Ok guys quit splitting hares, the rabbits are nervous
Dan
Then mental image of this is hilarious...
Not as funny as I envisioned, but I guess it gets the point across...
Scubagen Mods
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Then mental image of this is hilarious...
Not as funny as I envisioned, but I guess it gets the point across...
I love the idea of being able to shorten one of these SGv3s, especially since I've been having a lot of backwash with this recent wick, but how safe is it to soak epoxy in the juice?
Think we need a SGv4, with a proper connector not a carto one
So how long before the concept pic is online Dan?
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Speaking of SGv3...
My top chamber has always generated some heat and I never thought anything of it. I recently just realized it's only on one side of the atty, the positive post. As you can see, I'm using a threaded post with nuts and washers. The post is insulated from the body using some Teflon tubing l had left over from earlier feeder mods. I have a piece of wire that I connected to the post using nuts that I then wrapped/soldered the the wire coming from the base. I did this so I could maintenance the post without having to worry about re-wiring the bottom connector. It looks close in these images, but it's not touching the coil or body and there are no shorts at the post that I'm aware of. The nuts are all screwed on tightly and the resistance of the atty is 2.0 ohm as expected for a 4 coil 32g Kanthol coil. Any ideas why this would be generating heat?
My top chamber has always generated some heat and I never thought anything of it. I recently just realized it's only on one side of the atty, the positive post. As you can see, I'm using a threaded post with nuts and washers. The post is insulated from the body using some Teflon tubing l had left over from earlier feeder mods. I have a piece of wire that I connected to the post using nuts that I then wrapped/soldered the the wire coming from the base. I did this so I could maintenance the post without having to worry about re-wiring the bottom connector. It looks close in these images, but it's not touching the coil or body and there are no shorts at the post that I'm aware of. The nuts are all screwed on tightly and the resistance of the atty is 2.0 ohm as expected for a 4 coil 32g Kanthol coil. Any ideas why this would be generating heat?
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Well from those pics, you have more metal mass being heated on the positive side, and this acts as sort of a heatsink too. Strange that the topcap doesn't dissipate this more evenly, does the topcap actually touch that post?
The top SS cap does not get hot, it's the tubing right next to the pos post
Oh the tubing. That acts as more of an insulator so the coil heats the positive post and you can feel it through the tubing. If you fire it without the cap/tubing on and then quickly touch after, does the positive feel warmer? It really doesn't seem like you are getting added resistance in there, so I really wouldn't worry about it.
Ok cool, thanks for the quick responses asdaq! I was worried there was some loss of vapping energy taking place 
so is there a q&a thread somewhere or is this the place? I just picked one of these up and having a hard Time getting it up I've watched the YouTube videos but I think I'm still missing something.
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Sent from my AXI0M IONIC using Tapatalk
if you're getting excessive heat on your terminals and they are acting is a heat sink draining heat away from the coil this may cause a decreas in vapor production or decrease n battery life based on the conservation of energy law
spoken from Inspire 4g
spoken from Inspire 4g
Thanks Pseudus but I got it built. I've made many wicks, lol. got the coil glowing pretty much the same across. Feels like inhaling glass shards.
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Edit Burnsy
sent from my ICS bionic
Edit Burnsy
You need to put a very small hole in the poly tube of the vapor chamber (I mean very small, like 1mm small) and point it so the air from that hole goes directly over the coil. This will tame the massive TH from the SGV3, if you are getting air only from the bottom connector, and produce thick clouds of flavorful warm vapor.
I tried this on mine and the kick in the throat and chest feeling went away immediately and made it give a completely enjoyable vape.
Hope this helps
Do I need to plug the tube under the coil then?
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Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk
I have a similar issue with my v 3 the only air hol e I have in mind is from the carto tube
spoken from Inspire 4g
Got a pic for approximant hole placement? How did you plug the center tube? Thanks.
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I'm not home or I'd get a pic.
You want the hole the same height as the coil. then you can just turn the top cap to adjust vapor.
Air flow is crucial especially on genenis attys. Best results for me was air hole about 45° from straight on coil
You want the hole the same height as the coil. then you can just turn the top cap to adjust vapor.
Air flow is crucial especially on genenis attys. Best results for me was air hole about 45° from straight on coil
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here's what I don derstand . the center post hole is directly under the coil why would that not be the optimum placement for air flow . except for the fact is a huge hole a lot of air flows through there and create a very light draw . how does drilling a hole of any size create an adjustable draw . also the center hole is much closer to the coil then any hole would be drilled in the side of the polycarbonate
spoken from Inspire 4g
spoken from Inspire 4g
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