Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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Solid brass firing pin for the #19
http://www.celticvapes.co.uk/Segelei_solid_brass_firing_pin_x_1/p2086842_10150530.aspx
No problem
I just took out all the contacts in the #23 to do a little sanding and figured I'd share some pictures of the internals. The design is really simple and seems pretty robust. It's nice that all the contacts are just slotted brass screws, which makes it really easy to disassemble. No press fits to pull out for the most part. I think the button is pressed in, and I didn't try taking that out because I don't know for sure. It may be threaded. Anyway, lots of brass that polished up nice.
Just a note, if you get one and want to take it apart, be really careful not to cross-thread while turning the screws into the plastic insulator material (probably delrin). Also do not over-tighten, snug is all you need.
Just an overview:
View attachment 232733
The button pushes a brass post that is ground to a point. The screws go in as shown, and the pointed pin touches the ends of them simultaneously to close the circuit.
The 510 connector pin is just another brass screw. This could easily be sanded down to get a closer-to-flush mount with some atomizers.
Just a note, if you get one and want to take it apart, be really careful not to cross-thread while turning the screws into the plastic insulator material (probably delrin). Also do not over-tighten, snug is all you need.
Just an overview:
View attachment 232733
The button pushes a brass post that is ground to a point. The screws go in as shown, and the pointed pin touches the ends of them simultaneously to close the circuit.
The 510 connector pin is just another brass screw. This could easily be sanded down to get a closer-to-flush mount with some atomizers.
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the 8w really packs a punch after a little tinkerin'. dual coil 1 ohm.
the top cap had to go X| can't stand it
the top cap had to go X| can't stand it
Tried that....then the positive pin is too short to make contact with my RBAs....
No problem, that's minor, I'm still fighting with getting the switch apart..
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How did you delete the large top cap? Also, that is a nice looking drip tip you got there.
Please keep us updated with the switch. Mine's been working well - far better than my 19s. I do want to get inside though.
Will do.... I've given up for the night..just going to soak it in alcohol overnight since a couple of others were successful using it for the #19 switches.
The switch seemed to work pretty well..better than my original 19a, but I think with a little tinkering, it can be a lot better..
A little soak in alcohol will do us both good (the switch & me too)
Mañana...
Not as far as I can tell but I haven't tried to open the switch yet.
Anybody know any coupon codes for ExhaleVapors?
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Thanks, the driptip is an engraved .7 tip by Ghost Modder. I'm using the SG-1 by Fusions Mods instead of the 8w uppers.
You're going to love this one... coupon code DELICIOUS gets you 16% off!!!
Thank you very much!
Ordered my Sigelei 8w. I Hear it is pretty good.
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So I figured I'd just post this here. I'm sort of inexperienced with low resistance vaping and I've made a .6 ish leaning to .7 ohm dual coil in my Nimbus. Are my EFEST IMRs up to the task with their amp limit ?
I'm not a battery expert at all, but I've seen warnings of using Efest 18350s with sub-ohm coils since the demand on the battery exceeds the discharge rating. You might be okay with 18650s.
At full charge (4.2 v on a fresh battery) you are pulling 6 amps. At 3.7 v you are pulling about 5.2 amps. The effest 18650's are rated for 10 amps (per google, not their website) so you are "safe" but that does start to get into the low range. A short or anything like that could put you over the limit.
Yeah I've got an OHMs law calculator on my phone so I knew that was pushing about 6.5 amps on a fresh charge. Curious though if the voltage drop plays in to that though? So is it really closer to 3.7 which keeps it closer to 6 amps. I was having issues finding the AMP limit on the 350s. I've got a 2c safety fuse that I've actually never used but I can toss that in there with the 350. If the 650 has a 10amp drain I'm not too worried about that.
OK...got the 8w switch apart after an all-night soak in various solvents (Hoppes#9, Kroil, and finally Alchohol) and whacking it again with my brass hammer (just for tradition). Finally came apart using a needle-nose and padded vice-grips. Chewed up the fire button and the button post just a little, but nothing I can't live with. A little polishing will take most of the goobers off the edge of the switch, or I might just knurl it.
The threads on the center post were filled with some nasty nasty glue...even when it started giving way, it was still a bear to keep unscrewing the switch until I got it totally out. I even thought it wasn't working until I looked carefully and saw that the fire button was not turning as I was unscrewing the post with the needle-nose vice-grips. It was still very difficult to turn...I almost thought I was going to break the threads off of the post. I can't figure out why they would put nice finger grooves on that post if you can't use your fingers to unscrew it.... Someone at Sigelei must have a partner in the glue business.....
To be honest, if you don't mind the long/stiff button throw on this thing, or want to put a softer spring in it, there's not much reason to take the switch apart....not really anything in there that needs polishing - it hits pretty well right out of the box. I might play around with a few things (those gold ring-magnets are a perfect fit ), but JMHO...no need to butcher this one.
In 18350 mode, it's a nice little pocket rocket (next to an antique 10 Ga shotgun shell).
Nice little mechanical for the money...can't wait until I get my 18650 tube so I can try it with an 18500 & a Kick.
The threads on the center post were filled with some nasty nasty glue...even when it started giving way, it was still a bear to keep unscrewing the switch until I got it totally out. I even thought it wasn't working until I looked carefully and saw that the fire button was not turning as I was unscrewing the post with the needle-nose vice-grips. It was still very difficult to turn...I almost thought I was going to break the threads off of the post. I can't figure out why they would put nice finger grooves on that post if you can't use your fingers to unscrew it.... Someone at Sigelei must have a partner in the glue business.....
To be honest, if you don't mind the long/stiff button throw on this thing, or want to put a softer spring in it, there's not much reason to take the switch apart....not really anything in there that needs polishing - it hits pretty well right out of the box. I might play around with a few things (those gold ring-magnets are a perfect fit
), but JMHO...no need to butcher this one.
In 18350 mode, it's a nice little pocket rocket (next to an antique 10 Ga shotgun shell).
Nice little mechanical for the money...can't wait until I get my 18650 tube so I can try it with an 18500 & a Kick.
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