Sigelei Mechnical Mods

[chadsmo]

Can someone please let me know if this is the right method for testing voltage drop , as I've seen this done in a video on YouTube. Maybe they were wrong too?

What I did was take my positive on my multimeter and put it on the 510 connection then I grounded my negative on the mods body and pressed the fire button ? Correct ?

 

[gdeal]

Vdrop should be measured underload. Put the positive on the atty post, the negative on the atty base screw, fire the mod, take the reading. Just to note, Vdrop on the same mod changes with different resistance coils.

 

[Porksmuggler]

Can someone please let me know if this is the right method for testing voltage drop , as I've seen this done in a video on YouTube. Maybe they were wrong too?

What I did was take my positive on my multimeter and put it on the 510 connection then I grounded my negative on the mods body and pressed the fire button ? Correct ?

drop is measured under load. 510 to body does nothing, and is where 99% of the "I've got zero drop" comments come from.

Attach a RBA/RDA with exposed posts, and a coil set up, then measure across the terminals, while firing.

This is the voltage at the coil, the drop is the difference between this measurement and the measurement across just the battery.

The drop tells you how much resistance is in the rest of the circuit (mod body, mod contacts, and internal battery).

 

[chadsmo]

Attach a RBD/RDA with exposed posts, and a coil set up, then measure across the terminals, while firing.

This is the voltage at the coil, the drop is the difference between this measurement and the measurement across just the battery.

Oh yeah, that makes perfect sense actually , I'll use my IGO-L later this evening. Thanks. I knew you had to measure under load too, just couldn't think of a way to do it and an RDA is perfect, and I have like 5 of them I don't know why I didn't think of it.

 

[Lhartman89]

Namvet, which tube did you get? I got the 18650 tube, it would be nice if they would sell the tubes alone.

Vaportek is selling the tubes only for $7.99 I think.

 

[Porksmuggler]

Oh yeah, that makes perfect sense actually , I'll use my IGO-L later this evening. Thanks. I knew you had to measure under load too, just couldn't think of a way to do it and an RDA is perfect, and I have like 5 of them I don't know why I didn't think of it.

If you have more than one IGO-L, maybe even try a couple different ohm coils, to get a sense of how the v drop increases as the coil resistance goes down. Resistors in series (the coil vs all other points of resistance) gets to a point of diminishing returns with low enough sub ohms, unless you just like using the mod as a hand warmer also.

 

[chadsmo]

I have two, one of them is at .9 and one at about 1.2 I think. My other RDAs aren't as good for these purposes. Thanks.

 

[chadsmo]

So I was totally wrong and I guess my IGOs are a little higher.

This is with my new 13a I just got a few days ago.

Battery 4.18
3.9 at coil with a 1.7 ohm

All that's a .28 drop I guess. Is that acceptable in the grand scheme of things or are we aiming for a lower drop than that. I havnt tested it at a lower ohm yet. I guess ideally a drop of nothing is preferred eh lol.

 

[shiver905]

I was in the market for a #8,
I just ordered one.

I was just about to order a back up and noticed an 8W,

Im wondering if its a revision of the #8 (dude to it needs a few mods to get it working as it should)


Also I was wondering if the Sigelei Kick Clone will fit in the #8 and the #8w. with a 18350 batt or a 18650 Batt.
(i really like it in its shorter mode)

 

[chadsmo]

There's a little ledge on the delrin insert that keeps the spring from sliding down far enough to touch the top of the negative post. The switch hits the part of the spring which is wider than the post, pushing it against the brass post to complete the connection. I sanded it with 220 and the spring is not brass. Maybe this pic will help explain what I mean, the switch makes contact where the arrow is:

View attachment 204231

Sorry to flood this thread with posts, but as I'm reading back I see stuff and want to comment on it. My new 13a has this exact same switch. I was thinking the same thing as another post I saw thinking that maybe the spring will move on me and connect with the center post and make the mod fire. So far it hasn't done it but that doesn't mean that it won't. I've been pondering how to fix this and I have a few ideas, but if anyone has a sure fire way to make it better then I'm all ears on that one.

 

[Porksmuggler]

Sorry to flood this thread with posts, but as I'm reading back I see stuff and want to comment on it. My new 13a has this exact same switch. I was thinking the same thing as another post I saw thinking that maybe the spring will move on me and connect with the center post and make the mod fire. So far it hasn't done it but that doesn't mean that it won't. I've been pondering how to fix this and I have a few ideas, but if anyone has a sure fire way to make it better then I'm all ears on that one.

The spring touching the center post won't cause it to fire. The circuit is battery top to 510 to RDA positive to coil to RDA threads to body to pressed switch to spring to battery bottom. The bottom post is isolated from the bottom cap by the delrin below the spring.

.28 is respectable for 1.7ohms, and it also depends on the age/condition of the battery.

 

[chadsmo]

The spring touching the center post won't cause it to fire. The circuit is battery top to 510 to RDA positive to coil to RDA threads to body to pressed switch to spring to battery bottom. The bottom post is isolated from the bottom cap by the delrin below the spring.

.28 is respectable for 1.7ohms, and it also depends on the age/condition of the battery.

My bottom post actually isn't insulated, it's brass on metal, I'm gonna try to figure something out on that tomorrow I think. I did notice in pictures of 8s that there was an insulator there.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v655/madchad/Photo7-16-2013110417PM.jpg

 

[Schnarph]

I modded my #20 V2 a few days ago, I should have reported that in here since I asked about it so many times. No extra parts needed, only material to remove. No more sketchy spring on the bottom pin, flush mount top and all is well. The firing button still locks "off" when I want it to.I did buy a copper helix hot spring from Avid, just for added safety plus it is much beefier. Voltage drop with a new, freshly charge Efest 2600MAH IMR and a 1.5 ohm coil is 0.50v, not great but not too bad either. I built my own mod out copper pipe and a momentary switch: same battery and atty, voltage drop is 0.30v! I triple checked these results on both mods, I even used a different 1.5 ohm atty.

I'm pretty interested in the #8w (not too fond of telescoping mods), but I'm going to wait until one of you folks gets one and reports your findings on voltage drop and button design. No more Sigelei pre-orders for me, thanks.

 

[NamVet68]

Namvet, which tube did you get? I got the 18650 tube, it would be nice if they would sell the tubes alone.

I ordered the 18350 flavor, but they are also offering the 18650 tube separately (looks like on another pre-order), so I signed up for one of those also....the waiting never ends.

 

[Porksmuggler]

My bottom post actually isn't insulated, it's brass on metal, I'm gonna try to figure something out on that tomorrow I think. I did notice in pictures of 8s that there was an insulator there.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v655/madchad/Photo7-16-2013110417PM.jpg

Okay, wow, that's not a good design, I swear I saw other pics of the 13a had delrin like the 8.

 

[Lhartman89]

Okay, wow, that's not a good design, I swear I saw other pics of the 13a had delrin like the 8.

The reason they got rid of the plastic insulator and went with the brass one is because with the old design you relied on a tiny little spring to make the connection from the neg post to the bottom cap. I think they did this to try and get rid of the large voltage drop it originally had.

Here is a pic of my #13B that was the first version. Notice the spring between the bottom cap and derlin insulator.

 

[michliu]

Okay, wow, that's not a good design, I swear I saw other pics of the 13a had delrin like the 8.

The switch and caps on the #13a are exactly like the #8. It is the #13b that is the fiasco. I believe the image is what Sigelei tried to send the #13 coop to replace the pieces Lhartman89 just posted. Between the #13b and the #20, the switch designers at Sigelei should be fired.

 

[Porksmuggler]

The switch and caps on the #13a are exactly like the #8. It is the #13b that is the fiasco. I believe the image is what Sigelei tried to send the #13 coop to replace the pieces Lhartman89 just posted. Between the #13b and the #20, the switch designers at Sigelei should be fired.

chadsmo said his is a 13a, and that is definitely not the setup in the 8, not by a long shot.

 

[sk8mdw]

chadsmo said his is a 13a, and that is definitely not the setup in the 8, not by a long shot.

It's also not anything like my 13a.

 

[Porksmuggler]

It's also not anything like my 13a.

awesome, so the 13a is a grab bag, or chadsmo really has a 13b.

/I'll stick to the #8 and #19e then...