denali_41 said:
I've designed power supplies for industrial furnaces that controlled hundreds of kilowatts of power into really difficult heating elements made of metallic molybdenum or silicon carbide. Both have really high temperature coefficients, meaning their resistance changes with temperature. So I think it's safe assumption that I understand Ohm's law.
However, I really do like having the state-of-charge of the battery, the resistance of the load, and the power setting available at a glance, without having to do anything except fire the unit. Maybe that's why I still wear a wrist watch as well, 'cause I don't want to have to dig my cell phone out to see what time it is; just like I don't wanna have to wade through some menus to see what my battery's state-of-charge is.
. LOL!blink: ). When I started looking at WHAT to get him, HOLY COW, there's a whole science to shaving these days, and it's all about going back to basics. Meanwhile, we're up to what? 5 blades now on regular razors and a huge assortment of electronic razors?.
I'm not at all sure we've established that.
Well... that's the thing people keep forgetting when they talk about technology and ecigs... they seem to forget the point of the ecig... it's to replace a CIGARETTE, which is as low tech as you can get... or a pipe, which is lower tech still. Why do we need that level of technology? Because with great technology comes lots of repairs
Well... that's the thing people keep forgetting when they talk about technology and ecigs... they seem to forget the point of the ecig... it's to replace a CIGARETTE, which is as low tech as you can get... or a pipe, which is lower tech still. Why do we need that level of technology? Because with great technology comes lots of repairs
My son is getting all into the old razors (he JUST turned 18, so he hasn't been shaving long) ... that's what he wanted, razor stuff, for Christmas. He doesn't have anything approaching what you guys have... I just got him got him an Edwin Jagger Double Edged Safety Razor, with stand, a nice brush, lots of shaving soaps, a big assortment of double edged razor blades, and of course a big alum block
I can see wanting new upgrades for hobby purposes, and they'll always be a market for it, but to expect the BEST and most BASIC battery to 'upgrade', when there's simply nothing better for the simple purpose of acting like a battery makes no sense to me.
I hope Provari DOES NOT UPGRADE EVER. If they do, the unit in your hand will be worth $1000 in a very short time.
I want someone to name ONE mod, DNA20, whatever, that you can throw out the window, run over with a car, smash against a concrete wall, pick it up and vape it, besides the Provari. And PROVARI should be the one changing to a easily breakable unrepairable flimsy 'upgrade'?
As for wrapping the coil... it IS tricky... but I found that practice makes perfect... and always get a magnifying glass!!!!
I've gotten much faster at it. The trick is to wrap on a mandrel, or bit, or teeny screwdriver...
1. pinch one end of the wire in the hand holding the rod (squish wire with fingernail so it can't move), do 2 wraps,
2. SQUISH the 2 coils tight together while tugging tight with the other side,
3. then another wrap, squish it tight to the last
(make sure they are all tight to the rod after each wrap, if one loop's bigger in the middle, it's way harder to fix later),
4. another wrap, til you are done (I just did 10 wraps with 28 ga, on a tiny Kayfun screwdriver, pinched into a microcoil and it's now 1.1 ohms, I wanted to test the lowest the Provari can go).
5. Then, take a tweezer/needle nose pliers, and bend each of the 2 end wires BACK towards the coil on each end direction to a sharp V. It looks like a coil with little v shaped elbows on both sides, because you want the coil to run vertical to your 2 posts down the 2 sides facing the juice channels, not lay post to post). Clip excess wire.
6. Then all you have to do is loosen the post screws and loop each side over it and tighten down.
7. Push your core rod through the coils again, and LIFT UP so it's not blocking the air channel once you wick.
8. TEST FIRE on your Provari and get your ohms reading BEFORE you put your wick in, or it will be a pain to adjust later. Coils should all light up at once, not 1 after another. Burn it fully red/yellow at least once so disgusting taste and yucky stuff burns off.
8. push Wick of choice through (I am using organic cotton balls from Walgreens). Adjust so your air channel is not blocked (or it may leak/flood), and that no wires should touch, trim and cap. Then open top chimney and poke the cotton down so it's not obstructing coil or air hole in middle. The airhole being full of cotton or juice = leak.
9. Final trick, for the Kayfun, I pull off fluffy bits of cotton ball to poke down around the top post if it's not looking full, again not covering the coils or the air channels below it- you clog up that air channel, and you are GOING to have a leak in the Kayfun, near the juice wicking, so there's more juice absorbing it.
This acts almost like cartos, so that you don't run out of juice and burn up your coils when the tank is empty, you have a small reserve on the cotton.
You know... this is harder to explain than to do. It's also hard to get photos of, because it takes both hands to do it! But if you read the above slowly, and try to visualize and try it, it's really quite easy after you do it a few times. Also, making the V is easier than trying to WRAP around teensy tiny posts you can barely see
! And that's from someone with 16 mods and 49 atomizers to compare on/against them (not counting any tanks I made myself) .
I beg to differ with you. If you try to drive a 8:1 variable resistance load with a fixed voltage or current, you're gonna have a bad time.
Well in your variable heat capacities of various substances under differing loads, of course you are going to need variable power. My point was calculations of the heat capacities and BTU output requirement is the "brain work". The power is as simple as converting your BTU to kW or whatever. No large modern commercial boilers operate at a constant power output. You simply tell them what your desired leaving temperature is, and the processor of the boiler, or BAS, or whatever stages the boiler up and down accordingly. To me, that is quite simple and I write logic sequences for this all the time. Calculation of the required output when the medium differs and determining the power sweet spot is much more difficult than giving the output fire % command....
I'd like to know how many mAh I was actually able to get out of a particular battery before the voltage drops so low that the device refuses to fire anymore. Right now, the owners of a particular device have no way to objectively compare the performance of different batteries in their devices, and I think it would be great to be able to do that.
It is a pretty straightforward calculation and the performance data of every major brand of batteries is posted on several threads here on ECF. Technonut has a great link in a blog of his showing the curves. Once you know the slope and intercept points of a battery curve, calculation of the mAh is pretty simple, I would think someone of your advanced technical knowledge would figure it out pretty quick. Since the slope of the performance curve varies quite a bit for each individual manufacturer, and the MOD cannot possibly know what brand of battery you are putting in it, the MOD mAh software/firmware/whatever would have have a general curve which would sort of make the whole feature useless. That is why I just press the button 9 times and check voltage...
But that is just me.
Seriously? You haul FIVE batteries around and you don't understand why I want to charge on the go, in the device, and why I want to see the battery's state-of-charge at a glance, without having to click my way into a menu?
You did not acknowledge the safety part I tried to stress. The why I am happy to "haul" five batteries around. So here is why I carry five batteries, again:
<I have an Xtar VP-1 that I do my charging on because it is the best I have found on the market. I just carry extra batteries, so when I get home I can charge them all up safely. I would not like to charge my device through a micro-USB, because I would be risking my ProVari on whatever power source I plugged into. There are lots of threads here on ECF with horror stories about direct charging devices using this method. To me, the safety of charging is paramount. I am happy to carry a few bats to make sure I don't have a bad situation with batteries or my mods.>
I haven't seen those horror stories, but I'm guessing that they all involved the finest Chinesium devices.
I have no idea if this is true. I guess ProVape would have to answer as to why they don't hand you a micro-USB and slap an extra opening into their mod to permit it to charge. I suppose it could have to do with the fact that they are minimizing the number of "failure points" into the body of the device. The more openings in the mod, the faster something will get in kind of reasoning, I suppose.
Right. The perfect device (for me) does not exist yet. The DNA 20 controller + DNA Charger come reasonably close. Now if someone would just stick both of them in a mod that had an easily replaceable standard-sized battery, we'd be most of the way there.
Good luck finding something with all the features you want.
I agree, Provari are the BEST
One of the MVP2 on the left is my husband's... who is trying to vape more. I told him if he didn't try, I'm going to keep buying more with his money til he does. It appears to be working... LOL!
