Should i get an SL or OG

[clasicks]

Nothing will restore the original copper finish color... not copper polish or anything else.

NP on pics... the first pictures I took of it when I got it.

Still a very nice very finish after all! Thanks

 

[clasicks]

Bling to the rescue!!! Get a white one, and bling it up with some copper colored sticky backed decorations!!

ewe gross.

 

[Spydro]

Still a very nice very finish after all! Thanks

Not as easy to see, a more recent picture of it... but it hasn't changed since I got it mid Aug 2014.

 

[CMD-Ky]

that kinda turns me off.. hrmm.

The clear jwrap doesn't get much talk. I have a copper vein that I put the clear jwapp on and after eleven months, it is still going strong. There are some small gaps but Mrs CMD-Ky had some super tough clear nail polish that I used to fill those gaps. There is the slightest muting of the copper gleam through the wrap but, from what I read, that is worth the durability to me.

It does help to heat the REO slightly when applying the wrap.

 

[DoubleDZA]

A copper vein SL sounds magical


I love my SL and will always recommend it first.
I'm receiving my first black anodized OG REO month end so I hope I love it just as much, got it for a great deal which included a 2013 cyclone

 

[ElConquistador]

I got a silver vein door/black wrinkle body. A few quick coats of clear enamel on the door has kept it like new. Coating the body would be a lot more fussy work.

 

[Fishcakes]

My vote is for the og. Classic looks, and i just feel like its more durable. But the sl look cool as hell.

I also have a very dirty job and itd be impossible for me to keep the sl even close to clean


But get what you like, we dont descriminate!

 

[ed101z]

Is this your first reo or an addition?? As others have said, the copper vein does require a good bit more work to keep it really nice! E101z has a great video showing how he did his. @ed101z I have this vid link, is this still how you do it, or have you come up with a better way? https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/clear-coating-your-reo-grand-and-removing-it.660082/

I was also going to suggest solid body and SL door if you aren't certain, particularly with copper vein (CV), the door would be easier to deal with the clear coating. If you get a coordinating color mod and CV door then you can see if the protecting of it is something that you want to keep up with. If you do, and if you like the SL, then later you can get a CV SL mod, with door that coordinates with first mod, and interchange them to your heart's delight. That's what I've been thinking about. I have a black wrinkle mini, and at some point will get a CV SL door for it. Maybe even a kawa green SL door too, that looks super sharp!

If this is your first reo, welcome to the family!! Lots of great info here, and plenty of super helpful folks to answer any and all questions!

Yes, that video is outdated. One could still do it, but I recommend not using the Rustoleum Clear Coat method. The Rustoleum will protect the paint really well; but however, one tiny little bump against the counter while grabbing a drink will crack the enamel. It won't hurt the Paint job at all, but you'll see a hair-line crack that will remind you of a crack on a hard boiled egg. This little crack in the enamel will drive ya crazy (or it did me).

I recommend using the ProtectaClear. It's fairly easy to put on; take off, ...and you can use it on your Atomizer, and Button Cover as well. Yes, I used it on my Brass RM2 and Brass Buton Cover, and they both still look like shiny 24k Gold well over 2 months of use. I don't have to deal with Patina at all.

There is a trick to using ProtectaClear though. It's a thin liquid, and can be difficult to spray since it's not your typical spray paint. But however, once it dries, it's very strong and durable. I plan on putting together some videos to illustrate the coatings I did to my Brass RM2 and Button Cover. I need someone to hold the video camera as I illustrate, but that seems hard to come by.

BTW, the ProtectaClear can be removed - which will allow the Patina to come back, ...or you can keep the shiny 24k Gold look. I personally like the 24k Gold look.

I did spray the ProtectaClear on my Copper Vein, and Black Wrinkle. I disassembled the Reo's (took the spring out; removed the delrin fire button; taped the door; put small paper-towel balls in the 510; and spring screw hole - as shown in the pictures) , and did have a few problems coating them (thick in some areas, and thin in others), but was able to use the Xylene to remove it. I just poured the Xylene in a container big enough to submerge my Reo's in, and only left them in the Xylene for about 2 minutes at a time. While submerged, I lifted them up and down while brushing them softly with a Natural Bristle brush. After a few minutes, the ProtectaClear coating was gone, and I immediately washed them with Dawn and warm water. Then, re-sprayed them with 2 coats.

After all that, I learned one thing about using ProtectaClear. That is... you want to spray it on thicker than you do normal spray paint, and hold it at a sharp angle for 5 minutes while keeping a paper towel on the corner to let the excess absord and run into it. This will eliminate thick areas from forming, and allow it to smooth properly, and dry evenly.

Overall, the ProtectaClear worked great, and still looks awesome on both my Reo's; Brass RM2, and Brass Button cover. You can use it on other items such as jewelry if you want.

 

[Debadoo]

ewe gross.

lol ok, not a blinger, got it!

Thanks Ed, I knew you'd mentioned protectaclear, but wasn't sure how different it or the process was from your video. Sounds like a nice product. No tripod for the camera? Or not feasible due to having to move around too much?

 

[Spydro]

I bought stain clear VHT Flameproof Very High Temperature Exhaust Manifold paint (SP115) to coat all mine with, then never bothered.