Sentinel m16 super hot, poss. Short?.. Very confused..

[Hondahawkrider]

My sentinel is my 3rd mech.. Right now if I put clearomizer, either a aero/pro rank on it, the bottom gets scalding hot, and I have to pull the battery, which stay hot for some time. However, if I run my russian or squape, no problem.. Ohms of the russian is 1.4. The clearomizers probably around 1.8...

I also have a hcigar nemesis clone, and a diablo (which I think is real one ie a gift).. Neither has this problem (neither is kicked) with the same tanks...

#confused...

The sentinel pins have some signs of wear... I'm making sure the pins are making the connection, just csnt figure out what the deal,is...

help

 

[Miata GT]

Since it sounds like you've ruled out the clearos having a short I would have to guess that for some reason they are shorting out the 510 connection on your mod. Have you compared the 510 on the Sentinel to your other mods to see where the clearos might be shorting it?

 

[dripdaze]

Can the top cap be removed from the sentinel? If you can remove it, then attach a problem atty to it and use your multimeter to check the resistance on the bottom of the top cap. I suspect it will be shorted. If it is, you can then start a process of elimination to find the cause of the short.

 

[Dusif]

I slapped a vivi nova on my m16... Dead short at the 510, battery got super hot... Slapped the vivi on my vamo, no problem...


__________________________
M16 helio 0,29
Galileo aqua 0,8
Bolt carto tank
Vamo vivi/protank
Kts+ igo-w 0,7

 

[Hondahawkrider]

I slapped a vivi nova on my m16... Dead short at the 510, battery got super hot... Slapped the vivi on my vamo, no problem...


__________________________
M16 helio 0,29
Galileo aqua 0,8
Bolt carto tank
Vamo vivi/protank
Kts+ igo-w 0,7

Thanks for the help...
Seems consistent with a number... Just going the rebuildable way now anyway.... Picked up a magoo, and love it

 

[Hondahawkrider]

Aaaaarrgh... My magoo after a rebuild is now causing a short... My Russian 91 is fine on my m16, magoo not so much.. Both also work fine on my diablo.. Both tanks are around 1.0 ohms

I'm fairly certain it's the floating pin... Two things, for it to fire the magoo center pin has to stick out past the bottom. If it's got a spring as part of the mechanism... If you attach the magoo to the top of the m16, put the top cylinder on it and slide a battery you can feel the battery make the connection, but you can feel the play.
You can feel it hit the pin, but due to the spring, you can feel the battery move 1/8 of an inch, give or take... I suspect when I tighten the top pin pushes the battery down to make a full time connection. I've adjusted the magoo so the pin was flush, no fire, and with just a tiny bit sticking out, short is still ongoing...
The m16 is the only floating pin I have that works this way..

Also, my pins are worn, see pict... Ive ordered a replacement cap to see if that fixes it

Supposedly, someone makes replacement silver pins, but haven't found the link

Sigh

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/...C-55D8-43B6-ADBD-3CE67FE63E11_zpsfzv1i1vl.jpg

 

[JaRod]

I have 2 original Grand Vapor mods, the Semtinel V4 and the M16, and I benched both because their design is flawed. The center pin is way too large (wide), so if you use an atty where the center pin and thread body are flush, or if the center pin is recessed into the 510 threads it will create a short circuit because the atty's threads will bridge the mods's center pin and mass creating a short, I've attached a picture where you can compare the Grand Vapor center pin (far Right) to 2 other original mods, a Nemesis and a Pisces.
So these Grand Vapor mods are a Grand POS and very unsafe. I have like 3 shorts in my hand, not a nice feeling

 

[Hondahawkrider]

Well.... Shiiiiiiit.

Anyone know of a way to get rid of the floating pin for GV mods

 

[JaRod]

Well.... Shiiiiiiit.

Anyone know of a way to get rid of the floating pin for GV mods

You can still use the mod just being extra careful when attaching the atty and making sure than its center pin protrudes beyond the threads see the attached picture.
Option 2 would be remove the center pin and grind off the floating pin with a Dremel tool, a file or similar to reduce its diameter

 

[Hondahawkrider]

Yep... The problem is the on the magoo (ithaka clone) the pin is spring loaded - so the floating pin isn't stationary... When you tighten up the mod, it completes the circuit when the battery hits the floating pin, but won't power the mod till its screwed in more to take the slack outta spring in the tank. The problem is that soon as metal touches metal, the mod heats up and isn't channeled into the tank, but into the mod. And voila burned hand..
It works fine on my Russian, but I'll figure out something to make the pin stationary.. Longer pin with threads that one can tighten from both sides would work, or a pin that has thread all the way down the shaft, rather than just on the tip..You can't file the current one much as the threads are only at the end...
If I can find something that works, I could flux it and coat it in silver, I'd have to be careful with the threads, but could coat the ends...
I appreciate the help, I'll figure it out..
In the meantime I just scored a copper with brass end vanilla mod to serve my needs in the mean time . I'll post up a solution when I find it.
Fatdaddy has some pins that might work, but I may have to drill my top to get it to work... Fastech has replacement tops, for the m16 clone, probably not as nice machined threads, but per a m16 review vs the clone, the clone parts will work on the authentic. So I should have something to play with first..


Thanks for all the help