Sigelei Mechnical Mods
- Thread starter pillowking
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
hi everyone, i opened this thread http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/431237-identify-my-sigelei-please.html
but I might be better off finding someone who might be able to answer my question in this thread.
Can anyone identify this version of the #13 please? It doesn't seem to be like any other switch pictured in this thread for the 13.
THanks!
but I might be better off finding someone who might be able to answer my question in this thread.
Can anyone identify this version of the #13 please? It doesn't seem to be like any other switch pictured in this thread for the 13.
THanks!
It looks like the 13b telescopic...the black insert with that spring looks like what we got with the 13b anyway. Is the switch housing isolated from the body with a plastic or delrin insulator? If so, it is the 13b.
EDIT: The pics on the other thread were better...You definitely have the second version of the 13b. The switch pin is supposed to push that spring over and contact the positive pin to fire the mod. A couple of the guys from our CoOp have said that the spring/contact set up you have is dangerous. One of them will chime in with specifics. I don't want to tell you the wrong thing....
Last edited:
the switch housing isn't plastic, but the end of the inside plunger has a plastic cap on it. The circuit is completed when the spring sitting on the derlin insulator on the end cap is depressed on the side.
spring to firing pin, under the battery, ermmm dose not sound good. Once the spring sticks, or is deformed = problem. I would be very careful with that set up. Just this weekend, pop'd 2 hot springs in the bottom of my #8 Sig. Oddy clone was fine on other devices, just not my mech.I am now using a safety fuse on fresh rebuilds on a mech. I do not need a metal Groove in my hands.
Yes, I know...you can do some reading from the beginning of this thread to see what is wrong with that spring design. Start with the following post and move forward: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...78-sigelei-mechnical-mods-50.html#post9383660
On my RBA builds I check the resistance with my multimeter, then put it on a Vamo and check the resistance with the Vamo. If I get a consistent reading between those devices with no ohm float (fluctuation), I put it on my #8 and have a vape. I don't use a kick or fuse.
Does this seem like a reasonable and safe routine?
The only thing that has collapsed a spring on my #8 was a freaking Kanger Protank of all things.
It sounds like a reasonable and safe routine to me...well, unless something shifts in a bad way while it's on your mech. I would rather use a fuse to be safe, personally. I've read a few stories about venting batteries and hot mods so call me chicken
safe always sounds good. I just thought, since my EVic and vamo get a good reading on the ODDY, the #8 would be fine. After getting a hot button and the bottom spring collapsing... Must be a short, only when on my #8. Even tried SG-1 adapter = same short hot spring result. ODDY clone working great on my BOLT right now, i don't care.
HAPPY FATHERS DAY!!!!!!
It sounds like a reasonable and safe routine to me...well, unless something shifts in a bad way while it's on your mech. I would rather use a fuse to be safe, personally. I've read a few stories about venting batteries and hot mods so call me chicken
Point taken. Ummm... a venting battery didn't have anything to do with that stone face your sporting, right??
Sounds exactly like the situation I had with that Protank. I was using it on two different Vamos, then put it on the #8 and collapsed the spring.
I was actually pretty happy that the spring collapsed like it is supposed to.
LOL, no that's just lifePoint taken. Ummm... a venting battery didn't have anything to do with that stone face your sporting, right??
Chiming in. I ran the #13b coop and all the issues that were reported to me were in the original spring design. The one you have is likely the new design based on the coops input, however, the top spring you have is still prone to the one failure that I believe convinced Sigelei to send us new #8 bottom caps and switches. I had 2 cases of sparks coming off of the spring. I think this was caused by loose springs (equivalent to your top spring) which would then compress beyond the lip on that black delrin cap, resulting in a runaway connection (our bottom post pins went all the way and touched the metal in the bottom cap). I have not heard of any incidents after the coop completed, but we lucky ones may have been the only ones to get that first run.
Yes, thanks Michliu! I guess I'll keep an eye on the mod for safety issues. It does occasionally misfire, but nothing to get upset about. I did figure out how to flip it to a top button, and I have to say that I like it in this configuration.
Sig #20 with brass button $31 in stock. Looks like you can get either brass or stainless button, both in stock. http://.........blogspot.com/2013/05/whats-that-sigelei-20-in-stock.html
Last edited:
LOL, instead of "glutton for punishment," consider it a great mod adventure
- Status
Similar threads
