Sigelei Mechnical Mods

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gbojar

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Well now that I have bought (and sold most of) almost all of the sigelei mechanical mods that were released, I must say the sigelei #8 is the best performer out of the box. The Sigelei #8 was my first of the 6 or 7 I have owned and required the least amount of modifications to it. It is definitely the one I would recommend as a first to others, and here is a very informative Sigelei article that may be of interest to new and experienced alike.
 

aussiedog61

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I was torn between the two, but I'd rather have the #19 with the nzonic head and just mod the mod :) . Since having the K100 (and still loving it) I am a fan of bottom button firing. Seems like a cleaner look to me. The reviews that I have read of the #8 do seem to be pretty good though. Just personal preference.
 

TroyDestroy

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Wow the 99 is crazy looking. A mix between 8/19/and theit provari looking telescope.

Sent from my LGL86C using Tapatalk 2

i just want that bottom switch. looks like it could make for a very short mod... the 8/13 switched are further up and add to the length, this would have to have the pin and switch all in the bottom cap... looks interesting. But, give it to me with a smooth body and #8 flat top cap please :)
 

IsLanDr671

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This one works great. The only change to the stock switch is removal of the magnet and an addition of a wire. The spring is still stiff, so that would be an optional change out if you like a feathery touch, but the button travel distance is now only a mm or two. With this fix and removal of the top magnet and a new brass bolt postive pin with oring, I now get a .32v drop on a .7ohm coil on an RSST.

All credit for this fix goes to Studiovap. (Master Modder). After I did his fix, I decided to re-do and take a few pics to share them, it works that well.

Using a braided copper 16g wire. Formed an oversized loop that fits a very convenient existing gap between the plastic insulator and primary switch ring:
sig19buttonfixa.jpg


With the locking ring in place and fully screwed on, the wire should be secured (change wire gauge if needed):
sig19buttonfixb.jpg


Removed the locking ring for a bit of extra work room and with the brass pole in place, twist wire up and wrap around the pole threads:
sig19buttonfixc.jpg


Replace locking ring:
sig19buttonfixd.jpg


Insert spring:
sig19buttonfixe.jpg


When you screw the button onto the brass pole, it will compress and secure the wire at the brass pole thread. This also gives the brass pole extra height to offset the removal of the magnet.

Switch in normal resting position:
sig19buttonfixf.jpg


Switch in fully compressed pulse position:
sig19buttonfixg.jpg


wow thanks for this tip. now my #19 is hitting like a beast no more hot button and haven't had a misfire in a week even with the magnet still on it, thanks again


Anton
 

Stoneface

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I know that very early on in this thread the 13a was being discussed. Any thoughts on the 13a from anyone that has had one for a while?
In the beginning, some of us were posting after we had gotten the 13b (similar to the 69 mod) in a CoOp. It didn't fire consistently, so our host Michliu, got Sigelei to send us replacement parts to turn it into the 13a (bottom cap, switch, and bottom post). I've still been toying with the 13b to try to get it to work in both thumb button and pinky button configurations, but I haven't quite figured it out yet. I work on it for a few days and then set it aside in frustration. One of these days....
 

Stoneface

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Yes, I have read about the 13b issues. But it looks like some people here had the 13a as well. I'm looking at a 13a to go with my 8 and 21a.
From what I remember once our 13b was turned into a 13a with the parts, it was a reliable mod. The post in the bottom cap is chromed, and many sanded the chrome off. The 8 gets more nods of approval than the 13a though.
 
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