Thanks! I was just curious if the oils from our skin would cause any discoloration of the finish if left untreated. It doesn't sound like you are worried about that though.
Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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Thanks! I was just curious if the oils from our skin would cause any discoloration of the finish if left untreated. It doesn't sound like you are worried about that though.
I got my #20 in the mail today from RichMan. I'm surprised at the speed of the shipping from Hawaii! And, for lack of a better term, the #20 is adorable, but also very classy looking. I guess I didn't really realize just how small mods would be. Looking in the holes so I could see the switch I can see how it can be a concern of that little spring getting welded to the top pin, especially if using low Ohm coils.
After I get some batteries, a fuse, and my AGA-T2 I'll play a bit, and then think about modding up a new switch. I have some access to a CNC milling machine so I may be able to cut/design a new delrin or nylon switch housing and play around. I'll keep the thread/the social group up to date when I get some time for that.
Quick question: Will running the AGA-T2 with a "u" silica wick work alright on a Mech to get started, or should I just head toward getting some mesh wicks?
After I get some batteries, a fuse, and my AGA-T2 I'll play a bit, and then think about modding up a new switch. I have some access to a CNC milling machine so I may be able to cut/design a new delrin or nylon switch housing and play around. I'll keep the thread/the social group up to date when I get some time for that.
Quick question: Will running the AGA-T2 with a "u" silica wick work alright on a Mech to get started, or should I just head toward getting some mesh wicks?
Congrats!! Yes the #20 is a great stealth size. I like mineI got my #20 in the mail today from RichMan. I'm surprised at the speed of the shipping from Hawaii! And, for lack of a better term, the #20 is adorable, but also very classy looking. I guess I didn't really realize just how small mods would be. Looking in the holes so I could see the switch I can see how it can be a concern of that little spring getting welded to the top pin, especially if using low Ohm coils.
After I get some batteries, a fuse, and my AGA-T2 I'll play a bit, and then think about modding up a new switch. I have some access to a CNC milling machine so I may be able to cut/design a new delrin or nylon switch housing and play around. I'll keep the thread/the social group up to date when I get some time for that.
Quick question: Will running the AGA-T2 with a "u" silica wick work alright on a Mech to get started, or should I just head toward getting some mesh wicks?
I've not tried the AGA with a silica U wick, but I've seen it posted on the forum by members happy with the results. I think more and more are going to Nextel and Ekowool, though.
Well I just got my #20 in the mail today from vaportekusa and I just ordered it on Friday I will be ordering from them again,now for the
#20 I am pleased it works well with the AGA T with a 1.3 ohm very pleased with it.
#20 I am pleased it works well with the AGA T with a 1.3 ohm very pleased with it.
I don't think so, since the color change is caused by extreme heat rather than tarnish from oxidation that happens with brass and other non-ferrous metals. But this is my first attempt, so time will tell!
I tried following the directions in this very helpful post to disassemble my #20 switch. However, I can not for the life of me get the pin thingie to come out.
I tried jewelry needle nose pliers, regular needle nose pliers and small needle nose vise grips. I also tried inserting a small screwdriver into the side hole to see if I could leverage the pin thingie out. The pin would move back and forth quite easily but wouldn't budge as far as coming out.
Does anyone have any ideas for how I might get my #20's switch out?
I tried jewelry needle nose pliers, regular needle nose pliers and small needle nose vise grips. I also tried inserting a small screwdriver into the side hole to see if I could leverage the pin thingie out. The pin would move back and forth quite easily but wouldn't budge as far as coming out.
Does anyone have any ideas for how I might get my #20's switch out?
^^^^^^Remove the bottom Pin FIRST, Then push the top pin out from the bottom. Take a small screwdriver (or something that wont damage anything) and push the firing pin out. From the inside out. Works much better and you wont bugger up the end of the firing pin that the button has to re-attach to.
I tried following the directions in this very helpful post to disassemble my #20 switch. However, I can not for the life of me get the pin thingie to come out.
I tried jewelry needle nose pliers, regular needle nose pliers and small needle nose vise grips. I also tried inserting a small screwdriver into the side hole to see if I could leverage the pin thingie out. The pin would move back and forth quite easily but wouldn't budge as far as coming out.
Does anyone have any ideas for how I might get my #20's switch out?
What worked well for me was twisting a corkscrew through the hole where the bottom pin fits and pushing at the derlin plug.
Be very careful with the tip of the firing pin that's press fit to the button. If you damage it you'll have a button that's prone to pop off
Are any of the 18350's on Fasttech worthwhile? http://www.fasttech.com/products/1420/10002173/1156600-trustfire-protected-18350-37v-1200mah-rechargeable
Stay away from Trustfire. You should buy a IMR battery. Be it, Panisonic, AW, EFEST, Etc. Also, Avoid the >>>"EH" IMR's<<< They suck!!
the button is making contact, that's not the problem (if it was I wouldn't have been able to complete the circuit by holding copper wire to the lock ring and the tube and there would be no gap between the button and the lock ring when it is pressed). The problem is the JBWeld is insulating the switch assembly from the tube.
Yeah I would imagine it will stand up to heat pretty well, but what do I know.. I thought the stuff was conductive
I may try to break the seal and remove the switch. I am hoping to find a way to connect the switch threading on the inside to the inside of the tube without removing the switch again.
Solder a wire from the switch threads to the body. Or you could take a flame to the jb weld, it should soften it up.
Edit: Just caught up, saw this was covered.
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Here's my #8 and original aga-t. The aga had ugly knurling so I got rid of the knurling a while ago. I've had the #8 for a few weeks now and I just got around to removing the chrome on the end caps last night. Only took about 20 - 30 mins. All I used was 220 sandpaper, first dry, then wet. The caps are perfectly flush with the tubes now and I think it looks way better. When I first got it I sanded down all the contacts and used a bent paperclip to shorten the button throw. Im not sure whats up with the spring though, I sanded the heck out of it and can't find any brass. This one has the small Sigelei logo above the button. Does anybody know what kind of spring came with it? Its funny how the Sigelei logo looks awfully similar to the Samsung logo, I cant wait to get my Sig flat screen!!
I got a Sigelei #20 in the mail today... wasn't quite what I had expected. It has the new silver colored button, which I knew after I bought it. No big deal I guess, even though Id rather have the brass button. One thing I definitely didn't expect was the big "on" "off" engraving on either side of the firing button and also two big ... holes on each side of the top cap. I've got no idea what the big ... holes are for, maybe someone can help me out there. I seem to remember pictures of the #20 without the "on" "off" writing and without the holes on the sides of the cap... not sure if I saw the pictures wrong, or if Sigelei changed things over time.
So, Im wondering what I can do to mod this thing... Im sure people went over a few things, but the thread is so long I didn't get time to get thought it all. I want to mod it so that my attys will sit flush with the top of the mod. I use RBA's that get air from the side of the caps, so I don't care about blocking off the mods air flow. With my smoketech Natural mod, it also had a raised 510 section that kept attys from sitting flush. What I did with that was sand it down so it was flat with the top of the mod. I'm wondering if that's what people are doing with the #20, or if they are getting things to sit flush another way.
Also, I noticed that the bottom of the pin doesn't have a line in it to place a screw driver in there to adjust it (like most other mods out today, including the Sigelei #8)... not sure what that's all about. Do you just have to grab a pair of pliers and twist it to adjust the pin? Or am I missing something here.
I have attached pictures of the cap and pin thats in my #20. Thanks for the help guys.
So, Im wondering what I can do to mod this thing... Im sure people went over a few things, but the thread is so long I didn't get time to get thought it all. I want to mod it so that my attys will sit flush with the top of the mod. I use RBA's that get air from the side of the caps, so I don't care about blocking off the mods air flow. With my smoketech Natural mod, it also had a raised 510 section that kept attys from sitting flush. What I did with that was sand it down so it was flat with the top of the mod. I'm wondering if that's what people are doing with the #20, or if they are getting things to sit flush another way.
Also, I noticed that the bottom of the pin doesn't have a line in it to place a screw driver in there to adjust it (like most other mods out today, including the Sigelei #8)... not sure what that's all about. Do you just have to grab a pair of pliers and twist it to adjust the pin? Or am I missing something here.
I have attached pictures of the cap and pin thats in my #20. Thanks for the help guys.
Ive been completely threw the #20, and honestly, the best thing you can do for it is to not mod anything. Other than maybe a flush mount mod.
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After looking my #20 over, but not actually using it yet (waiting on my AGA-T2 and batteries), the only thing I would mess without of the box is getting the atty to sit flush.
Maybe someone can point you to the dissasembly instructions, or even the flush mod instructions. But basically...
-Spin out the atty connector
-Remove delrin washer (should fall out)
-pull pin out of the bottom delrin
-Push top pin out via the lower pin hole OR carefully pull the top pin out leaving the bottom pin in place.
-Countersink the delrin on the top of the button assembly to allow the atty connector and the pin to sit lower.
-Trim the "wings" off the atty connector
-Reassemble, perhaps leaving out the delrin washer (?)
I'm going to get mine working and try it out before I move on to modding it.
Maybe someone can point you to the dissasembly instructions, or even the flush mod instructions. But basically...
-Spin out the atty connector
-Remove delrin washer (should fall out)
-pull pin out of the bottom delrin
-Push top pin out via the lower pin hole OR carefully pull the top pin out leaving the bottom pin in place.
-Countersink the delrin on the top of the button assembly to allow the atty connector and the pin to sit lower.
-Trim the "wings" off the atty connector
-Reassemble, perhaps leaving out the delrin washer (?)
I'm going to get mine working and try it out before I move on to modding it.
Thanks so much for all the help. I very much agree that it was easier to remove the bottom center post and the top one before tackling getting out the plastic switch housing and that pin thingie. I've got my fingers crossed that I didn't ruin the pin trying to get it out from the front with the pliers.
Unfortunately, once I got the switch bits and pieces removed the larger plastic housing was in no mood to budge. Trying to leverage it out with a flat tip screwdriver through the switch hole didn't get the job done. (After I finally got the plastic piece out I discovered that some really jagged metal on the backside of one of those holes in the side of the top was responsible for holding the plastic piece hostage.)
It looked like I needed a 13/16" hole in something solid to hold the metal part of the #20 top so it would be possible to pound out the plastic center part. I didn't have a 13/16" drill bit so I had to make do with cutting up an acetate sheet into little squares with holes in them with my electronic cutter. Then I glued the acetate pieces all together. However, I think the photos give a good idea of how the same approach would work by drilling a hole in a small piece of wood.
Once the plastic piece was partially out I could use a flat head screw driver through the switch hole to leverage the plastic piece the rest of the way out.
Yea, getting attys to sit flush is the main thing i want. What are the "flush mod instructions" your talking about? I'm hoping its a detailed post somwhere with pictures on how to do it.
I can give it a shot with your instructions, but if theres a more detailed guide id feel more comfortable doing it that way.
Thanks for the response.
One other thing you'll need to do if file down the 510 top pin to keep the same gap inside the switch once it's countersunk.
Thanks so much for all the help. I very much agree that it was easier to remove the bottom center post and the top one before tackling getting out the plastic switch housing and that pin thingie. I've got my fingers crossed that I didn't ruin the pin trying to get it out from the front with the pliers.
Unfortunately, once I got the switch bits and pieces removed the larger plastic housing was in no mood to budge. Trying to leverage it out with a flat tip screwdriver through the switch hole didn't get the job done. (After I finally got the plastic piece out I discovered that some really jagged metal on the backside of one of those holes in the side of the top was responsible for holding the plastic piece hostage.)
It looked like I needed a 13/16" hole in something solid to hold the metal part of the #20 top so it would be possible to pound out the plastic center part. I didn't have a 13/16" drill bit so I had to make do with cutting up an acetate sheet into little squares with holes in them with my electronic cutter. Then I glued the acetate pieces all together. However, I think the photos give a good idea of how the same approach would work by drilling a hole in a small piece of wood.
Once the plastic piece was partially out I could use a flat head screw driver through the switch hole to leverage the plastic piece the rest of the way out.
I used a similar approach to get the derlin housing out of the metal. I set the top cap on the bottom tube of the mod without the tele tube inside, zipped a little tape around it, and tapped it out with a hammer and a big wooden dowel.
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