Sigelei 100 watt dual 18650 box mod
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Nowhere did I say that. Every electronic device is designed to operate in working voltage range. A DNA30 operates from 4.2 to 3.3 volts. This chip is designed to work from 8.4 volts down to whatever its cutoff is. Regarding the 110/230 argument... are there not 110v and 230v appliances that do the same amount of work? Sure there are. But their circuitry/motors/whatever are designed for that particular input voltage. AND... the 110v appliance will be pulling roughly twice the current of the 230v appliance.
They are two separate systems.The battery drives the board and the board drives the atty. As long as the battery's voltage is within the working range of the electronics, the electronics will deliver any voltage its capable of to the atty.
All I was ever stating is that two cells, whether series or parallel, have the same potential.
Whether you have 100mah @ 100v or 10000mah @ 1v, its still the same potential. You just need the right device for each.
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I would think the chip takes the voltage or current outputted by the batteries and what it doesn't used is recycled to the battery through the negative side. Of course a little will be lost via heat in the chip/mod/wires but the current has to go somewhere, it's not like the remaining is wasted. And mitro has to be correct in saying it is the same potential in either way. Idk why I'm even getting my two cents in, I love science and learning.
Let's say that I take my TOBH off my mech and stick it on a Sigelei.
Now, my TOBH is coiled at 0.2Ω. That means (theoretically) that on a fully charged battery it's going to produce 88.2 watts and pull 21 amps.
Next, let's say that I put it on my Sigelei. The batteries will be pushing 8.4v. So I set it for 88 watts. That means that it's only pulling 10.5 amps, thus doubling your battery life, as I understand electricity. It might be slightly higher than 10.5 due to power use of the chip but it won't be much higher.
Amperage must be conserved, as I understand it. The chip will always get ~8.4v, but what changes is the amperage that it's pulling.
Can somebody explain why I'm wrong?
Now, my TOBH is coiled at 0.2Ω. That means (theoretically) that on a fully charged battery it's going to produce 88.2 watts and pull 21 amps.
Next, let's say that I put it on my Sigelei. The batteries will be pushing 8.4v. So I set it for 88 watts. That means that it's only pulling 10.5 amps, thus doubling your battery life, as I understand electricity. It might be slightly higher than 10.5 due to power use of the chip but it won't be much higher.
Amperage must be conserved, as I understand it. The chip will always get ~8.4v, but what changes is the amperage that it's pulling.
Can somebody explain why I'm wrong?
I'm curious what the chip does when your battery is putting out 3.7 volts but the device wants 6 to do the job asked. Like the other way around. What happens when it needs more, not less?
If your batteries are low the device will only go up to the watts/ volts that the batteries can power. I think that's in the manual if you look on eciggity.com
Edit; but that doesn't mean it needs full batteries to get to 100 watts, Idk exactly what level of charge that will happen.
http://www.eciggity.com/sigelei-100-watt-box-mod/#PhotoSwipe1410483609705
And according to the manual when your batts get lower than 6.2 V they will needed changing.
Edit; but that doesn't mean it needs full batteries to get to 100 watts, Idk exactly what level of charge that will happen.
http://www.eciggity.com/sigelei-100-watt-box-mod/#PhotoSwipe1410483609705
And according to the manual when your batts get lower than 6.2 V they will needed changing.
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From what I understand the chip has boost circuitry that takes the input current and increases it when needed. That's how a provari (for example) works.
And as the batts loose charge, which starts to happen the moment you use the device, you won't be even above 8.0 volts.
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According to eBay Vapercompany has sold 7 units. Vapercompany says they've sent out the first batch already. I guess a batch could be as low as two huh? I would guess that VapeNW will experience the same delay.
I had about crossed it off my possible next mod list. But after seeing this I think I'll leave it on the list for now. Would like more info on it and a couple of the other higher watts mods coming out. But it's a start. And it didn't look to bad.
A few thoughts about it...
The 510 center pin is reverse threaded. It's a good thing there's a ribbon to get the batteries out because of how they sink in it'd be hard to grab ahold of them. The big button is nice for me but it seems to be on the opposite side of where it should be. I like how there's no seam across the top like the iPV2. The included mini screwdriver has the biggest flat head I've ever seen on a mini screwdriver which makes it perfect for the center pin and the battery door screws. The battery door screws are standard Phillips #2, I think, which have pretty big heads that leave a good size hole when only using the magnets. The battery meter on the screen might be garbage because when the box stopped firing and said check battery the screen showed fifty percent remaining. I could turn down the power and vape a little longer but not much at all. The batteries were just about 3.5v each when I put them on the charger
I think it might be functioning exactly as it was intended which might be only buck circuitry and no boost... Earlier when I checked voltage with inline meter I had already been vaping a little which is probably why I could only get 7.5v when the display showed 8.5... With two fresh batteries I could get just about 8v showing on the inline meter. I checked various resistances .2, .5, 1, 1.3, 1.9 with various voltage levels and the inline meter was showing the output to be dead on or no more than .2v low. Maybe a little voltage drop here and there? Could be why they used copper battery contacts and a copper 510 pin? When the batteries started to drop off is when I noticed the inline meter showing output way low from the intended voltage. So that's why I'm thinking maybe only buck and no boost. If high wattage vaping is wanted maybe best to go low resistance so your asking for less voltage?
I don't really know much yet. I need more time with it
The 510 center pin is reverse threaded. It's a good thing there's a ribbon to get the batteries out because of how they sink in it'd be hard to grab ahold of them. The big button is nice for me but it seems to be on the opposite side of where it should be. I like how there's no seam across the top like the iPV2. The included mini screwdriver has the biggest flat head I've ever seen on a mini screwdriver which makes it perfect for the center pin and the battery door screws. The battery door screws are standard Phillips #2, I think, which have pretty big heads that leave a good size hole when only using the magnets. The battery meter on the screen might be garbage because when the box stopped firing and said check battery the screen showed fifty percent remaining. I could turn down the power and vape a little longer but not much at all. The batteries were just about 3.5v each when I put them on the charger
I think it might be functioning exactly as it was intended which might be only buck circuitry and no boost... Earlier when I checked voltage with inline meter I had already been vaping a little which is probably why I could only get 7.5v when the display showed 8.5... With two fresh batteries I could get just about 8v showing on the inline meter. I checked various resistances .2, .5, 1, 1.3, 1.9 with various voltage levels and the inline meter was showing the output to be dead on or no more than .2v low. Maybe a little voltage drop here and there? Could be why they used copper battery contacts and a copper 510 pin? When the batteries started to drop off is when I noticed the inline meter showing output way low from the intended voltage. So that's why I'm thinking maybe only buck and no boost. If high wattage vaping is wanted maybe best to go low resistance so your asking for less voltage?
I don't really know much yet. I need more time with it
Thanks for the video
I noticed he got his from vapercompany today also. Not that it matters but I also happened to noticed his box number was 00161. I wonder if it is also the 161st one made. 
That would make mine the 159th one made
They have a website too, vapercompany.com and two listings on ebay one for each color. They say their first order was 10 which they've already shipped to customers. When I ordered my black it said 22 sold on that listing.
I ordered mine from their website back when it was listed at 89.95 and used coupon code "Pegasus" to bring it down to 82.75 out the door
The website price has gone up I see but the coupon still works to knock off eight percent at least
Yeah with the coupon I would have paid more than Ebay, $94 compared to a hundred and something, $102 I think. I'm so jealous of you getting yours already grrrr.
Oh I'm surprised it currently cost less going through them on eBay. I'd think with the PayPal, eBay fees and what not it would be cheaper through a website
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