Sigelei #20 - If you own one I could use some feedback!

[CloudZ]

I just ordered a Sigelei #20, but now I am having second thoughts after reading the reports of the switch malfunctioning. I knew there were some concerns about the switch design before I ordered it, but I just figured there were a few people being overly cautious and others who just happened to get a rare defect or abused it. Well, after ordering it I noticed there are several users on other forums who have actually had the little spring in the switch stick, firing continuously, and overload their batteries or self-destruct the mod.

I have requested that my order be canceled, but I am not sure if it will be honored. So, in the event that this mod gets shipped to me, I'd just like to hear the experiences of members here who own one. Who has had theirs work flawlessly for months and who hasn't? I guess they are considered more safe if you stay above 1 ohm, but I fully intend to run coils in the 0.6-0.8 ohm range since it is a mechanical after all. I gather that the problems arise when things heat up at higher wattage.

Any feedback will be greatly appreciated. I want to know if I should return it immediately, if I get it, and intend to use sub-ohm coils.

 

[crxess]

Okay, purchased (2) through a coop, so no way to return.
Read some issues with conductivity - first release units.
Bottom Spring on both were junk - no conduction at all. Replace
Used Ohm meter to test entire unit before inserting battery.(both units)
Found (glue?) used on 510 threaded insert
Used Dremel and wire wheel to clean all connection points - Threading, spring ends, top pin,
Removed 510 insert an wire brushed all threading in head and 510 insert.
Tested switch's several times with meter for .000 closed - infinity open
Tested mods to .003 & .001 for Closed from Battery cap to 510 insert inner threading.

Both mods work decently

Sigelei-K is to loose to work properly in the #20

Run my #20's at around 1.2-1.6ohm device dependent.

 

[icyice]

My friend has one, personally if I were you, I recommend you sand down your contacts immediately. It seems as though the #20 has a significant voltage drop.

 

[look30]

Got one today and works fine. Button twists a little too easy and keeps locking but other than that no regrets.

Sexy :

 

[CloudZ]

Well, I didn't get the cancel request to them quickly enough and the #20 has shipped.

Anyone have experience with long term use of sub ohm coils? I don't mind doing a little sanding and swapping out the bottom spring for better conductivity. What I am afraid of is heating the switch spring to the point where it gets stuck firing, then I have to drop the battery as quick as possible then attempt a repair after it cools down. That is, if a repair is even possible without fabricating new plastic parts, since I heard this fault can melt some of them.

\*_* Posted from my humanoid robot phone *_*/

 

[Asmotron]

I've had mine for about 2 weeks and the only reason I've stopped using it is to play with the SVD I snagged.

I played around with around 1 ohm coils. Did a .9, did a 1, did a 1.2. I never had a hot button issue or a sticking issue. I even did some pulsing and dry fires on a relatively fresh battery (about 3.9v) with no issues. One thing I did do with mine was take out the top and bottom firing pins and lightly coated the spring on the lower pin with Oxgard (conductive grease). Not so much that it is going to self fire but enough to coat it and get in between the wraps. I also polished the top pin with Oxgard leaving a thin layer. I'm not an electrical engineer but I think the Oxgard will help reduce the possibility of the switch "welding".

All in all I don't think you are going to have a problem unless you are taking LOOOOONG draws on sub ohm coils, or happen to lay it down in a way that the fire button gets held down for a long time.

 

[CloudZ]

Alright, feeling a little bit better about it. I think it might be the V2 version with the brass battery spring, and they mention something about an improved copper center post. I'll have to see for sure when it gets here.

The thing is, I like the looks (and cost) of this mod so much that its worth tinkering with to make it better and more reliable. I just can't imagine a way to improve the spring switch so it is less prone to fail. The conductive grease idea seems easy enough, I'll have to pick some up if I end up sticking with the #20.

\*_* Posted from my humanoid robot phone *_*/

 

[CloudZ]

All in all I don't think you are going to have a problem unless you are taking LOOOOONG draws on sub ohm coils, or happen to lay it down in a way that the fire button gets held down for a long time.

That's true, and the beauty of sub-ohm coils and a giant air hole for me is I can rip off a few quick 1-2 second drags and still get a nice plume going.

\*_* Posted from my humanoid robot phone *_*/

 

[bapgood]

I would be careful with the 20 regardless, but especially with sub ohm coils.

There is a spring that sets on top of the bottom post inside the cap (positive battery connection), when the button is pushed it pushes the spring into the top post. But there is nothing to pull the spring off the post if it were to arc and stick.

There have been several reports of the spring sticking and causing problems.

Safety wise - I would say a good hot spring and/or short stop or similar fuse as well as a light coat of conductive grease. The grease may help in stopping a potential arc situation from sticking.

Performance wise - as others have said....sanding the contacts, as well as a good hot spring and conductive grease. I also soldered the spring to the bottom pin while I had it apart.

I got my 20 working pretty well, but the spring situation is a little unnerving so I don't use it much.

 

[crxess]

The simplest AND MOST OVERLOOKED way to stop a misfiring switch is to give the Atty/Tank/etc. a quick twist.

Once contact is broken to the center pin the circuit is OPEN and not passing power to heat up.

The real, very serious, issue a few have had is with a #20 received that has a dead short around the switch area.
Have not had anyone post as to what the cause is.
Switch itself is in Delrin(non-conductive) which leaves a mystery as to what is touching the Case.
Perhaps, zealous over tightening is shorting a few lower quality batteries.

 

[CloudZ]

I would be careful with the 20 regardless, but especially with sub ohm coils.

This is what will bug me, if I have to be a lot more "careful" with it than another mech. It will be obvious if I am in a quiet room, if it continues to hiss after I release the button I can quickly get the battery out. If I can't hear it, I would notice it getting hot or vapor coming out of the atty, or my greatest fear is to see or smell smoke coming out of it. At that point it would be toast, along with the battery most likely. I don't want to have to take out the battery every time I leave it alone, either.

Also, I should mention that I don't want to hear about how someone else is worried about the switch design; I am perfectly aware of what it is, how it functions, and how it fails. I've read all the horror stories and cautionary explanations on the web. I want to hear whether or not the owner has had a failure and if they constantly run sub-ohm coils. I am worried enough as it is... and I may still send the box containing it right back where it came from.

\*_* Posted from my humanoid robot phone *_*/

 

[bapgood]

This is what will bug me, if I have to be a lot more "careful" with it than another mech. It will be obvious if I am in a quiet room, if it continues to hiss after I release the button I can quickly get the battery out. If I can't hear it, I would notice it getting hot or vapor coming out of the atty, or my greatest fear is to see or smell smoke coming out of it. At that point it would be toast, along with the battery most likely. I don't want to have to take out the battery every time I leave it alone, either.

Also, I should mention that I don't want to hear about how someone else is worried about the switch design; I am perfectly aware of what it is, how it functions, and how it fails. I've read all the horror stories and cautionary explanations on the web. I want to hear whether or not the owner has had a failure and if they constantly run sub-ohm coils. I am worried enough as it is... and I may still send the box containing it right back where it came from.

\*_* Posted from my humanoid robot phone *_*/

I agree with not wanting to worry about it vs another mod without worry....hence the shelf

To your other point - I bought two and sent one to a friend who almost exclusively runs sub ohm coils. He didn't touch the internals of the switch and in less than a week of use the spring stuck.

IMHO the money is better spent on a different mod.

 

[Asmotron]

I don't want to have to take out the battery every time I leave it alone, either.

When I'm done using my #20 I just spin down the telescope a ways to make sure its disconnected. As a side note I disassembled the switch and did my Oxgard thing after about a straight week of vaping on it exclusively. Like I said I wasn't fully in the "sub ohm" range, but I did pulse 2 SS wicks, and setup a couple other silica wicks and dry fired those a bit to see how my coil looked. When I took the switch apart I examined the top pin and the spring to see if there were any indications of carbon buildup or marring from arcing when the switch closed, and there weren't.

Any mech could, theoretically, weld the switch shut. And bad enough that the spring return wouldn't pull it apart. If you ever played with one of those big flash light batteries as a kid and making sparks on wire you know they can make a pretty strong weld when they arc.

A lot of people are crying doom and gloom on the #20, and while I do plan on rebuilding the switch at some point in the future, I'm certainly not afraid of using it. Just know the "risks" and respect the electricity, imo.

 

[CloudZ]

I ordered another mech, the Sigelei #23. I read somewhere that the switch design is a little different, similar but no spring in there. I can't find that info at the moment otherwise I would post a link. I will send the #20 back as soon as I get it and I should only be out a couple extra bucks, and that is if I have to pay return shipping. Not sure if I can just refuse the package and the vendor will accept that for a return/refund.

Its too bad because I love the look of the #20, but I would be thinking about that little switch spring constantly as I am vaping on it. Normally I don't worry about stuff like this, but being an engineer I can see that very little thought was put into the design. They could have easily put in a beefier spring to reduce its temperature while current is passing through and no one would have had a problem. Instead they drilled out big holes in the sides to passively cool it.

To all who own the #20 or are thinking about buying one, just read the info around the web and decide for yourself. If it doesn't bother you, go for it or keep on using it. There's a good chance you wont ever have a problem, and its your money and your equipment so its your choice.

 

[RottenJeeves]

There is a hole in the side where the switch assembly is. I feel like you could just spray a little wd40 in their once in awhile and never have an issue.

My 2 cents.

 

[justinstar77]

If you like the look of the 20 you should check out the 24 it works in both thumb and pinky/palm button modes. Much better switch design with no spring that could get too hot and cause a short. Here it is in 18650 mode with a nimbus clone on top.

 

[MJMcMahon]

I agree with not wanting to worry about it vs another mod without worry....hence the shelf

To your other point - I bought two and sent one to a friend who almost exclusively runs sub ohm coils. He didn't touch the internals of the switch and in less than a week of use the spring stuck.

IMHO the money is better spent on a different mod.

Thanks for this information! I had been looking for a mechanical and bought a #20 yesterday when I found it at a local B&M. I'll be taking it back today because of the safety issues. I know they had a couple other Sigelei models - any others to specifically avoid?

 

[bapgood]

Thanks for this information! I had been looking for a mechanical and bought a #20 yesterday when I found it at a local B&M. I'll be taking it back today because of the safety issues. I know they had a couple other Sigelei models - any others to specifically avoid?

I'm not that big into mechanical mods, I had a 19 and after a little work I got it working probably as good as most any mech. Kind of depends on your preference of button and etc....lots of info in this thread for sigelei mods http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/399678-sigelei-mechnical-mods.html.....you just have to wade through it all....I would probably work backward through the thread or search for specific models.

 

[MJMcMahon]

Thanks bapgood...lots of info is an understatement!

 

[RottenJeeves]

If you like the look of the 20 you should check out the 24 it works in both thumb and pinky/palm button modes. Much better switch design with no spring that could get too hot and cause a short. Here it is in 18650 mode with a nimbus clone on top.
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Nice. How hard was it to remove the ugly locking ring?