly. Nobody understands for sure why some fit well and some don't.
 

mj64

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Took the words out of my mouth :)
Yep gummy named it Down side up LOL, no I have not posted them as yet, I want to get the dimensions right first. Still tweaking it, I got the taps and dies in today! YAY... And got the jacked up part re-turned and threaded!
View attachment 49806
Looking good if I do say so myself :)
Dan

And here I am all happy because I got two posts built in a half hour and you made that! Looking really good!
 

Scubabatdan

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And here I am all happy because I got two posts built in a half hour and you made that! Looking really good!

LOL, it is a work in progress. After getting both parts tapped and died I found that the resistance of the oring I was looking for quickly falls away after a turn, sooooo I am in redesign mode. Rather than have the oring above the threads, I am going to put it inside the bottom piece .05" up from the bottom. Then turn the middle piece with the threads on top and a smooth side wall below. This way youll push the two pieces together forcing the top piece into the bottom piece's oring and then screw them together. this way I have the same oring resistance through out the travel.

Old parts pic:
DSU5 Old.jpg

New Parts Pic:
DSU5 New.jpg

As you can see an oring will sit inside the bottom piece and the upper piece will press into it providing a consistant resistance while turning so the settings someone chooses will not move.
Dan
 

mj64

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LOL, it is a work in progress. After getting both parts tapped and died I found that the resistance of the oring I was looking for quickly falls away after a turn, sooooo I am in redesign mode. Rather than have the oring above the threads, I am going to put it inside the bottom piece .05" up from the bottom. Then turn the middle piece with the threads on top and a smooth side wall below. This way youll push the two pieces together forcing the top piece into the bottom piece's oring and then screw them together. this way I have the same oring resistance through out the travel.

Old parts pic:
View attachment 49873

New Parts Pic:
View attachment 49874

As you can see an oring will sit inside the bottom piece and the upper piece will press into it providing a consistant resistance while turning so the settings someone chooses will not move.
Dan

When it says 'small disks symbolize threading', which is it referring to?
 
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